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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I decided to do the whole pi swap thing. Did everything by the book and such. Put it back in the car and started cranking the engine. I didnt see any raise in oil pressure. After cranking 3 or 4 times for a couple seconds a squeak started. I thought it was the cam caps initially but its definitely something internal. Thinking its rings. Decided to take off the oil filter and its completely dry. I dont understand why anything would change with the oil pump. It had awesome oil pressure before. What could be the issue??
 

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Just a dumb question, did you make sure the oil is filled back up after the swap? I’ve done stranger things.

For the filter to be dry that would mean it’s not getting anything through the pick up tube. Did you pull the oil pump off?
 

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Did you primed the system ? You can use the oil sensor to prime the system with a pressurized container.
 

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Fill the oil filter as much as possible , allowing the oil to seep through the filter media, and then prime the engine as noted by a-fast-crown-vic above. The priming operation pushes oil through all rod and main bearings along with pushing it through the oil galleys of the heads and up to the lash adjusters. The best place to do it is at the oil filter casting, either where the oil pressure sensor threads in or by pulling the hex cap plug off and screwing in a pipe thread fitting you can buy from the hardware store. You will have to drain some oil out of the engine to allow room for the oil you will add for the priming. Take your time while priming. You are forcing oil up through the engine. You can use a pump style garden sprayer from Lowes or Home Depot. When you do it, you will hear the oil moving through the block and eventuall filling up the galleys in the heads.
Best not to try to start it again until you prime it.
Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys for all the quick replys. I didnt prime it thinking that I didnt have to considering I just took it isnt a new pump but I have a sprayer I'm about to try and do that. I did put 5.5 quarts in it before I put the engine in. I'm gonna try to get that fitting to pressurize the system and see how it goes. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fill the oil filter as much as possible , allowing the oil to seep through the filter media, and then prime the engine as noted by a-fast-crown-vic above. The priming operation pushes oil through all rod and main bearings along with pushing it through the oil galleys of the heads and up to the lash adjusters. The best place to do it is at the oil filter casting, either where the oil pressure sensor threads in or by pulling the hex cap plug off and screwing in a pipe thread fitting you can buy from the hardware store. You will have to drain some oil out of the engine to allow room for the oil you will add for the priming. Take your time while priming. You are forcing oil up through the engine. You can use a pump style garden sprayer from Lowes or Home Depot. When you do it, you will hear the oil moving through the block and eventuall filling up the galleys in the heads.
Best not to try to start it again until you prime it.
Let us know how it goes.
So just got done priming it. Plenty of oil got up to the heads. There still is a squeaking internalizing when I rotate the crank. Should I try and start it or take the heads off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think the reason it wasnt getting oil to the heads while cranking was because there somehow was air in the system. When I pressurized it air was actually coming out of the heads and hissing. The reason it didnt want to start initially is because I had one of my coil packs facing the wrong way so it wasnt firing correctly lol
 

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User error is the issue 50% of the time unfortunately. Been there plenty of times lol. Glad you got it running.
 

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Bad coolant leak at the back of the head is either a freeze plug which is kinda unlikely or its the **** plastic intake warping and spitting coolant. If its the intake that's easy. If its the freeze plug the engine has to come out.
 

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did you check the heads for the drain screw on the side? When I got my heads ported they took them out. I missed it when I put them back in. Had same issue and also minor leak
 

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I did not even know the plugs (threaded) that I was missing existed until I put it back together and luckily got help from my builder who made a call to modular head shop. Apparently when I had the heads ported, they removed the plugs to clean the heads fully. Stupid mistake cost me a lot of time and aggravation. I hope it works out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So pressure tested it. Oddly enough it was just the coolant tube in the middle of the valley. The orings were literally in pieces when I pulled it off. Now I've just got to get legit windsor valve cover gaskets and there wont be anymore leaks. Thanks yall
 

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So pressure tested it. Oddly enough it was just the coolant tube in the middle of the valley. The orings were literally in pieces when I pulled it off. Now I've just got to get legit windsor valve cover gaskets and there wont be anymore leaks. Thanks yall
Well that could've been a whole lot worse, congrats on finding the problem!
 
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