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"Ole - Red" and a FordStrokers 427 Dart Build.

21977 Views 133 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  ndmus88gteng
well here we Go !!!!!!! I'm finally going to start a new build thread....

a little back drop on "ole Red" , I did a "TFS HCI" build thread a couple years ago, other than swapping a couple engines and transmissions that's about the most I've done.

a couple pics, it actually looked pretty good when I was done with it.

it really only lasted about 3,000 miles , I never got the tune right and it started losing oil pressure, so I decided I was going to get a good engine somewhere??

and decided to start tearing it down about 2.5 yrs ago, about middle/latter part of 2012.

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I'm still not sure we have the K-member set right,

we got the engine and tranny put together, put the Pass side header on , out side the car, glad we did, it fit well , but looks like it would have been real hard to do after the engine was in.
also put the starter and the main 1/0 engine ground for the Battery relocate to the rear.
Pro-M wants a ground from the battery to the engine, so I'll do it that way.

one problem we had was lining up the motor mount studs with the slots in the K-member.

I hope we didn't mess up anything, but we used a strap, to pull the transmission side ways , enough to get the drivers side stud in the slot, ( had to pull it to the pass. side of the car about an inch?? ). but we had to pull it pretty hard.
I hope we didn't tear up anything, none of this stuff is cheap, T-56 , Dart 427,,,

we had to adjust the tranny mount just a little, to get the driveshaft and shifter centered looking in the tunnel, and shifter hole.
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we got the assembly set in place, that was a pain in the butt.

started on the Pro-M harness and 4 Hole TB. Edel fuel rails, 42 Lb injectors,

the AED Bracket wouldn't clear the Edel Fuel rails, the pro-M bracket , ( the little chrome bracket on right side, the Lokar adjuster is hooked to) it worked well.

we had to clearance the TB linkage just a touch, so it wouldn't hit the filter base, and we used the stock Ford inner cable, it attached to the peddle correctly.
the Lokar cable end didn't work right there.

used the Lokar sheath and linkage , and the Pro-M bracket , adjusted the cable , and it works perfect, the throttle snaps closed, and opens fully 90 degrees when you mash the go pedal.
looks awesome, its amazing how much better the underside looks just cleaning the gunk off. i did mine this summer. how close are you to firing it up? keep us updated.
looks awesome, its amazing how much better the underside looks just cleaning the gunk off. i did mine this summer. how close are you to firing it up? keep us updated.
Thanks , if I can get a few details worked out, we're hoping to fire it in 2-4 weeks .

we need to install the new fuel system, relocate battery to back.

get a few details on the Pro-M system, few wires to delete, and figure out what kind of lap-top to get to use with the Pro-M system?

and the wiring on the T-56 still.

and figure where to mount the coils near the plugs,

over all it's going together pretty good.
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Thanks guys , it's been a long time in getting to where it is now.

I took the week off from the car, we received the hangers for the fuel lines, and battery cables that will run to the back.

got these from Eastwood's about a buck each, SS brackets with good rubber , cant wait to start the fuel lines this next week.



talked to the insurance lady Fri about getting insurance on this setup, like an agreed amount policy.

will prob hear from her Monday on it. any thoughts on what type policy to get for this setup?
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great job.....you're building pretty much what I want. Cant wait to see it come together for you
Looks cool, I had trouble when I did my 408w swap with the headers. I ended up bringing them both up from under the car with the engine raised a little. A few months ago doing my 308 I set the headers in when I dropped the engine in. Too I've had to grind off the round "tab" on the engine mounts. Looking forward to more pictures.
Looks cool, I had trouble when I did my 408w swap with the headers. I ended up bringing them both up from under the car with the engine raised a little. A few months ago doing my 308 I set the headers in when I dropped the engine in. Too I've had to grind off the round "tab" on the engine mounts. Looking forward to more pictures.
I had to cut both tabs also to get the engine set in mounts flush

We e been playing a bunch of wsop on line last night I had to reset everything back to factory settings and lost everything off the computer all my build pics and all files Norton
Getting ready to spend some time setting everything back up pita

Don't know what it was but we lost a lot of info even my stuff from prom
Alright time for an update, got the old computer squared away, finally started roughing in the new fuel system, I bought the coyote swap "kit" an HFP 340 LPH intank pump, an-8 feed line and an-6 return line. from HFP Coyote Swap Fox Body /SN95 Complete Fuel System 1986 - 1997
but to work with my 427 build, Super Vic intake with Eddie rails.

we got it roughed in up to the fuel press regulator, and just called in some measurements and a few pics of my super vic fuel rails and how I got the regulator mounted turned in yesterday.

so we don't lack much on the fuel system.

started out with a new tank and she's ready for some fuel :) :) almost !
another issue is resolved, my "coil near plug " set-up is done now , except plug wire ends, maybe one of you guys can help out with that? :salute:

all told it was $44 for the Aluminum spacers and hardware. AluminumSpacers.com

to mount all 8 coils and the fuel pressure regulator, and I've got tons extra left overs on the hardware, if you need a few pieces lmk and if you pay shipping cost I'll send them on to you, I'll never use them.

and on the harness for the CNP , I was able to just pull it forward a little and all the coils plug in good now, no need to extend the harness's , :) Glad that's out the way now.

on the wires, I'm trying to use the Moroso ultra 40 race 8.65 MM spark plug wires, I went thru and laid them out and I think they will work really good .
if I could find ends for them to fit the GM LS coils that Pro-M uses.
any ideas or links to the correct ends, I've searched around and cant find them for sure. :salute: Thanks ahead for any help on that
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well made a little more progress

got our custom FireCore plug wires with the LS ends installed, new Ford Racing Rad cap, Moroso oil dip stick.
when installing the wires with Dei heat shields, it sure was tight, am I doing it right all the way down the boot, or are they just to cover from the end of the boot on the wire,

they sure were hard to get on the boot, and get them to snap on the plug wire, I might need to redo them,

and also got the Ford Racing hood pins installed, but the Boss Inc hood has 2 layers were they go, so there was no way to use the bottom plate to screw the tops down to,

so Ijust used a tiny bit as a pilot and hand screwed the tops down, ?? that's not right, but that's all I got LoL
also got started on the interior,

got the dash put back on,

I bought a Ford Motorsports 140 mph cluster, supposed to be rebuilt, with led bulbs,

and swapped my 2-1/16" water and oil gauges for some 2- 5/8" gauges , got them installed.
I've got a few things to update on the car,

we've got all the grounds and positive cables ran back to the battery box in the back, I drilled holes and ran them thru the fire wall. the ground is right off the starter bolt and thru the fire wall, and the positive fit right above the frame rail, it fit good and I put the tubing around it and de burred the fire wall before running it thru.

I decided to use the braided strap to the shell off the battery and already had the long neg ran off the starter bolt , that I couldn't get off after the engine was put in , ran it back and hooked it to the shell.

and the big ground from t/c to block in the factory location, and a ground strap to the fire wall.
and have the Pro-M main ground to the timing cover, and main power to the solenoid on the drivers fender, and the grounds in the back
for the reverse lock out on the T56 Magnum. I decided to use a toggle switch, just have to remember to use it.

got the pigtail extended and up thru the tunnel, and the switch I'll mount in the console

and got the over flow tank and Radiator all done , I had the factory hold downs on the radiator but this looks a lot better.


is that over flow tank too Low ? from searching around it looks Ok
last main thing I've got the exhaust roughed in, I've read you need about 18" past the WB sensors to avoid cold air hitting them.

so until I can drive it to the Muffler shop , I hope this will do.

should I tie up the pipes at the cross member with re-bar tie wire, is that too much weight hanging of the heads?

I like how it looks but the drivers side, is really close to the cross member ?? I hope the shop can use a radius bend there :surprise: :nerd:
and last of the exhaust , looks like I left the pass side droop down a little, it wont be on there real long ,

I've got a real clean set of Borla Pro - XS 3" mufflers to go on it at the Muffler shop
I tied my t56 reverse lock out into the brake lights.
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