[ndmus88gteng]

next I went to the parts house and got my vacuum line stuff , a breather for the drivers side cover, pcv valve for the pass side cover, and the hose's they only had fuel line for the 3/8" part about 1.69 per foot.

and yesterday I looked at my front end suspension stuff, it needs a front end line up, so I searched around and found mfe's home made stuff, made a trip to HD and got 2 nice 1 by 3's 8' long , and 4 L shape shelf brackets mine are 12 by 14" , the 14" will reach up past mid point of the tire pretty good , for setting toe. I got double so I won't have to keep swapping the board back and forth. it wasn't that much money.

mfe said on caster to set the strut tops to the rear as far as possible "within reason" so I'll check that as I drive the car.
and I got 2 bolts - 1/4" by 5" long I'll drill holes in my 4' level for my camber tool. and they had a nice digital pocket level for $40 , it measures in decimal points , that will make it a little easier to measure camber degrees.
I'll just use the bolts as spacers to get the level out from the tire/body.

and got a 5 gal can of high test put in the tank yesterday,:smile2: almost ready to fire that monster,lol

And it's really cold this am, 26 degrees about 7 am , only supposed to hit about 50 - 52 today, so I'm going to try to get all the little stuff done today, and it's supposed to warm up the next few days, I'll hold off on the startup for a few days, Almost there.

 

[Blk.Snake]

What are you planning to use for your boost control?

 

[petmotel]

next I went to the parts house and got my vacuum line stuff , a breather for the drivers side cover, pcv valve for the pass side cover, and the hose's they only had fuel line for the 3/8" part about 1.69 per foot.

and yesterday I looked at my front end suspension stuff, it needs a front end line up, so I searched around and found mfe's home made stuff, made a trip to HD and got 2 nice 1 by 3's 8' long , and 4 L shape shelf brackets mine are 12 by 14" , the 14" will reach up past mid point of the tire pretty good , for setting toe. I got double so I won't have to keep swapping the board back and forth. it wasn't that much money.

mfe said on caster to set the strut tops to the rear as far as possible "within reason" so I'll check that as I drive the car.
and I got 2 bolts - 1/4" by 5" long I'll drill holes in my 4' level for my camber tool. and they had a nice digital pocket level for $40 , it measures in decimal points , that will make it a little easier to measure camber degrees.
I'll just use the bolts as spacers to get the level out from the tire/body.

and got a 5 gal can of high test put in the tank yesterday,:smile2: almost ready to fire that monster,lol

And it's really cold this am, 26 degrees about 7 am , only supposed to hit about 50 - 52 today, so I'm going to try to get all the little stuff done today, and it's supposed to warm up the next few days, I'll hold off on the startup for a few days, Almost there.

Maximum Motorsports sells a tool for setting bump steer that can also be used for camber, and caster! Well worth the money, most alignment shops don't do bump steer.

I use a pair of string lines and a couple of barbell stands to set my toe, if you're careful it yields excellent results!

Jay

 

[ndmus88gteng]

What are you planning to use for your boost control?

Mine is an NA 427 build, I was tired of not driving the car, so I just wanted something reliable, and strong enough to hold its own.

Freezy made the cam to make power to 6800 to 7000 rpms, also keeping street manners in mind, he didn't like the rear gear 327 , with the 2.66 T56 1st gear, may not be able to get into 6th gear much he said , so I'm going to see how it acts and maybe look to a gear change come spring time, it's never over is it, I'm already thinking about a complete rearend change out, mini tub deal, and 5 lug , upgrade the brakes next :smile2:

Maximum Motorsports sells a tool for setting bump steer that can also be used for camber, and caster! Well worth the money, most alignment shops don't do bump steer.

I use a pair of string lines and a couple of barbell stands to set my toe, if you're careful it yields excellent results!

Jay

Thanks Jay , I just learned a new trick with the string on you-tube.
the guy uses 2 jack stands in front the front 2 tires, and wraps the string around the 2 rear tires up to the jack stand, but I liked mfe's ideas on the toe, and I've got a shop that does all my tire work, they worked on my 03 Cobra years ago , so I trust them pretty good guys.
I'm going to take it up there and we're going to get the front end all done up , caster/camber electronically , I'm just wanting to get it close enough to not kill the front tires in a couple few hundred miles,
and they are going to help me pic the biggest tire that will fit on my 16" pony wheels.:smile2:

 

[ndmus88gteng]

got started this after noon, and the fuel line stuff still doesn't fit.

Summit sent 3 an-6 to 3/8" male adapters, and one 3/8" pipe plug.
you can see in the pic the pipe plug is way too big ??

one thing the fuel lines are an-8, so I messed up telling them an-6.

But the 3/8" side is not fitting at all here's a couple pics, so I have to call them back, but I'm not sure what size the rails are ?

Chris at EdelBrock said the were 3/8" npt , has anyone done these Eddie 3620 rails to tell me what fittings go in them ?

 

[Blk.Snake]

Lol! Too many pain meds. Reading too many posts.

 

[ndmus88gteng]

Lol! Too many pain meds. Reading too many posts.

Lol I hear Ya!!! :wink2:

 

[petmotel]

Fittings for fuel rails often use a straight cut O-ring on one end going to the rail, and an AN style on the other end. Those threads in the fuel rails look like the straight cut O-ring style. If the threads in the rails are NOT tapered like a pipe thread, that is what they will most certainly be.

WTF is that screwdriver doing in that Allen key hole? :surprise:

Jay

 

[ndmus88gteng]

Fittings for fuel rails often use a straight cut O-ring on one end going to the rail, and an AN style on the other end. Those threads in the fuel rails look like the straight cut O-ring style. If the threads in the rails are NOT tapered like a pipe thread, that is what they will most certainly be.

WTF is that screwdriver doing in that Allen key hole? :surprise:

Jay

LoL :surprise: it's just holding the plug for the pic without my fingers in the shot , LoL
I searched the web last night and found a link to some good info,
Link: Understanding Fuel Line Fittings ? Straight Thread (and AN) vs. Tapered Thread | Fuelab

learned what I needed and got back with summits for the third time, and they were great, these fittings were about $11 each, so they supplied me free of charge 3 fittings and the cap for the fuel rails, should be here by tomorrow.

I told them they needed to change their listing for the Eddy 3620 fuel rails because they aren't listed correctly, and could save somebody a lot of headache with them.
she said she's going to write an IT ticket and have them look at it, hope that will help the next new guy that buys the Edelbrock 3620 fuel rails for a 9.5" block

 

[sradtodrag]

Mine is an NA 427 build, I was tired of not driving the car, so I just wanted something reliable, and strong enough to hold its own.

Freezy made the cam to make power to 6800 to 7000 rpms, also keeping street manners in mind, he didn't like the rear gear 327 , with the 2.66 T56 1st gear, may not be able to get into 6th gear much he said , so I'm going to see how it acts and maybe look to a gear change come spring time, it's never over is it, I'm already thinking about a complete rearend change out, mini tub deal, and 5 lug , upgrade the brakes next :smile2:

:

I have the same tranny with the 2.66 first gear. I had 3.90's and the first gear was still long. I switched to 4.10s with a 27 inch tall tire and the car feels great. You will definitely need to change your gears

 

[ndmus88gteng]

I was going to start the car today, but it's not going my way,>

I got the oil system primed real good, and stabbed the dist #1 TDC , I thought but I was off ( never stabbed a CNP dizzy) , got the dual Innovative WB LC1 gauge set up, for both sides, all that went well.

but by this time the battery was running low some, so I hooked up my little battery charger , I tried a couple more times , and the the starter stuck on, so I jumped up and disconnect the positive as fast as could.

this is a Taylor pos battery cable that comes in their kit, the darn thing fell right out, and it wasn't even hot !!
it never felt bad as I was putting it on the battery,


so I cleaned up my pos cable, got a new end for it, now the Starter is still stuck on, any idea on how to get it unstuck ?

 

[Len Schmidt]

If the starter is sticking then something is too tight. Make sure you have the correct starter for the flywheel. Something is not right. Or maybe you just have a ####ty starter....

 

[ndmus88gteng]

I was using an old battery , it got ran down and it welded the contacts in the solenoid on the drivers fender I replaced that and got a new battery

Now it cranks but I think I've got the dist stabbed wrong

Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day

 

[ndmus88gteng]

Ok got some catching up to do.

The starter staying on, was from a burned /welded up starter relay on the drivers fender , probably due to using an old ass battery, and an old ass battery charger, that wasn't charging to begin with. ( I never throw anything away) LOL.

I went ahead and bought a new battery and a Good charger just in case.

and I took the battery out of the trunk/hatch area, and moved it back up front, hooked the Main Pro-M pos and neg to the Battery it self. Chris said that was fine.

I'm sure it didn't help that the POS Taylor battery cables, BOTH ends fell off the cables when I took them off the battery in the hatch ?? WTF

Taylor Battery cables = POS

anyway got finished with the battery up front, hooked it up and she fired right up.
now it was getting late Monday afternoon, getting cold and almost dark, so I just checked the timing and the fuel pressure gauge and took her for a ride.

I got about 13 miles on it, took it up and filled it with premium, to find I had a small water leak, out the POS chrome water neck. so I took it home and parked it.

at least she runs. :smile2:

 

[COP TZR]

Read all the posts...glad to see you got it running.

You will always find something "just need to fix" or to go over and tweek some more, its the life of a Foxbody rebuilder.

I always think of this FordStrokers build/break-in when people spend weeks wondering what the best priming/startup/break-in procedure is.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1832905-fordstrokers-diy-408-11rs-alive.html

 

[Blk.Snake]

Congratulations on the start up, glad to hear.

 

[ndmus88gteng]

Read all the posts...glad to see you got it running.

You will always find something "just need to fix" or to go over and tweek some more, its the life of a Foxbody rebuilder.

I always think of this FordStrokers build/break-in when people spend weeks wondering what the best priming/startup/break-in procedure is.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1832905-fordstrokers-diy-408-11rs-alive.html

Yes I remember that one !! Sweet
my neighbors would prob call the law lol

it's been a lot of work, and I learned a lot and hope this engine/build lasts a long time.

I still get the itch to put together one of Woody's diy kits

Congratulations on the start up, glad to hear.

Hey Thanks Blk.Snake I've fixed up a few things and ready to fire it up again today, might be able to get a video:smile2:

I see you are down to the interior , Sweet build you have there.

Thanks Guys

 

[ndmus88gteng]

I had a couple issues on startup , I've got them all fixed now

I used an old chrome water neck and it leaked, so I ordered one from Rock-Auto and a couple oil pan drain plug washers, the Moroso pan had a tiny drip from the back drain plug.

got that stuff in on Wed and got the water neck on , and re-torqued the lower intake , I ran through the pattern at 20 foot lb , then went thru at 25 ft lb , 4 -5 times waiting a few minutes between times.

I'm pretty sure it's torqued right now, all even and tight.

I talked with Chris about the issues, and he was very eager to help, not only with the efi stuff, but with any issues I had , he was a big help, Thanks Chris :grin2: , if you see this.


one thing Chris didn't like on my fuel system, and he said it May OR May not be an issue , is the way my fuel lines are tied into the rails.

Highflow fuels/ Quantum fuels figured this part out for me with the fuel system I got from them.

I have -an8 from the tank, with fuel filter, to Regulator in engine bay
then an-8 to rear side pass fuel rail, with an -8 cross over to front of drivers fuel rail, and a plug/dead head in back of drivers fuel rail.
and an-6 return line from bottom of regulator back to fuel tank.

it makes sense what Chris is saying about not letting the fuel system dead head at the fuel rails, if I'm sitting in Fri afternoon rush hour traffic in Atlanta for 2 + hours , any thoughts on this.

one thing I noticed was when I unhooked the vacuum from the regulator , it didn't change at all.

I went ahead and ordered an An-8 female cap, and another fuel rail fitting.
my an8 supply line was long enough to hook it to the rear side of drivers fuel rail, and put the cap on the regulator port, that I pulled the main fuel line from.

now the fuel will flow thru the rails all the time, and not dead head, or sit in the rails, any thoughts on this. ??

that was a pretty easy change, we'll see if it changes anything today.

I'm going to change the oil, and top off the antifreeze and she'll be ready to run again, hoping to get some miles on it today

 

[ndmus88gteng]

Time for another update, it's been a while.

I've got about 175 miles on it now, it runs good starts good , and I just found another round of work to do to it, ,, next post for that.

Now for the customer service part of the deal, Chris was amazing he worked with me thru every step of the way, and even took remote control of my lap top to help diagnose the issues.

Chris really went above and beyond to help resolve any issues I had with my car.

and I had quite a few.:frown2:

fuel system wrong. ( -8 fuel supply line was long enough to feed the drivers rear fuel rail and make a loop, I fixed that. )

didn't have the grounds per spec. ( I fixed that.)

wrong temp T-stat. ( I fixed that. )

sent Jim a March pulley kit for 351 with a/c , the pulley was larger , so the 150 amp alternator wouldn't spin up enough at idle. ( I fixed that with stock pulley that came with Alternator Tuff ? something is the brand. )

then I added a Pa Performance Charging wire upgrade kit , really nice kit, now between the kit and little smaller pulley
the charge stays at 13.1 or so volts with everything on in the car , even the rear window defroster turned on, fan on high, high beams, Cd blaring wide open ( Free Bird:wink2: ) 4-way flashers, fog lights, even the stock gauge stays well above half with all accessories. Great !!:grin2:

my a/c compressor was forward one arp washer thickness too far, Jim caught heck trying to make that thing work, so after things got all put together, there was room to move it back just that little bit, ( and the compressor is 8 rib, and the belt is 6 rib). it was in the center 6 ribs on the compressor to begin with, and that thing squealed like a pig. lol.

so I moved compressor back one washer's width, and moved the belt to the back rib , and it's straight as an arrow, and makes no noise at all.

now the car starts good, and runs good, but we are never done , are we??

 

[TEALCOBRA]

Glad to hear it's all back together and running well!