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Discussion Starter #1
It is DAMN hot today here in utah...102....Driving my car around in the city I noticed she was stay at about 210-215...normaly on the freeway and city she stays at 185-190....she's got a 180 T-stat, cobra pump pulley, and 3 core heavy duty radiator....

I'm just wondering about what temps I should watch out for having aluminum heads now....at what point should I pull over and let the electric fan cool everything off?....225?

Thanks...
 

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Making so much power it is overheating, HUH? LOL! Whats up have not heard from you lately, just wondering how everything was going. You are ok up to around 225, I would try to figure out why it is getting that hot. Have you installed a aluminum radiator yet, and maybe a bigger fan. Hope everything is still working out for you, no dyno-or times yet?

Good Luck, Greg(XSR)
 

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If you're running the electric fan, I'd ditch it in favor of a police fan clutch .... PPI still sells them and it will CURE your cooling issues. Don't go any further on the pullies than the 93 Cobra stuff. It will make your life easier.

Stevie Ray
 

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i second the police fan. i went from 215-220° temps with 3 core and 180° tstat to consistent 185° temps now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know that the stock fan would aid in cooling quite a bit but Its 10 times easier and faster to work on my car without that big ass shround and fan to always take off.....

and its not like my electric fan sucks....its off a 99 Vic police car....it's actualy bigger than the radiator!..I also have a 3G upgrade too...

I'll just order me that nice Summit radiator everyone is ranting about :) my 3 core radiator looks like crap anyway....I was cleaning the engine with simple green and degreecer next thing i know the paint came off the radiator!

The other thing is that after I posted this I drove around without my AC on and it didn't get near 200 in stop'n go traffic for 20 min...

BadBoss: the heads are kickin ass :) I just need to find me an Edel RPM intake for a good price and I'll get it to ya so you can port it and I can get that extra 50hp waiting :)
 

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If you're having trouble keeping it cool at cruising speeds, then you need more radiator capacity; it's not a cooling fan issue at highway speeds. On the other hand, if it's staying cool on the highway, but the temps are creeping up around town, that IS a cooling fan issue. The fan ought to be keeping it cool in traffic - so other's suggestions regarding more fan should help. SPAL makes a dual 11" fully shrouded unit that will move more than enough to keep it cool. Pricey though, and you'll need plenty of alternator to run it. I'd start thinking about pulling over and letting it cool if it runs into the 225-230 range if you want to be on the safe side.
 

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maybe your fan is kicking in too late?
 

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If you can idle without overheating your fan is working fine. You've either got a clogged radiator or airflow problems. Got all the air dam/inner fender liners installed? Removing any of these can affect your cooling ability at speed. Especially the lower air dam, the one that hangs down right in front of the radiator and always scrapes.

Also might try swapping back to a stock water pump pulley. Unless you do LOTS of idling you don't need the water pump to be turning that fast.
 

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"If you can idle without overheating your fan is working fine. "

Not sure what's meant with the statement above. Heavy stop and go traffic causes the engine to generate much more heat than simple idling does, but doesn't move much more air across the radiator. When chasing cooling issues with mine, it could sit for hours idling in 90F+ temps with the temp gauge right where it should be - around 195. The fans cycled off and on as designed. But put it in stop and go traffic with the same ambient temps, and the coolant temp would start to climb until I had to park it. My fans were working "fine"; that is they were coming on when they were supposed to. However, they weren't sized to move enough air at low vehicle speeds to cool the engine sufficiently. The "doesn't overheat at idle" test is not sufficient to conclude that the cooling fans are moving enough air to cool the car. If you talk to the handful of folks that have good info on what it takes to keep a 5.0L V-8 cool they'll tell you that, depending on the efficiency of your radiator, whether there are oil-cooler/a-c coils in front of the radiator, whether you're cooling an auto tranny too, and the ambient temps you're seeing, you need anywhere from 2000 to 3000 cfm moving across the radiator to keep it cool. And, as concluded above by several of us -- be sure you've got the radiator doing it's job properly first - before you start trouble shooting the cooling fan.

Matt - three things I'd check into. First is the pulley size - I think FiveoJester's advice is sound. I ended up ditching the entire underdrive set up on mine as the gains simply weren't worth my worrying about overheating things.

Second - you mention the incident with Simple Green taking the paint off. I've done the same thing with other cleaners before. As the cleaner begins to remove/dissolve the paint, what can happen is the paint sort of "bubbles up" on the radiator fins essentially clogging up the area between the fins. This can severly limit airflow across them, which kills heat transfer. I'd take a real close look at your radiator (get a flash light or drop light behind it and look through the fins from the front) and see if it's 'clogged' up this way. That may be contributing to the issue as well. Also, there is special paint for radiator cores - it's much thinner than the normal spray paints we tend to use on our cars - in fact, that's probably why the cleaners removed it in the first place. That paint is designed to not interfere with heat transfer. The paints with more solids in them can interfere with the heat transfer from the fins.

Third - the Crown Vic fan you've got -- is it a pusher or a puller? I don't know anything about that set up. If it's a puller and was the only fan on the Crown Vic police car, as you've concluded, it ought to move plenty of air to keep your car cool. Police cars have extremely heavy duty cooling set ups. However, if the Crown Vic had a belt driven fan pulling air across, and an electric pusher fan on the front, then the pusher is there just to come on with the a/c, and won't move enough air to keep the car cool by itself.

Actually, you DO want your electric fan to suck. And you want it to suck big time. :) Properly sized and shrouded, the electric fans do a better job than belt driven fans do, and they consume much less HP than a belt driven fan does. They provide maximum airflow when you need it (at low speeds) and they don't run at all when you don't need them to. That's the exact opposite of a belt driven set up, although temp. operated clutches on belt driven set ups try to provide some measure of freewheeling at speed. I wouldn't switch back; but I'd be sure the set up is allowing enough air to move at all speeds.
 

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Nitrous.....Gotta love utah baby. Lets face it it is hot! I have had alot of heating problems at my shop since the first of the week. Your system should handle it. If it is not over heating at idle then the problem is in the airflow at speed. Are you running a fan shroud??? are there air gaps between radiator and core support??
A fan shroud does help alot:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't have a fan shroud....I know thats gona help alot when I can take a stock one and trim it down so the huge ass fan can fit in it.....at cruising speed I'm A-OK......

My biggest concern is warping the alumium heads....I would cry if that happened....

I'm taking a road trip to wendover nevada today for my Bacholor party...gona be driving throu the hot utah desert....I should be fine....I did it last year with the same exact cooling system setup only I didn't have aluminum heads...

Oh...and the fan is a puller mounted behind the radiator.....it pulls some serious air :)

that little plastic piece below my front bumper is still there but its in bad shape...I was going to take it off but I guess I'll leave it...

Thanks guys for all the responses I appricate it alot
 

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Wouldn't go to a 160 on an efi street car. Computer's expecting to see higher operating temps than that. And the lower temp. t'stats just mask the symptoms of some other problem (fan or heat transfer capacity) for some period of time. They treat the symptom, not the illness.

Matt, just keep your eye on the temp gauge and shut 'er down if it gets too hot. Course, you might be late for your batch party (congrats) and THAT would be a real tragedy.
 

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I have a quick question on the subject. My car runs fine on the street, but on the highway it gets like 20-25 degrees hotter. I have a 3 core rad, mark VIII fan, 180 t-stat, red line watter wetter but I dont have that lower air dam. Could not having it cause cooling problem on the highway?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds liek that little air damn has more function than just making scraping sounds!!

I think 95mph outa slam enough air into the radiator :)

Yea I hope all goes well :)....if you wana see my announcment check out

www.members.aol.com/realtormatt/invite.jpg
 

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Im kinda having the same problem... fluiddyne rad, edel high flow water pump, 180 thermostat, and black magic fan. I think the problem is the fan... not sure not good it is on a motor like mine. Would i get any better cooling swtiching back to the stock setup? I have one here. But its the flexlight metal fan i believe. Looks like it would move more air. If not i guess i need to get the ramcharges dual fans.
 

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Michael Yount said:
"If you can idle without overheating your fan is working fine. "

Not sure what's meant with the statement above.

I meant that if the car will idle without overheating the fan is at least doing something. Some people I know have cars that can't idle for more than 10 min without overheating. They're all from the 60s though. :D

I see your point about stop n-go. My dad has overheated many cars in stop n'go.

Deividas93GT said:
I have a quick question on the subject. My car runs fine on the street, but on the highway it gets like 20-25 degrees hotter. I have a 3 core rad, mark VIII fan, 180 t-stat, red line watter wetter but I dont have that lower air dam. Could not having it cause cooling problem on the highway?

Thanks
It's definitely worth a try. It's only $15 for a new one from www.50resto.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I got back from my trip and I took it durring Record temps here

I left 5:00 on saturday which was really dumb...thats the hottest time...it was 105 from SLC and 110-115 throu the desert heading to Wendover, NV....My car ran at 205-210 but if I turned the AC on it would start to creap over 210 so I just left the AC off and got some 140mph wind action :)

On the way back however we left at about 11am and I drove the whole way home with the AC on and never got over 195 even with another 140mph run (had to test the 3.55's) :)

I'm pretty sure its not a problem with my fan....its a problem with the radiator...its just a junker 3 core....I'm gona order that summit one within the next few weeks....

Also while down in Wendover I drove on the salt flats and did a few 360's :)
 
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