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"Ole - Red" and a FordStrokers 427 Dart Build.

21979 Views 133 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  ndmus88gteng
well here we Go !!!!!!! I'm finally going to start a new build thread....

a little back drop on "ole Red" , I did a "TFS HCI" build thread a couple years ago, other than swapping a couple engines and transmissions that's about the most I've done.

a couple pics, it actually looked pretty good when I was done with it.

it really only lasted about 3,000 miles , I never got the tune right and it started losing oil pressure, so I decided I was going to get a good engine somewhere??

and decided to start tearing it down about 2.5 yrs ago, about middle/latter part of 2012.


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it set up on jack stands for a while and I finally started clearing out my engine bay.

along with the interior/ dash as I'm also rebuilding the heat box with both new coils for heat and a/c .


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I got it stripped down , cleaned up decent, and it set for a while.

I sent the 89 mas air harness I bought from the Corral, along with the engine and head light and 02 harness's out to be cleaned and re wrapped at McCullys Racing engines, Jason did a real nice job with them.

first the empty engine bay with junk in it still


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finally a clean engine bay

That was a lot of work and it sit a while more.:rofl:


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I found some paint that was supposed to be a factory match for my " Porno Red" ,looks pretty decent

got it all painted, the heat box all rebuilt, new sensor in it, new Blower motor , coils, every piece in that bad boy.

ran some harness's , ( just laid in for now ) , put head lights back in, all new small pieces, new wiper motor, I painted black, new washer fluid reservoir, Brake booster , just everything I can find either Ford or MotorCraft is new so far going back in. down to the a/c check valve.

she's going to get a " Hose Wizards " a/c system so I can cruise wit the a/c on :cool:

and topped it off with a Boss Inc. Cobra R 95 style hood.


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Thanks for the reply's so far.

it's took a while to get to this point, and right after Thanksgiving I put a deposit on an engine from FordStrokers,
I actually changed direction about 3 times since then, Lol we all know how that goes sometimes.

first I was going to get a stock block 347 , and I got to thinking it would be REAL nice not to have to worry about the stock block, so---
I decided to step it up to a Dart block 363 , might as well get a few more cubes huh!!
then the Corral ( thanks a bunch too :salute:) informed me my TF 190 11R street heads were too Small, imagine that, lol J/K :)

so I decided to step up to a 427 Dart block, with some new TEA TF 225 high-ports and Nichole has been Great in dealing with the parts and stuff.
I'm even sending in some parts I have to go along with the complete Longblock they are going to build for me.

I've got to send in the cam sheet before we talk about the exact combo, compression ect.

but so far we've decide on

Dart 427
Scat steel/h-beam 4340 4.0 , 6.2 internal balance
Weisco 2618 forged (22cc dish High port)
TEA 225 TF H P 58cc
custom cam Billet HR

still to be determined the induction , exh, and computer control.

I'm thinking a super vic, 2828, or similar that uses the stock water neck. Jim will port match to heads.

so far that's about it

it's going in my 88 GT along with a T-56 magnum trans, I have MM full length sub frame conn on the car, MM lower control arms new upper bushings,

my goal is to have about just over 500 RWHP, streetable, not a daily driver but run like it could be.
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a little progress update.

I decided to go with the Super Vic 29245 EFI intake had it sent to Tmoss for a port job and match to the TEA 225Hi-ports, and shipped to FordStrokers.

and decided after talking with Brian to get a Freezy Custom Cam, it will also be shipped to Jim, :joy::joy:

talked and emailed with Brian several times and never once felt rushed or like he was pushed to finish the profile. and make power to 6800-7000 rpm, :D

only thing I'm probably going to have to swap rear gears, with the 2.97 T-56 , in 6th gear it would rpm pretty low.

so that's cool, I'll try to determine which gear to go with as the build progress's . any input is welcome. :salute:

a FordStroker 427 with a Custom Freezy cam,,, sounds Sweet :D
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Sounds like a interesting build. Looks good so far. Can't wait to see how it runs.
Thanks , it is gonna take a while, I'm actually packing up some stuff right now to send to Jim, Ole Red has been on jack stands for about 2.5 plus years, so I really cant wait till she gets going again, all New , all rebuilt!! Bigger and Better, Lol,

I have a FlowKooler water pump, any opinions on that, and here's a few more things going to FordStrokers tomorrow.

302 hi flow water pump

can you guys give some opinions on this pump please :salute:

on EDIT: forget the Hi-Flow Nicholes getting an Eddie


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I ended up having Nichole get an edelbrock waterpump for the build that's what the mostly use she said.
hey I'm about to spring for the complete Pro-m system.

on EDIT: I'm sticking with the 4 hole TB , no sense in cheaping out now, getting down to the end Almost!!!!
Thanks Guys
ok a little more progress report

I'm going to use the Hose Wizard a/c kit on this build, Ford Strokers is going to get all the front acc and all I'll have to send in is the Sanden compressor out of the kit.

Glenn told me I need a 150 amp alternator, and a fan that will push 4200 cfm's . and if I wanted to do a stereo upgrade would I need a bigger alternator.

so I'm going to have to sell the flex Black magic that came with the Flex 52185 rad/fan combo kit,

I'm getting the Flex 298 dual 13.5 28amp 4600 cfm max fan kit and controller#30332

Indy said my 2.25" thick radiator is Too thick for the a/c condenser to get the correct amout of air. that I should use a 2" thick one.

I've got 400 cfm more than whats required for the Hose Wizard kit, and the fan fits the rad perfect.

is it a bad combo or will it work just fine, I just dont think a 1/4" thickness difference would make the a/c not work, but then again,
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a little more progress

I got the complete Pro-M engine management system , talked with Chris , I did get the 4 hole throttle body for the Super-Vic efi intake, and the wiring harness for an 88 GT Mustang.

the only upgrades were the billet throttle body option for 100 more.

can I get some rwhp estimates, I would like to take it to the track, will it go fast enough to get kicked out because of no safety gear?

I've never run a car at the track, 1/8 or 1/4 mile. I would like to try that a few times, starting out easy and getting the feel for more!!

Thanks for any rwhp estimates still need to get exhaust and a March serpentine setup, I'm talking with Nichole on that now, and headers/exh, and fuel system, any guidance on that would be greatly appreciated
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haven't updated in a Long time, so here goes.

after we finished our big summer time job at work, me and a buddy finally went to work on it again.

we rebuilt the doors , new run channel molds, guide bushings, new locks all around, new handles, mirrors, painted the drip rails, and trim around the out side the windows,

cleaned up all the lock/linkage parts, and sprayed everything with white lithium grease , hooked up the battery to the windows to make sure everything works , and it works like new , I thought we may have to replace a motor, but this fixed the windows.
then we tore out the rest of the fuel system, brake/fuel lines, all the e-brake cables.
took about 11 cans of Gunk engine degreaser and cleaned the whole bottom side.

straightened up the pinch welds, resealed the edges of them.

then we coated the whole bottom side with about 12 cans Rustoleum professional undercoating, and painted it with about 10 cans of automotive 2,000 degree high heat paint, didn't get a good pic of that, but you can see it in the one, I'm holding up one of the tranny plugs, it looks pretty good underneath now.
actually we rebuilt the rear drums completely, MM rear coil-over conversion with bilstein shocks, painted the new drums ,
before we did the bottom and fender wells, lol, we had all the rear stuff first

I had got a SS brake line set a while back, turns out the only parts that fit, were the 2 small pieces on the rear axle,

I can't remember where I think CJ's is where we got it, and upgraded to the stainless braided soft line,
next we worked on the K-member, we cross corner checked it with the rear lca front bolts, we had 4 plumb bobs, so we wouldn't have to keep moving them .

we got the cross corner pretty easy, it all seemed too easy. :)
then we got the front suspension stuff done.

got it where we could mount the front tires on it, and set it on the ground, it was the first time in over 2.5 years the car sit on the ground , it felt like a Great day, :)
then we did the FR manual rack ,tried to keep the rack centered with the steering wheel, ( we'll see how that works out , lol ) bench bled the MC , got the brake lines tied in with a new Ford Racing Prop valve, looked at the Brake sticky and learned how to gut the stock Prop valve. got the brakes all bled out.

then we noticed a problem, the drivers side tire was just hitting the front of the wheel well when cut all the way to the right, the pass side had plenty of room.

it looked over an inch off easy!

we had the cross corner exactly set right, I don't know what's up with it.

we had the K-member pulled all the way , with a ratchet strap, a 750 lb rated, camo strap, not a little orange one. lol.

got out a bit and took out most the bolts and pulled it around a bit, and measured the front to rear wheels, to get both sides the same.

started grinding on that sucker. got the wheels the same measurement front to rear , on both sides, and called it good.

the front wheel gap looks about the same now.
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I'm still not sure we have the K-member set right,

we got the engine and tranny put together, put the Pass side header on , out side the car, glad we did, it fit well , but looks like it would have been real hard to do after the engine was in.
also put the starter and the main 1/0 engine ground for the Battery relocate to the rear.
Pro-M wants a ground from the battery to the engine, so I'll do it that way.

one problem we had was lining up the motor mount studs with the slots in the K-member.

I hope we didn't mess up anything, but we used a strap, to pull the transmission side ways , enough to get the drivers side stud in the slot, ( had to pull it to the pass. side of the car about an inch?? ). but we had to pull it pretty hard.
I hope we didn't tear up anything, none of this stuff is cheap, T-56 , Dart 427,,,

we had to adjust the tranny mount just a little, to get the driveshaft and shifter centered looking in the tunnel, and shifter hole.
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we got the assembly set in place, that was a pain in the butt.

started on the Pro-M harness and 4 Hole TB. Edel fuel rails, 42 Lb injectors,

the AED Bracket wouldn't clear the Edel Fuel rails, the pro-M bracket , ( the little chrome bracket on right side, the Lokar adjuster is hooked to) it worked well.

we had to clearance the TB linkage just a touch, so it wouldn't hit the filter base, and we used the stock Ford inner cable, it attached to the peddle correctly.
the Lokar cable end didn't work right there.

used the Lokar sheath and linkage , and the Pro-M bracket , adjusted the cable , and it works perfect, the throttle snaps closed, and opens fully 90 degrees when you mash the go pedal.
looks awesome, its amazing how much better the underside looks just cleaning the gunk off. i did mine this summer. how close are you to firing it up? keep us updated.
Thanks , if I can get a few details worked out, we're hoping to fire it in 2-4 weeks .

we need to install the new fuel system, relocate battery to back.

get a few details on the Pro-M system, few wires to delete, and figure out what kind of lap-top to get to use with the Pro-M system?

and the wiring on the T-56 still.

and figure where to mount the coils near the plugs,

over all it's going together pretty good.
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