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I personally have not used that product but the reviews look good. I've used a good bit of POR15 before with good results and they have a chassis black as well. The paint in your link looks like a copy of the POR15 stuff. So not sure you can go wrong with either.

I've also used the Raptor bedliner kits as well with good results. And its extreemly durable. The only issue is you will still need to treat the rusty areas before you apply the bed liner. No big deal I'll brush a little POR15 over the rusty areas before the bedliner. The bedliner does hide more stuff, well I guess hide is a bad word it gives a uniform texture look to the bottom side much like the stonegaurd did on the rockers of cars in the late 80's and 90's.
Here latley its been my go to for undersides of projects.

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I will also suggest for quick I used the VHT Epoxy spray paint on the axles, suspension and frame of my pickup. And it has shocked me on how well it has held up. For a cheap rattle can. From what I have researched the VHT rollbar and chassis paint is the same as the Epoxy just different labels if you have trouble finding one or the other.


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POR-15 and this copy DOES NOT TREAT RUST. This is a moisture cured urethane coating. ITS PAINT. All you do is cover the rust for awhile and maybe slow it until the coating fails and then rust that would have been easy to clean and remove becomes panel/part replacement.
Remove the rust if you need to, then use a 2 part epoxy over it for the best durability and protection from further rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That makes sense about POR15(and similiar products), there is no way a paint could magically cure rust. I think I am going to go with an epoxy. What 2 part epoxy would be good to use? I'll get some cans of the VHT for touch up. The frame on that Ram looks great!

I am hopefully going to have the cab off of my truck in the next few weeks doing head studs. I am also going to paint the frame and bottom of the cab while I am doing it. I'm also going to have the bed off to replace it, the truck was wrecked when I got it. I'm going to use raptor liner in the bed. I may use it on the underside of the cab too.
 

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This is the brand I use and recommend for epoxy as well as the other products they sell.
SouthernPolyurethanes
Read through the tech manuals before spraying. It mixes 50/50 so you need 1 quart color to 1 quart activator. I would spray 2 coats for best protection then you have up to 7 days to spray bed liner over it without the need to sand it. The look of sprayed black SPI epoxy is about the same as the frame pictures above. You can even brush it on if you needed.
You can buy a cheap Harbor Freight purple gun to spray it and just throw it away after.
Most DIY bed liners available today are urethane based and just don't have the durability or adhesion like epoxy. So doing epoxy first then spray bed liner over it will give you much better results. I've seen how Raptor liner will scrape off of a truck bed when sprayed on just a sanded surface.
 

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This is the brand I use and recommend for epoxy as well as the other products they sell.
SouthernPolyurethanes
Read through the tech manuals before spraying. It mixes 50/50 so you need 1 quart color to 1 quart activator. I would spray 2 coats for best protection then you have up to 7 days to spray bed liner over it without the need to sand it. The look of sprayed black SPI epoxy is about the same as the frame pictures above. You can even brush it on if you needed.
You can buy a cheap Harbor Freight purple gun to spray it and just throw it away after.
Most DIY bed liners available today are urethane based and just don't have the durability or adhesion like epoxy. So doing epoxy first then spray bed liner over it will give you much better results. I've seen how Raptor liner will scrape off of a truck bed when sprayed on just a sanded surface.
My bad I thought you were just looking for a quickie on the bottom of something.I should have done a better job asking question. I completley agree with mustang408 on the 2k epoxy and the southernpoly stuff. Southern poly epoxy is the only stuff I will use for restoration work. It is alot like the original DP90 until they reformulated it. Nothing compares to adhesive properties when properly used.
Make sure you read the instructions well it is very sensitive to aplying in cold tempature. So make sure you can keep the metal temp of what ever you are painting 65deg or better for 24hrs otherwise it will go dormant and you risk it sticking to the base metal.
The other great thing about the southern poly stuff is anytime you have a question you talk directly to the owner.


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Discussion Starter #9
This is the brand I use and recommend for epoxy as well as the other products they sell.
SouthernPolyurethanes
Read through the tech manuals before spraying. It mixes 50/50 so you need 1 quart color to 1 quart activator. I would spray 2 coats for best protection then you have up to 7 days to spray bed liner over it without the need to sand it. The look of sprayed black SPI epoxy is about the same as the frame pictures above. You can even brush it on if you needed.
You can buy a cheap Harbor Freight purple gun to spray it and just throw it away after.
Most DIY bed liners available today are urethane based and just don't have the durability or adhesion like epoxy. So doing epoxy first then spray bed liner over it will give you much better results. I've seen how Raptor liner will scrape off of a truck bed when sprayed on just a sanded surface.
Thanks, I'll give Southern Poly a call Monday to see who carries it in my area. I'll read the tech manual for it and I will do 2 coats.

I have a HF gun that I use to paint tractor implements or small things. I think I have a couple of new ones laying around too.

When I do my truck bed, I'll use the southern poly epoxy too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My bad I thought you were just looking for a quickie on the bottom of something.I should have done a better job asking question. I completley agree with mustang408 on the 2k epoxy and the southernpoly stuff. Southern poly epoxy is the only stuff I will use for restoration work. It is alot like the original DP90 until they reformulated it. Nothing compares to adhesive properties when properly used.
Make sure you read the instructions well it is very sensitive to aplying in cold tempature. So make sure you can keep the metal temp of what ever you are painting 65deg or better for 24hrs otherwise it will go dormant and you risk it sticking to the base metal.
The other great thing about the southern poly stuff is anytime you have a question you talk directly to the owner.


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I wasn't sure what I wanted myself. I am going to have the engine and trans out of my car this winter. I am also doing some rear suspension work. Then I want to do new brake and fuel lines. So now is the time to paint the underside of the car to preserve it. It will be a semi restoration I guess. Plus, I found out about the VHT expoy that I'm sure I'll use on some future project.

The garage is heated. I also have a torpedo heater that I can put under the car to keep it warm. Thanks for the help.
 

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My car is at the shop getting looked over. I have everything stripped but the engine bay (might let them go ahead and do it too).

I'm having them paint the undercarriage. I just had a 1 piece floor pan put in for the cabin area. The thing looks beautiful! The rest of the undercarriage....Not so much.

I asked them to media blast the old metal and let me know how bad the rust is. The rear 1 piece floor pan may be in my near future.



I'm going to blast it and epoxy it. After that, I really don't know if I want to use Raptor or another paint. I plan to use Raptor, or something similar, in the wheel wells for those rocks. Any advice on Raptor vs Paint? Pros and Cons to each? Again, the bottom will be blasted and epoxied first because THIS CAR WILL NOT RUST DAMN IT!
 

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My car is at the shop getting looked over. I have everything stripped but the engine bay (might let them go ahead and do it too).

I'm having them paint the undercarriage. I just had a 1 piece floor pan put in for the cabin area. The thing looks beautiful! The rest of the undercarriage....Not so much.

I asked them to media blast the old metal and let me know how bad the rust is. The rear 1 piece floor pan may be in my near future.



I'm going to blast it and epoxy it. After that, I really don't know if I want to use Raptor or another paint. I plan to use Raptor, or something similar, in the wheel wells for those rocks. Any advice on Raptor vs Paint? Pros and Cons to each? Again, the bottom will be blasted and epoxied first because THIS CAR WILL NOT RUST DAMN IT!
I have both. It depends on what you want to do with the car? The car I have that is finished on the bottom painted body color took a lot of prep work to look good and I find myself always stressing about keeping it clean. But when its cleaned up it looks great.
The one that I put the Raptor on also looks great but in a more useable way if that makes sense. Plus you dont have to worry about cleaning up and detailing every weld and seam the Raptor will cover up some stuff and be more forgiving while still looking kind of OEM. Plus its very durable. When it gets a little dirty ill spray it down with some simplegreen and hose or power wash it off and it back to looking new.

You would be supprised how many high end custom car shops use Raptor on the underside of there high end build as well. At the end of the day it looks good, is very durable and really easy to clean and take care of.
Unless this is more of a show only car my vote would be to Raptor the underside.

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