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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, it's not working. I try to test it by turning the car on, holding the WOT switch and having someone rev it to the set RPMs to spray. Well, I thought it was the window switch so I decided that I'd bypass it by disconnecting the yellow wire and grounding the part that goes to the FPSS. Fuel didn't come out. I even tried opening the n2o bottle and nothing. The purge works. I can hear all the solenoids click on so I know they work. Anyone have any idea what could possibly be the problem? I feel like a ricer with only the purge working and not the nitrous.

-Code
 

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wot ,ground the yellow,fps connect both wires together.
If that does not work check all wiring over.
I hope the nozzle is not spraying in the motor
 

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Code, I'm going to post up a few pictures/diagrams so that we can use them for a quick reference during this discussion.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Poitininc. said:
wot ,ground the yellow,fps connect both wires together.
If that does not work check all wiring over.
I hope the nozzle is not spraying in the motor
Tomorrow I'm going to go ahead and disconnect the FPSS and ground to the battery. If that doesn't work - I have a solenoid wiring problem (I think...). If it does work, I have a FPSS problem and I'll either play with it to get it working or ditch it all together as I'm getting a 255lph in-tank pump soon and a 390 inline as well down the line. BTW, it's all spraying into a urine sample cup (hospital has a lot of stuff in their storage rooms :p ).

Mike - I just want to thank you for all your help. I'm going to try to post pictures of my system if these methods do not work.

-Code
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Found the problem... FPSS. Now, should I bypass it and just run a 75 shot until I get a 255lph intank pump or should I try and adjust the thing?

-Code
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I bypassed it since I was turning the thing for a half an hour counter-clockwise and the solenoids were still not clicking on. I figure with a 50 shot I should be alright. I won't go higher than a 50. I'll be getting a 255lph intank pump soon so do you guys feel that this is alright or what? NX says it's optional... My current pump in my car right now is a 130lph.

-Code
 

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While in theory those FPSS are a good feature I've heard way more people having problems with them and taking them off than those who actually use and like them.
 

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Tom, very happy that you figured out the problem. I wouldn't even worry about a 75 shot, it'll survive.

I agree that the FPSS can be a little sketchy. To me they are more trouble than they are worth. They are simply too inaccurate.

We might start development of a 'smart' FPSS that will utilize a microprocessor to make the device much more relilable and useful.
 

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I use mine and works great. The reason I use one is that sometimes when the nitrous is turned on, the fuel pressure can drop below the set limit, which if unchecked could cause a lean condition. I turned mine clockwise, I believe to get it to the correct position, but I can't remember. You may have the wrong one for your application. An ohmeter hooked across the terminals with no power going to them would be the easiest way to figure it out. Just keep turning the allen wrench while watching the meter. It worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hmm, well I can hear the solenoids clicking, I wired up my window switch (I KNOW the tap is good) but yet still no fuel coming out? Any ideas? I had someone rev it to over 4k and the pill is a 3600 pill. I didn't open up my n2o bottle because it shouldn't be needed (as far as I know). Any help?

-Code
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
bobtodd said:
Does the window switch go between the arming switch and the WOT switch?
Go between? I have the window switched wired on a switched power source (my acc. outlet near the shifter), it's grouded on the PCM metal bracket, the yellow wire goes to where the FPSS would be and the white wire goes to the orange/white wire on my PCM which is my tach wire.

-Code
 
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