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Discussion Starter #1
I just dropped off my rotating assembly to be balanced. It's a 306 build with a stock crank and rods and the Summit rebuild kit with the Speed Pro pistons. They're putting the ARP bolts on the rods and conditioning/checking everything. I'm just going to assemble the short block.

Since I've never assembled a short block before I was looking for any advice or research materials that would help with the details and/or provide some step by step methods for checking clearances, how to use the plastigauge correctly, making sure I don't put the pistons in backwards and other simple stuff. :p Any help would be appreciated, thanks guys.
 

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You need a Haynes manual

Get it at the local Barnes and Noble.

The Haynes has better step by step instructions, but the Chilton's version has better tables for torques and tolerances.

Go to B&N, buy a coffee, and read both in one of those big fluffy chairs :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, I'll look at those. I have the Haynes manual for my year Mustang and I also ordered:

"How to Rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines" by Tom Monroe

and

"Engine Builder's Handbook: Inspection Machine Reconditioning
Valvetrain Assembly Blueprinting Degreeing Cams Tools Engine
Assembly" also by Tom Monroe

from Amazon.

Anybody have any other tips or tricks or things I should watch out for when I start the assembly?
 

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The Monroe book is OK

It was printed in 1978 so there is much info about breaking in flat tappet cams and vaccumm distributor rebuilds :D

The plastiguage info you wanted in there and along with good step by step instructions.

I liked this book the best.

A Good Book
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Already have that one, Bob, and the second one he did on suspension. I heard that the Monroe books were a little dated, but the block itself hasn't changed, from what I've heard. I'm mostly looking for info on putting the assembly back in the block.

I've done the top-half of the motor (heads, cam and intake), now I'm doing the bottom half. It doesn't sound too complicated, but simple mistakes, like putting in a bearing wrong or mixing up the pistons can ruin your whole winter, so I'm being a little paranoid.
 

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Listen, all you need tool wise is;

ring compersor
torqe wrench
sockets, wrenches
plasti-gage
rubber hammer
assembly lube
and a gage to check your ring gap

That all you will need. The rod bolt tq. specs are 21-25 f.p. of torqe

The main bearing caps are 60-70 foot pounds.
Make sure you use lube on every moving part. Oh, and make sure you put the oil pump shaft in the oil pump side, i forgot that once, man was i ticked off.
Thats really all there is to it. Easy, done in less than 1 1/2 hours
 

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OH, it's so much fun trying to drop the pump driveshaft in from up top. Being that it's not a straight drop, just a little off center. WooHoo.... That's one thing I never remembered to do, and man, what a pain. I only had it come out of the pump once though, after pulling my distributor, no oil pressure. Never has come out other than that. I'm not sure it can with the distributor in.
 
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