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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
engine is finally back in the car. Now comes the fun of installing hooking everything up, getting the tranny in, and getting it cranked. Today is going to be a long day. I still need to torque the front control arms. I’ve been waiting to get the engine back in so they would sit in the proper angle from the weight.

in the process of reinstalling the power steering pump last night, I jacked up the pressure hose that goes to the hydroboost. Itightened the 3 accessible bolts down not thinking about the one behind the pressure linecoming out of the bottom of the pump. As the pump snugged up to the block, the bolt broke the line where it comes out of the fitting. Thankfully they had the line at Oreilly so I went last night and picked one up. First thing I’ve had to replace that was my fault, lol.

for today, I’m hoping to get theline replaced, get theintake manifold in,and hook up all electrical and vacuumlines in the engine. If I can get the transmission in, great. If not, no big deal. Thankfully I’ll have more daylight in the evenings now, so that should help move things along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
This kid was lucky he didn’t burn the car down. I had a fuse blow in my Ram and went into the mustangs fuse box looking to rob one (different size fuses anyway). While I was poking around in the fuse box, I noticed something strange. There was a piece of wire hanging out of from between 2 of the Maxi fuses. The headlamp fuse looks a bit strange, so I pulled it.

apparently, as he was blowing fuses, instead of trying to figure out the cause, he just decided it was best to put a wire between the blades to eliminate the protection of the fuse. Needless to say, it generated a bit of heat at some point.
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Slowly making progress as time allows. I managed to get the transmission and driveshaft back in this weekend. I'm hoping that never has to come back out again. Without a transmission jack, and being limited to the max extension of my jack stands, it was quite difficult to maneuver the transmission to line it up and get it in place. But it is there, all that is left is to torque the drive shaft to pinion flange bolts, but I need to get the rear tires down on the ground (or on ramps) to do that. The next fun thing is going to be the exhaust. Once the exhaust is in, then its back to the engine to finish the top end. Before I get to the interior, I plan to crank it and let it run with the heater on full blast to make sure the heater core is not leaking (as I suspect it will). If good, great, interior goes in. If not, then comes the fun of pulling the dash. I'm hoping to have it running this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Soooooo, I got everything in and got it running. Problem is it sounds like a friggin tractor. There’s something going on that I can’t figure out. The videos really don’t sound quite like it does in person, but should give you an idea. I’m going to make another thread for the videos
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Well, without typing the whole saga again, for your reading pleasure:


and I can’t pin this on the kid, lol. The engine ran fine as best I could tell when I bought it.certainly wasn’t missing like this and running this bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Heads are back off, intake valve on #6 is bent causing no compression. Heads are going to a machine shop to get cleaned up and have a valve job. I ordered some CMS Stage 1 cams which are 4-6 weeks out. I'll probably reassemble what I can and then just be waiting for the cams. That should give me time to get the interior back in and get my rear seat delete built. Unfortunately, my funds for paint and body work have been exhausted on the rest of the car, so it will be mechanically great, but looking a little funky, like a modern rat rod, lol. I'll get back with an update once I get it back together and running again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Timing chain off a little? That sucks. Interesting reading though. I’m awaiting my first real drive as well. What was I thinking getting into a tin can from 83?
Timing was set properly. I think when I released the cam holding tool to access the head bolts the cam spun around pushing the valve into the piston.

interesting is none way to look at it I reckon, lol. I’m just ready to get it all back together already and start driving it. I never imagined I would get this deep into a car this quick and have to do this much work. Not at all what I wanted when I bought it
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Heads got dropped off at the machine shop today. Replacing springs amd vaves, having them inspect/replace seals and guides as needed. They’re going to clean everything as well (including lash adjusters and followers).

I also ordered, received and installed a BBK 73mm throttle body/plenum. I’m thinking I might replace thE CAI as well. It’s a C&L which is a heavy (relatively speaking) pipe, and it has no support, so I either have to install it with it resting in the engine bay, or suspended under tension on the rubber hose sections and bouncing around. Or I can fab some kind of bracket to secure it.

I tried to install the wheel well liners I bought, but they don’t fit right. I can’t get the holes for the retaining push pins lined up. If I do get some of them lined up, the top part popa down out of the lip. I might go to a junkyard and try to get an OEM pullout.

while the heads are being worked on and I’m waiting for my cams (4-6 week delivery), I’m going to try to get the interior finished. The heater core doesn’t seem to be leaking, so I can get the carpet in and get the rear seat delete fabbed up and installed. I have 2 boxes of boom mat I plan to install. Each box has 6x 12x24 inch sheets. I also bought a few cans of Boom mat spray insulation. I’ll most likely use the mat under the front seats and where the rear seats were, and use the spray in the trunk and behind the panels on the rear wheel wells.

I’m really hoping once the heads are fixed this is the last of it. I’ve blown my paint & body budget already. I did find bumper covers on summit for right at $100 each, so when I do get ready that will help. I need to figure out how to align the hood properly, and how to install the hood pins I bought. I bought a set of aero latch pins/latches. The holes where the hood pins were previously at are all bent and jacked up. I can either replace the framing that the radiator mounts to, or find a way to fix it. Option b is looking pretty good, lol.

there is light at the end of the tunnel, but right now it’s still pretty dim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Working on the interior today. I scrubbed the interior, passenger compartment and trunk, with simple green twice. Then scrubbed it with denatured alcohol (I just happen to have a bunch of it) to clean any residue the simple green might leave. I got the boom mat in (knock off dynamat). I used it in the front, where the back seats were and had plenty to put a bunch on the trunk as well. I also had 4 cans of boom mat spray, so I sprayed the trunk and where the back seat was with a couple of layers. I’m going to let it dry overnight and humoring to get the carpet in tomorrow. I need the sun to make an appearance to help flatten out the carpet, but I’ll just deal with what I can get. At least it’s not supposed to rain tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
finally back at it again. New Carpet installed and center console went back in. I cut the holes too big on the carpet. I’m hoping the plastic covers cover it up enough. If not, I’ll figure something out. Maybe use some of the carpet I bought for the seat delete to cover the red paint from the floorboard.

speaking of rear seat delete,I got it finished up today. I used 3/4” MDF and boat deck carpet. Turned out pretty good I think. I didn’t like the back piece sitting back in the cavity where the seat back was, so I put some stand-off blocks in to push it out. It’s not quite flush, but looks much better than it did.

once the seats are back in, then it’s the stereo. That should finish up the interior for now. I ended up having to replace the parts on the door trim where you pull the door ship and that holds the switches. The clips on the ones in the car were broken, of course.

I still need to put the headlights in and test the switch and make sure they all work, but I’m inching closer to having a functioning car again.

cams are due in in a couple of weeks and hopefully I’ll have the heads back and installed by then. Not looking forward to reinstalling the heads with the headers on them, but I figure if they came out they’ll go back in.


and looking at the picture, I realize it needs to be vacuumed, lol.
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Interior and trunk are done. I had to get a new 3rd brake light and new license plate lights, as well as a new wiring harness for the trunk lid. Got those installed, got the board cut for the trunk floor and the carpet glued to it.

Seats are in, stereo is in, shifter and bezel is in, trim around the gauge cluster is back in. I threw the battery in and tested all of the lights and seems like all is working as it should.

for some reason my door speakers aren’t working, but the rest are. Going to have to fix that eventually, but I’m fine with it for now. I need to get the sub and amp in, but I’m missing the rca adapter for my amp. Ordered one on Amazon, so I’m at the mercy of that delivery before I can finish that up.

While I had a few extra minutes, I also replaced all of the connectors for the coil packs. All of the locking tabs were broken on them, so they didn’t clip in right. Also got my new headlights in and tested.

I need to drain the oil, pull the filter and replace the filter adapter gasket. Something around there is dripping oil slowly (it was running on the bottom of the filter). Once that’s done, I’m officially on hold waiting for the heads and cams.

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Find any gems while taking the interior out? Was very surprised how sloppy mine was from the factory, and still find more to this day.
Nothing of note, other than the guy that had it before me was a slob. There was all kinds of junk, dirt, dog hair, trash, nuts and bolts, lighters, etc everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Got my heads back yesterday from getting new valves and springs installed. My plan is to install the headers back onto the heads, then install the heads back into the car. Once the heads are in, then I will install the cams and timing stuff, then the followers last. First thing I need to do is find the hardware for the headers, lol. My garage is a mess with all of the stuff I've had going on, and I cannot for the life of me remember where I put the header bolts. They're in there somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Headers are bolted back to the x pipe, oil drained and I replaced the gasket on the filter housing. I noticed a little oil on the bottom of the filter and wasn’t sure where it came from so I changed the gasket just in case.

I decided to try again to install the fender liners last night. I bought new ones because there weren’t any, and they almost don’t seem big enough. I couldn’t get it behind the lip on the fender, so they were hanging down. I wiggled the drivers side in last night and ended up having to poke new holes for the pushpins but managed to get it over the lip. When I started messing with the drivers side, I saw the CCRM is held in place with zip ties instead of the bolts. Figured I’d cut the zip ties and put proper bolts in it before I did the fender liner. Well, to no surprise (given everything else I’ve discovered), when I cut the zip ties and pulled the module out, I noticed it had cardboard on the back and wrapped up the sides held on by some kind of adhesive. When I started to peel the cardboard off, I realized there was no backing on the ccrm, so essentially the only thing to protect the circuit board from water ingress was a piece of cardboard, lol. Needless to say, that cost me more money to buy a new one. While I was spending money, I went ahead and bought new harness pigtails for the headlights and parking lights because the retaining clips are gone from all of them. Had to do the same for all of the coils as well as those were gone too.

The car has a cobra r bumper on it with no fog lights. While I was under it messing with the fender liner, I found the fog light wiring tied around a pressure line below the radiator, lol. I’m going to flip the switch and see if there’s power to them and if so, when I buy the new bumper I’ll get some fog lights for it.

for my own freedom, I hope like hell I never see this kid again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I got it running finally, but cant keep it running.


I did manage to drive it a couple of times (on a route that did not require me to stop). It drives good and pulls hard. Sounds great with the cams and exhaust. A completely different sound than I've heard on a 2v. I dig it. Unfortunately, it dies once it's warmed up. It cranks right back up, but immediately stalls out again.

Everything else is done except for the hood, cowl, and windshield wiper arms. Once I get the stalling issue fixed, I'll put all that back on and it'll be ready to drive.

I did fix all of the holes in the trunk lid. At some point, it had an aftermarket spoiler on it. There was 5 big oblong holes on the back edge of the trunk lid. Being that I just cleaned the trunk and replaced the carpet, wood, and interior trim in there, I needed to fix the holes. I sanded them down, filled them with bondo glass, sanded that, filled it with body filler, sanded that smooth, primered the whole top of the trunk, then painted it. I painted it with a can of red enamel caliper paint I had in the garage, lol. I plan to have all of the dings fixed, bumpers replaced, and have the car painted, so I'm not too concerned with the quality of my temporary paint job on the trunk. All I wanted was to fill the holes and for it to be red like the rest of the car. Mission accomplished, but it's obvious it was rattle canned, lol. In the right light, it looks good. Move a little and you can see the uneven spray. I could wet sand it and clear coat it, but like I said, it's going to get a full paint job in the future, so I'm not worried.

Vehicle Watercraft Hood Bumper Wood


This one is in the good light, where the paint doesnt look bad.
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And in this one, you can see the shoddy job quite well, lol
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
The drama continues. Still having an issue with it stalling. I've looked everywhere I can for a vacuum leak (based on the very strange vacuum log from the last data log I took) but cannot find one. I tried using a propane torch (unlit of course) to find anything, and nothing. I've got a can of carb cleaner I might try, but I'm just not a fan of that method from a safety standpoint. After some reading and digging, I'm beginning to think I need a tune, so, I ordered a tune, lol. I'm expecting it to arrive this week hopefully. I gave them all of the cam specs, all of the mods the car has, and explained my issue. I'm hoping it fixes the stalling issue. If not, I might be forced to go have it dyno tuned. I may do that anyway at some point, I'm just hoping to not have to rent a trailer to take it across houston to have it tuned. If this tune works, I can at least drive it there.

I got the hood on, cowl on and windshield wipers back on. All seems to be working well. Also got the AeorCatch above panel hood pin and latches installed. It was a bit unnerving to cut large holes in the hood, but better than the fiberglass hood flying up.

I'll update how the tune works out once I get it. I got an 87 octane tune and a 91 octane tune. Since I plan to drive the car daily, I figure the 87 tune would be best while gas prices are absurd. I've got my fingers crossed, but I'm not holding my breath.

In the middle of this saga, my wife and I have decided to sell our house and move to an apartment. So, I'm now losing my garage, which is going to hurt. I do plan to rent a drive in storage room to act as my garage, where I'll keep my workbench, compressor, and all of my tools, but it still sucks not having that right outside my back door. But given the housing market, my job relocating and my wife applying for a new role at a different location, the timing was right and in the end it will be worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I got the tune and got it loaded. Seems to have fixed the running rich issue, but it’s still stalling out. I data logged it again, and it generally looks better, I except vacuum. The vacuum is all over the place. Pic attached for comedic value. Vacuum looks to be constantly bouncing from 0” to 30”, with no rhyme or reason.
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I bought an actual vacuum gauge today and hooked it up on the upper plenum where the PCV line ties in. The mechanical gauge at idle was holding steady at 15”-15.5” once the car warmed up and the idle speed settled. No bouncing like the log shows. That tells me that whatever sensor reads the vacuum is jacked up, but I have no idea what sensor that is. It’s not the fuel rail pressure sensor, being that I just replaced that yesterday.

I decided I wanted to run a smoke test to see if I could pinpoint any vacuum leaks, so I McGuyver’d a home made smoke tester out of a pickle jar, a soldering iron, bic pen, sock soaked in baby oil, and a 12v air compressor, lol. Worked like a champ and only cost me a handful of dollars. I found a tiny pinhole leak where the IAT sensor mounts in the air intake tube (so small you can hardly see the hole). More concerning is a MASSIVE leak where the passenger valve cover meets the head by the firewall. It was bad, the smoke was billowing out. I’m not sure if a leak at the valve cover will cause an idle issue, but it will result in an oil leak, so now I have to pull that back off and fix it.

at this point, while I’m in there, I’m considering putting the stock cams back in and see if the problem goes away. If it does, I’ll just sell the CMS cams and adjustable crank gear and run stock cams. I’m tired of messing with it, and while it pulls hard and I love the sound at idle, if I can’t drive it it isn’t doing me any good.
 
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