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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
its been a long time , I've got some time to deal with the clutch noise now.

I did the alum Quadrant, MM adjustable cable, and it's still making the same noise like in the video above , I cant really afford to buy a new 400 $ clutch the Ram HD for a T56 magnum.

The clutch still holds the power well now, so I'm thinking about replacing the throw out bearing to see I that helps.

I'd like to just replace the pressure plate, looking in the tranny I can see a couple fingers looking like they are bent a little more than most of them.

is that possible to get a new PP for my Tranny ?
 

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Funny, I had a Ram clutch behind my T-56 Magnum go wonky on me, when I pulled it, it was actually the clutch disc had peeled about half the friction material off on one side. I replaced that with a Spec disc I already had, it's been happy ever since.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
funny thing is it holds Great still , didn't slip at all during that burnout in the video. But it sounds God awful terrible lol.

I found Rams website and the part # for the PP on their site. customer service is open Monday, so I'll talk with them and see what they think.
the HD is down on price from when I paid 400 for it, I've seen down around 359 for the HD kit now. how much was the Spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
ok That's funny , I'm thinking my disc is good and my Ram HD PP is bad , not real sure what is bad.
You're using the older Ram PP and a new disc and it's working .
I'm wanting a new PP and use the same disc. lol

I have a new throw out bearing and a new clutch fork if I need it, I don't think it's the fork because the clutch works good.
putting in the alum Quad and MM adj cable helped a little on the noise/knocking coming from there.

I'd hate to just replace the throw out bearing and fork and it still do the same thing , lol that wouldn't be good. But I don't want to throw 400 bucks at it just for the heck of it either.
I have a Spec alum flywheel with a new steel insert , it's got about 2800 miles on it now.
Thanks for the links.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
I finally got my butt in gear and am going to fix the major issues I have with this car , Got too much $ invested for this thing to sit and not drive it, :smile2:

so I got my Alum Quadrant and cable From MM installed and the clutch was still the same, making a lot of noise.

so far I have a new Ram clutch kit , I still need a new friction plate for the Spec alum flywheel.

I took the Kooks headers off and sent them to Swain Tech for the White Lightning coating. just got them back Monday last week.
they look pretty good, but they didn't clean the slip on part of the tubes, go figure. , almost $600 bucks with shipping both ways.

I bought a new stock power steering rack a Cardone, lol it took them 3 times before one got here that wasn't damaged.
a new Cardone ps pump, new pressure and return lines for it.

and I figured out where the small leak from the T56 is coming from. the shifter plate it looks like, on the front short side , I couldn't see it well when it was in the car.

I need to round up the last parts I need and I want to paint the headers a dark color, I'll add a couple pics of them.
maybe silver, grey, black matte.

has anyone painted the white lightning coating, just wondering what you used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Darn Time flies , it's been over 2 years posting here and almost 5 years the car's been running !!
I've got about 6K miles on it now. it's been running pretty good , most the times.

put it on jack stands about a month ago, changed the Mobil 1 syn. oil and tranny fluid. and have stuff to change out all the brakes on the car, and found out I've almost fried a couple brake lines with the Kooks headers. so I have some work to do the next little bit. lets get started.

here's a few pics, if I can get them to load up here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
that stock distribution Block? ( if that's what ya call it) isn't screwed down to the shock tower , so the brake lines are pulled out a little. and the engine twists sideways a good bit , so I'm thinking about doing solid motor mounts. any thoughts on them or what brand you might use?
and the collectors are leaking on me still. I'm thinking about marking both sides with a black marker , taking them off and giving them a good attitude adjustment. knock some sense into them so they'll give me some space between the shock tower and the tubes, it's just one tube on each side is really close, about 1/8" or less when the engine torques up
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
I got started cleaning up the wiring a little, got my coils mounted on the drivers side valve cover. I forgot to put the baffle in it, I tried to screw it in with the supplied screws and they weren't catching in the holes.
How bad is that to skip a baffle? have the coils mounted, only drilled 2 holes and bolted them together .
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
couple more pics drilled and tapped 10-24 threads , and first time I used the Felpro blue gaskets and some spray to help them stick, I don't like valve covers much, actually first time changing them on this engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
it's been 3 months now, and getting cold since I started the car. it's been on jack stands and I've taken apart all the coils and drivers side header, I have to replace 2 brake lines near that header, was trying to mount my coils on new covers , but got 2 pair that I couldn't mount the baffles in due to holes not right inside the covers.
so now it's got cold, with the holidays I haven't had time to work on it much.

I'm thinking I may need to go spin and lube the engine, take out the dist. , I've done it before.

I use Mobile one full syn oil in it. and had just changed the oil when I put it on jack stands.

should I do it now, I don't want anything to rust up or mess up the engine?.

I'm thinking I should but what do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
I used my old valve covers, got the coils all done, replaced the brake lines, had it running again long time ago.

I decided to upgrade the steering system to and sn95 setup. I've got all the parts and was needing to know how many turns to start with on the tie-rod outer ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
wow it's been a long time. I got really sick, health problems, and still staying super busy. I started looking into doing this a couple month ago, right when I got real sick.
fast forward a couple months and I've got found some more to do with the car.
first thanks guys for subbing the build, it just never ends.
I got the add on harness from Pro-m. so I plan to do that along with the new steering system. I thought I put all that on here. so here goes.
I talked with Jr. at Turn one steering. Maximum Motorsports recommends them on their website. I talked with Jr. and told him all the 03/04 Cobra racks are super high dollar on ebay and he told me they were no better than the GT racks, Cool!!
so I got a 125K used 04 GT rack, the guy had pics of the car and was open for offers, I got it I think it was 115 shipped or add shipping. pretty decent deal. then I sent it to Turn One Steering and Jr said they could rebuild it stock. or they could rebuild it Cobra R spec. they wanted a cool Grand for the Cobra R spec, so I just had a regular rebuild on it. it was still not much under 500 to have it sent back to me. I also sent them fox inner tie rod ends, and the boots and they installed them for free.
I've got a rebuilt PS pump and I'll have to swap the pully myself.
new PS lines for it. poly rack mount bushings. and Redline PS fluid.

on the Pro-m supplemental harness, I think that's what they call it. I still need to get new 02 sensors. AND Get to work on the car. lol...

it runs good except the last 6 months or so the steering feels terrible. I don't know what it is. but I don't drive it a whole lot right now.
Thanks for subbing, it may help me get it in gear to get going on this project again.
 
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