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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my dilema:

I just bought a 96 Cobra and will be putting a Vortech on it asap. This is going to be used as a street car and see very few passes at the drag strip. Right now I have 2 options:

1. Vortech S-trim and T-rex fuel pump

2. Vortech Strim w/aftercooler and T-rex

The difference is about $1000 and I need to know if it is worth it? Will I be upset if I dont go with the aftercooler and want to add more hp in the future?

Also, what should I do about the rear-end? Just put in gears, or go with a complete posi setup with the 31 spline? What are the chances I will break something just going with the gears?

Thanks
 

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My understanding is that the vortech aftercooler is air:water and therefore heats up very quickly on the street. I really don't think it is that much of an advantage on the street and probably not worth the money. I am no expert, but I know I have read this numerous times
 

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Do a search for my friend Steve (BlownMystic1). He had a Strim with Aftercooler and put down 467/392 with a BBK catted H, dual 62mm TB, and a JMS mail order chip. This was with 9.5psi. From what he's told me, an aftercooler is worth it.

John
 

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I have a 97 Cobra with the S-Trim and Aftercooler and I love the combo. Keep in mind you will need a battery re-location kit...here is a pic of my set up...I had to cut some of the pic out in order to use my image host but you can see some of the aftercoolers reservoir on the right side. I think it is absolutely worth it. My car is also a daily driver...in Texas.




97 Black Cobra

Vortech S-Trim, Vortech Afercooler, AFM Power Pipe, BBK LT's, BBK o/r H, Mac cat-back, 430's (Pfft...love'm), Mac progressive lowering kit, Diablo custom tune chip, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, Walbro 255 lph in-tank, Pierburg 255 lph in-line, Autometer gauges and shift light, Cobra R hood, Cobra "R" rims 255/40 275/40, Some other stuff…..

RWHP: 438 (runnin rich 'tween 4600 and 6400 RPMs)
RWTQ: 356
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
8PSI97Cobra-

Thats a nice setup you have there. Yeah I know about the battery reloc so that isn't an issue. I am moving to Austin, TX in July so I will be joining "team Texas." Are you using the stock 24# injectors and mass air meter? I was told to go with the 42# and larger meter. Also, are you still running on your stock rear end other than the 4.30s?
 

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I installed the Vortech Supercharger on my car in the summer and had it dyno tuned. The car ran great however from time to time I would notice light detonation after the car had been driven in traffic a bit. This was of course due to heat. I ended up recently installing the Vortech aftercooler and have yet to hear any issues with detonation since. I can now drive the car for hours in town and do not have issues with heat related detonation. I also do not agree with the post stating that the water will heat up and the system not work. That is simply not true! Heat is the result of boost. According to Vortech, it would take 18 to 20 minutes of 8 psig boost to stabilize their system. I don't really think any of us are going to be at WOT for that amount of time! Air to air aftercoolers would probably be better suited for road racing however are not as effective as air to water for regualar everyday driving or drag racing. A good article on the subject car been read on the Superchargersonline.com web site. Here is the link: http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=7

I home this helps out.
 

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Old thread, but Im going to add anyway. The aftercooler drops air intake temps from around 180 down to around 120. 60 or more degrees of air intake temps are not only going to build power, they are going to keep your motor alive longer. Period. It's well worth the money. I have one and love it. It does take up some real estate under the hood, but who cares.

My intake temps are always under 120. The cooler does not heat up, like you're worried about, because its constantly circulated thru the little radiator. The system works exactly like a car's water pump/radiator system.

I'm getting ready to go the next step and install an aluminum tank in the trunk and run the lines to it instead of to the Vortech reservoir. Even with the Aftercooler setup, when I hotlap the car it slows down 1 to 4 tenths. I'm hoping a 5 gallon water cell in back, and a fan on the little radiator will help that considerably.
 

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Pontisteve said:
Old thread, but Im going to add anyway. The aftercooler drops air intake temps from around 180 down to around 120. 60 or more degrees of air intake temps are not only going to build power, they are going to keep your motor alive longer. Period. It's well worth the money. I have one and love it. It does take up some real estate under the hood, but who cares.

My intake temps are always under 120. The cooler does not heat up, like you're worried about, because its constantly circulated thru the little radiator. The system works exactly like a car's water pump/radiator system.

I'm getting ready to go the next step and install an aluminum tank in the trunk and run the lines to it instead of to the Vortech reservoir. Even with the Aftercooler setup, when I hotlap the car it slows down 1 to 4 tenths. I'm hoping a 5 gallon water cell in back, and a fan on the little radiator will help that considerably.
I contemplated doing the same thing but added a larger heat exchanged instead. I am planning on also adding some fans that I can turn on and off manually so I can run it while I am in the staging lanes. I also add ice alot at the track which really helps. later Ron
 

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Underw0rld said:
I like the idea of the Paxton air to air better. They are compatible with the s-trim too.
Yeppers. I ran the Paxton A/A when I had the vortech S and still run it with the little Novi 2k :rofl:
 

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primetime said:
I contemplated doing the same thing but added a larger heat exchanged instead. I am planning on also adding some fans that I can turn on and off manually so I can run it while I am in the staging lanes. I also add ice alot at the track which really helps. later Ron
I thought about getting a larger heat exchanger in addition, but wasn't sure about just where to put it. All the 8 second guys run water tanks in the back, and of course fill them with ice water. They don't even have an exchanger, and it gets the job done on huge turbos. My theory is that the sheer volume of water will help dissipate the heat much better. You could run a faster pump too. I also want to add a fan, and a switch. Right now mine runs with the key. I was thinking to run the fan and the pump with the key, but also have a toggle that turns on the relay so I can run it in the lanes.

Boy, our cars have similar power. I ran 430 rwhp @ 3490 lbs, and just tonight at the filming of Pinks in Gainesville, I ran a best ever of 11.91 @ 118.7 (1.81 60').

What's your combo?
 

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Blown284 said:
Yeppers. I ran the Paxton A/A when I had the vortech S and still run it with the little Novi 2k :rofl:
Here's my stupid theory about air to air... take a bolt and torch it cherry red. Then blow on it, and touch it. (Dont try this at home!)

or... heat it up and drop it in a glass of water. Which one sounds like the better idea?

I'm sure they both help, I just think water is a better dissipater.
 

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Pontisteve said:
Here's my stupid theory about air to air... take a bolt and torch it cherry red. Then blow on it, and touch it. (Dont try this at home!)

or... heat it up and drop it in a glass of water. Which one sounds like the better idea?

I'm sure they both help, I just think water is a better dissipater.
I'm sure it is overall better for a full out race car. I drive my car on the street quite a bit. Actually logged 98 miles yesterday.
 

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Blown284 said:
I'm sure it is overall better for a full out race car. I drive my car on the street quite a bit. Actually logged 98 miles yesterday.
I'm not sure that I can see how it wouldn't be better for a street car as well. Although I was reading a very interesting article on that last nite...

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/intercooler.html

I think that once the water heats up, it's slower to cool down. I'm going to try and combat that effect with supplying more water volume and adding a universal aluminum heat exchanger I found on Ebay (if it will fit). Check it out...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8067634084&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

The real proof is in blower output vs. Intake Air temps. My air temps are 100 at the starting line, 108 at the 1-2 shift, 130 at the 2-3 shift, 124 at the 3-4 shift, 118 at the peak rpm thru the traps, and 106 pulling up to the ticket booth. That's a V1-S trim Vortech with 12 psi peak. That's actually pretty good (100 start to 106 finish). But the car does seem to go slower after the first pass unless I let it cool down for 45 minutes to an hour. How does that compare with an air-to-air?
 

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Pontisteve said:
I'm not sure that I can see how it wouldn't be better for a street car as well. Although I was reading a very interesting article on that last nite...

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/intercooler.html

I think that once the water heats up, it's slower to cool down. I'm going to try and combat that effect with supplying more water volume and adding a universal aluminum heat exchanger I found on Ebay (if it will fit). Check it out...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=8067634084&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

The real proof is in blower output vs. Intake Air temps. My air temps are 100 at the starting line, 108 at the 1-2 shift, 130 at the 2-3 shift, 124 at the 3-4 shift, 118 at the peak rpm thru the traps, and 106 pulling up to the ticket booth. That's a V1-S trim Vortech with 12 psi peak. That's actually pretty good (100 start to 106 finish). But the car does seem to go slower after the first pass unless I let it cool down for 45 minutes to an hour. How does that compare with an air-to-air?
With the A/A that I run, I typically see at the track a 100* if not more temp drop ... not too shabby. I don't have the logs with me but my Paxton AA does a great job. But you're right, the *OPTIMUM* way to go would probably be water > air. However, I plan to put a little nozzle right after the blower discharge to ensure that I'm cooling things down even more (let it snow let it snow let it snow) :rofl:

By the way, the V-1 (what I used to run) is an outstanding blower. I have noticed the Novi 2000 is a lot different as far as boost though.
 

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Pontisteve said:
I thought about getting a larger heat exchanger in addition, but wasn't sure about just where to put it. All the 8 second guys run water tanks in the back, and of course fill them with ice water. They don't even have an exchanger, and it gets the job done on huge turbos. My theory is that the sheer volume of water will help dissipate the heat much better. You could run a faster pump too. I also want to add a fan, and a switch. Right now mine runs with the key. I was thinking to run the fan and the pump with the key, but also have a toggle that turns on the relay so I can run it in the lanes.

Boy, our cars have similar power. I ran 430 rwhp @ 3490 lbs, and just tonight at the filming of Pinks in Gainesville, I ran a best ever of 11.91 @ 118.7 (1.81 60').

What's your combo?
The larger heat exchanger fits pretty easily. I actually just went with a 03 Cobra one that I got for $75 from a 03 owner who upgraded to a larger one. All I had to do was move the brackets and relocated the pump a little. My concern with putting a tank in the trunk is all the line you would have to run and the pump that it would require. I don't think the stock Vortech supplied pump could handle it, but I may be wrong. You are right about the volume of water but that also equals more weight. Just something to think about. I plan on adding a meth/water injection kit sometime this year.

As for my combo, it is basically a stock motor with Vortech SQ(3.33 pulley), Vortech aftercooler with an 03 heat exchanger, MAC longtubes with custom coating, bassani x with cats, Borla catback, ported and polished bullit intake, Cobra TB, Pro-M MAF, Morpheus powerpipe, steeda radiator, steeda shifter, aluminum ds, subframes, 3.73's:)barf:), maximum motorsport control arms, tokico 5-way shocks and struts, stock wheels widened to 10.5 inches so I can run 315 street radials, and probably a few other little things I can't think of! lol The car is capable of a mid 11, with a better tire and driver, IMO. I just launch the car off of idle and can't really go WOT until 2nd. Like I mentioned above I plan on adding a water/meth injection which I am hooking up via my window washer resovouir and hopefully pump with the nozzle spraying right into my intake where the EGR normally goes. I also want to drop a pulley size and get a race gas tune as well. Lidio, my tuner, tells me I can probably see 500-525ish safely with the above mods. Not bad for a stock 2v motor :) later Ron
 

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I have a 96 I bought new, first put the vortech on without the power-cooler, and it was a dog it heat and traffic, the power-cooler and a AFM power-pipe gained 2psi and about 75rwhp, The best thing I've done to the car, and I paid $1700 as an add-on, so get it with the kit. With stock CR, you should NOT go over 10 psi, and you will need a good mass air meter (SCT 2400) and 36# injectors, A/F and timing are CRITICAL to get correct or you will have engine damage, so don't forget to keep the A/F ratio in the 11s all the way to redline. I have gone through 3 sets of pistons at stock CR and 12psi. Now have 16cc Mahle pistons from Livernoise. At 15 psi w/55# injectors I make 530rwhp.

as far as gears, these 4 valve monsters love 4.10s
 
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