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Sounds like you have yourself one hell of a project. You should post up some pictures of the progress.

When it comes time to replace the bumpers, let me know. I'm selling the front bumper, rear bumper, hood and spoiler off my 2004 GT. If you are local to southern California it might be a good option for you. Car has been stored inside its entire life and only has 14k miles on it.

Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Car Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Sounds like you have yourself one hell of a project. You should post up some pictures of the progress.

When it comes time to replace the bumpers, let me know. I'm selling the front bumper, rear bumper, hood and spoiler off my 2004 GT. If you are local to southern California it might be a good option for you. Car has been stored inside its entire life and only has 14k miles on it.

View attachment 1082098
I could use all of that except the spoiler, but unfortunately I’m in southeast Texas. I have no idea how much it would cost to ship. And that looks like the same color as mine (paint code ES).

That has to be the cleanest 99-04 mustang I’ve seen in easily 15 years. With only 14k miles, it’s barely broken in!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I’ll see if I can attach a few pics of it. I just haven’t taken many.

this one is from the ad when I found it
Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Hood


this is some time after I got it home and started accumulating the first few parts for it.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Motor vehicle


and this is how it currently sits. I should have my new rear ended back in a few days and can hopefully get it in along with the new rear suspension and get it off the Jack stands.
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive lighting


and just for comedic value, this is the pinion gear they pulled out of the rear end that was in it. It was basically seized up when I pulled it. I fought it rocking it back and forth for a good 10 minutes just trying to push it out of my garage. Now I know why, lol.
Hand Automotive tire Finger Artisan Engineering
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Finally a bit of good news. I got the rear end back. The replacement was in good order, axles were good. they replaced the LSD, ring and pinion. Went from 3.27 to 3.73, no issues with the junk yard rear. I'll be reinstalling the rear end along with new J&M upper and lower control arms, all new poly bushings, new poly axle bushings for the upper control arms, new pinion snubber, new SVE springs and shocks (cant remember the brand for the shocks).

One of the first things I ordered for the car was a full exhaust. I ordered a Magnaflow catback, BBK catted x-pipe and BBK tuned length shorty headers. I got the catback a week or so after I ordered it, but the headers and x-pipe never showed. After several times of back and forth with t Steeda, and a lot of "it will be delivered on xxx date" and it not showing up, I told them this morning if it hasn't shipped and they cannot provide a tracking number to just cancel the order. I ordered them on 12/16 for reference. They got back and said it hasn't shipped, they cancelled it, and I should have my refund in a few days. I checked with Americanmuscle.com and they had them on the shelf, so I orderd them. Got my tracking number within an hour and expected delivery is currently Sunday or Monday.

got the timing cover off today before my fingers and toes went numb thanks to the cold. I've got new chains, guides, tensioners, gears, and front seal. I also bought a new oil pump for good measure since there was some sludge in the pan. Heads come off next time I get a chance so I can check the cylinders, pistons and heads out, and replace the head gaskets. Once I get those replaced and get he heads back on, it will be reassembling time for the engine. All the parts are in boxes in the garage. It'll be fun to dig through the 30 or so boxes to find parts.

I have a box with some dynamat, a harmonic balancer and a few other items that was mistakenly shipped to Utah. I need that box so I can finish up cleaning the interior and installing the sound deadener so that I can get the new carpet in and rear seat delete before I get my seats back. I'll probably need more, but the two packs will get me started. I bought the 2mm thick sheets to keep the additional weight down. I plan to cover the floorboard, under where the back seats were, behind the rear trim panels (getting rid of the funky stock insulation), in the trunk floor, and possibly the roof under the new headliner (or on top of depending on how you look at it).

I bought some high temp primer and some red caliper paint so I can paint the calipers before I put it all back together for a little extra touch. When I went to the junk yard to get the rear end, they had staggered set of 17x9 and 17x10 chrome Cobra wheels with tires on them for sale. I'm going to see if they will work a deal on trade for my 17x9 and 17x10.5 black Bullit wheels (I absolutely hate black wheels on any vehicle). If they wont, I may just buy them outright. they're asking $850 including tires, and they look brand new. they go for $1700 on LMR with tires, so not a bad deal at $850.

I'll probably pick up a tuner before I get it running. The extra oomph will be nice, but mostly I want it to correct the speedo for the the gear change and to permanently turn off the traction control so I don't need the switch (if that's a function of the tuner).

Before I get to putting it all back together, does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the alternator bolts? I know it's a long shot, but figured I'd ask. One of them was apparently good and stuck, and sheared right where it starts into the block, so there's nothing to get a bite on to get it out. I will have to drill it and use an ez-out, or drill and tap it oversize. If I can get it with an ez-out, I need a replacement. If I have to drill and tap, I can make it whatever I need.

I'll get and post some pics as I start putting it back together. I have a few from today, but my bride is on my phone so I cant post them for now.
 

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Finally a bit of good news. I got the rear end back. The replacement was in good order, axles were good. they replaced the LSD, ring and pinion. Went from 3.27 to 3.73, no issues with the junk yard rear. I'll be reinstalling the rear end along with new J&M upper and lower control arms, all new poly bushings, new poly axle bushings for the upper control arms, new pinion snubber, new SVE springs and shocks (cant remember the brand for the shocks).

One of the first things I ordered for the car was a full exhaust. I ordered a Magnaflow catback, BBK catted x-pipe and BBK tuned length shorty headers. I got the catback a week or so after I ordered it, but the headers and x-pipe never showed. After several times of back and forth with t Steeda, and a lot of "it will be delivered on xxx date" and it not showing up, I told them this morning if it hasn't shipped and they cannot provide a tracking number to just cancel the order. I ordered them on 12/16 for reference. They got back and said it hasn't shipped, they cancelled it, and I should have my refund in a few days. I checked with Americanmuscle.com and they had them on the shelf, so I orderd them. Got my tracking number within an hour and expected delivery is currently Sunday or Monday.

got the timing cover off today before my fingers and toes went numb thanks to the cold. I've got new chains, guides, tensioners, gears, and front seal. I also bought a new oil pump for good measure since there was some sludge in the pan. Heads come off next time I get a chance so I can check the cylinders, pistons and heads out, and replace the head gaskets. Once I get those replaced and get he heads back on, it will be reassembling time for the engine. All the parts are in boxes in the garage. It'll be fun to dig through the 30 or so boxes to find parts.

I have a box with some dynamat, a harmonic balancer and a few other items that was mistakenly shipped to Utah. I need that box so I can finish up cleaning the interior and installing the sound deadener so that I can get the new carpet in and rear seat delete before I get my seats back. I'll probably need more, but the two packs will get me started. I bought the 2mm thick sheets to keep the additional weight down. I plan to cover the floorboard, under where the back seats were, behind the rear trim panels (getting rid of the funky stock insulation), in the trunk floor, and possibly the roof under the new headliner (or on top of depending on how you look at it).

I bought some high temp primer and some red caliper paint so I can paint the calipers before I put it all back together for a little extra touch. When I went to the junk yard to get the rear end, they had staggered set of 17x9 and 17x10 chrome Cobra wheels with tires on them for sale. I'm going to see if they will work a deal on trade for my 17x9 and 17x10.5 black Bullit wheels (I absolutely hate black wheels on any vehicle). If they wont, I may just buy them outright. they're asking $850 including tires, and they look brand new. they go for $1700 on LMR with tires, so not a bad deal at $850.

I'll probably pick up a tuner before I get it running. The extra oomph will be nice, but mostly I want it to correct the speedo for the the gear change and to permanently turn off the traction control so I don't need the switch (if that's a function of the tuner).

Before I get to putting it all back together, does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the alternator bolts? I know it's a long shot, but figured I'd ask. One of them was apparently good and stuck, and sheared right where it starts into the block, so there's nothing to get a bite on to get it out. I will have to drill it and use an ez-out, or drill and tap it oversize. If I can get it with an ez-out, I need a replacement. If I have to drill and tap, I can make it whatever I need.

I'll get and post some pics as I start putting it back together. I have a few from today, but my bride is on my phone so I cant post them for now.
If you have a good one the same size you can take it to a Hardware Store to match up. I would bet the Dealer has a book somewhere with that information but I could be wrong. Hopefully the EZ-OUT will work, you could also heli-coil/keensert too. Nice to see you making progress, damn I remember all of the hard work I had put into my projects(If I had just a dollar for every hour.....).
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Got the timing chain, tensioners and guides swapped out today, along with the head gaskets. Cylinders looked good and the heads looked good. Not a ton of carbon buildup on any of it. I cleaned up what I could with a rag and some acetone, but didn’t want to get too involved because it all looked pretty good as is.

hoping to get the timing cover back on soon, but had a package from LMR that got misdirected to Utah for some reason. It is now in Colorado headed back, so should get it soon. It has my harmonic balancer and bolt in it, so I need it before I can put the engine back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Well, I finally got the broken alternator bolt problem fixed. Now I have to open up the mounting hole in the alternator a touch to accept a larger bolt.

I tried drilling and using a bolt extractor since it was broken off flush. I tried spiral extractors first, but no dice. Then I tried a square style extractor and managed to break it off flush as well. I then bought a welder and tried welding a nut onto what little was sticking out of the back side. Had no luck with that (bought a cheap flux core welder with minimal adjustability). Out of desperation, I butt welded a bolt to the stub, and as you can well imagine by now managed to shear it off flush with the block as well. Seems as though this alternator bolt is basically welded in place due to corrosion. I tried drilling it so I could punch out the broken extractor, and broke the drill bit off flush on the back side.

Now, with a hardened steel extractor broken off flush on the front, and a hardened steel drill bit broken off flush on the back, I went to my last resort and broke out the dremmel. After wearing down and breaking 5 grinding stones, then breaking 4 drill bits, I finally got the remnants of the old bolt out, oversized the hole and tapped it. Took me most of the day messing with it. Fun stuff.

tonight I focused my efforts on the rear end. I got the axle bushings for the rear control arms swapped out for some prothane poly bushings, got my J&M upper control arms on, and got the bushings in them for the arm to body mount. Got the bushings in the lower arms and spring isolators on as well. All poly bushings in the rear now and poly isolators. It was getting late and I didn’t want to start and not finish, so I packed it in for the night. Next time I get a chance to work on it, the rear ended will go back in and my bride will be happy again.

I’m planning to clean and paint my calipers, and would prefer to do it before I reassemble the rear end (especially while I have ample room right now), but I need to get it off the Jack stands for the time being. I’ll just have to mask everything and paint them after it’s all installed so I can do it in a day. I may go ahead and do my rear sway bar too while it is out of the car.

Got a set of power stop slotted & drilled rotors and ceramic pads to replace the OeM brakes as well. I have the same brakes on my Ram and they are fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well, the rear end is back in it. J&M upper and lower control arms, SVE springs, new poly spring isolators, new pinion snubber, and KYB shocks. I have some new calipers on the way. Planning to paint them red to match the car. I should have them Tuesday, so I expect the rear ended to be finished by Wednesday/Thursday.

I ordered new poly bushings for the front control arms today. Front suspension is next once I finish the back. KYB struts, SVE springs, poly bushings and new sway bar end links with poly bushings. Car already has caster camber plates.

going to replace and paint the front calipers too while I have it apart. When I finish, it will be a mostly new suspension and hopefully ride better than the pile of garbage it did when I bought it.

I will say the bushings in the control arms sucked to install, and I’m certainly not looking forward to the front ones. I’ve read they’re a bear.
Tire Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Car Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Now I’m having an internal debate.

do I save money and have the car painted color it is now?

do I paint it silver? (a ton of silver new edge GTs around, but silver is one of my favorite colors)

Of do I paint it a color like Dove Grey from the late 80s fox bodies. Almost silver with less metallic shine, and a color not a lot of new edge mustangs will have.

I’m leaning toward option 3 to be different, but option a is looking real good from a cost standpoint.
 

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Now I’m having an internal debate.

do I save money and have the car painted color it is now?

do I paint it silver? (a ton of silver new edge GTs around, but silver is one of my favorite colors)

Of do I paint it a color like Dove Grey from the late 80s fox bodies. Almost silver with less metallic shine, and a color not a lot of new edge mustangs will have.

I’m leaning toward option 3 to be different, but option a is looking real good from a cost standpoint.
What is the cost difference? If I could afford it the grey option would be my choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
What is the cost difference? If I could afford it the grey option would be my choice.
That’s the way I’m leaning. I really dig the color and I don’t know if I’d ever see another one in that color on the road.

I don’t know how much the difference would be. Im guess it would be a little bit more, but not a ton. I got an “online estimate” from Maaco and it was only a few hundred dollars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
I gave cleaning and degreasing a shot, lol. Yeah, I don’t have the patience or skin on my fingertipsfor that (I was wearing rubber gloves, but that’s a lot of digging around with the fingers). I did give it a good once over with some rags and some scotchbrite, but just didn’t spend a ton of time messing with it. I was mostly interested in the interface between the oil pan and block, the oil pan itself, and an inch or so up from the pan around the block. Just think it will make it easier to see any issues later should there be any. I started on the timing cover, and gave that up pretty quickly as well. In hindsight, I should have done that while it was off the motor and the bolts were out.

I did get the valve covers back on, and was going to do the headers, but the boss is headed home and it’s dinner time. That will be my next project. Once those are on, then it’s water pump, front of engine accessories, then the motor goes back in. I’m pretty stoked about that, but also a bit concerned because I didn’t take enough photos or label well enough I don’t think. We shall see.

my calipers didn’t show up, so that may delay work on the engine when they do. I really need to get the car down off the Jack stands, but need my new calipers first. Then I still have the front to do. I’m hoping if weather cooperates to be putting the engine and transmission back in this weekend. Then it’s all interior.
 

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I gave cleaning and degreasing a shot, lol. Yeah, I don’t have the patience or skin on my fingertipsfor that (I was wearing rubber gloves, but that’s a lot of digging around with the fingers). I did give it a good once over with some rags and some scotchbrite, but just didn’t spend a ton of time messing with it. I was mostly interested in the interface between the oil pan and block, the oil pan itself, and an inch or so up from the pan around the block. Just think it will make it easier to see any issues later should there be any. I started on the timing cover, and gave that up pretty quickly as well. In hindsight, I should have done that while it was off the motor and the bolts were out.

I did get the valve covers back on, and was going to do the headers, but the boss is headed home and it’s dinner time. That will be my next project. Once those are on, then it’s water pump, front of engine accessories, then the motor goes back in. I’m pretty stoked about that, but also a bit concerned because I didn’t take enough photos or label well enough I don’t think. We shall see.

my calipers didn’t show up, so that may delay work on the engine when they do. I really need to get the car down off the Jack stands, but need my new calipers first. Then I still have the front to do. I’m hoping if weather cooperates to be putting the engine and transmission back in this weekend. Then it’s all interior.
I wonder if a high pressure washer would do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
I wonder if a high pressure washer would do the job.
Probably, but I got enough of the caked on grime off that I’m good with it.

Finally got the headers on the motor. And of course, the studs they sent for the passenger header to x-pipe interface are the incorrect thread. I ended up buying some bolts and cutting the heads off of them. One of them I ran through the hole and put a nut on the back side. The other one wasn’t a through hole, so I put loctite on it and tightened it as tight as I could get it without snapping it off. As of now, motor is almost ready to go back in. Just lacking the front of engine accessories.

got the brakes and wheels back on today. I decided against painting the calipers. I just think red painted stock calipers wouldn’t look great, and it was going to be a ton of work. Plus, I don’t have a climate controlled location to paint. With it being in the 40s and drizzling, I would have had to keep putting it off.

my plan for tomorrow is to get the front end done. Have to get the wheels off, breaks off, springs and struts out, then control arms out. Planning to install poly bushings then back in the car with them, new springs and struts, and new brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
if I ever run across the kid that sold me this car, I might break his kneecaps.

I managed to get the front end disassembled, eventually. The kid put spacers on the front to poke the wheels out, and the hub was slightly larger than it should have been. When they tightened the lug nuts (so damn tight I had to use an old exhaust pipe as a breaker bar), they essentially pressed the wheel onto the spacer hub. I yanked, kicked, pushed and pulled, and tried beating it off with a rubber mallet. They would not budge. I ended up having to go buy a 10 lb sledge and beat the wheels off of the hub.

I got the control arms out and got the old bushings out of one control arm, got the poly bushings in, and tried to reinstall the arm. I tried everything I could, and it flat would not go in. I tried using a Jack to push it into place, and it lifted the car off the Jack stands. I eventually gave up out of frustration and just bought new control arms with factory bushings and ball joints already installed. One of my ball joints was bad anyway, so it needed to be replaced.

I’m almost at my breaking point with this car, but have so much money into it I will never come close to getting it back, so I’m basically stuck with it.

so now, after nearly a month with the rear end gone and the car sitting on Jack stands, the front end is on Jack stands with no wheels or control arms. My wife is super happy😂
 

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I've just read your whole story here, all I can say is if I start Bitching and moaning about having issues with my mustang, I'll read this again.
May the force be with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I've just read your whole story here, all I can say is if I start Bitching and moaning about having issues with my mustang, I'll read this again.
May the force be with you.
Yeah, it’s good stuff, lol.

and I forgot to add, when I went to pull the brakes off the front passenger side, the caliper to bracket bolts were not there. The caliper was literally just sitting on the rotor. I’m lucky it didn’t come off whenI drove the car home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I finally feel like I’m getting somewhere. Aside from the front control arm pivot bolts (which I need to wait till the engine is in to torque), the suspension is done and the brakes are done. SVE springs, J&M upper and lower rear control arms, prothane urethane axle to upper arm bushings, rebuilt rear ended with 3.73 and a new LSD, new OeM front control arms with ball joints, KYB socks in rear and struts in front, new prothane sway bar end links, powerstop K1302 drilled and slotted rotors and carbon fiber pads, and new calipers.

now to fix the water leak on the passenger side, get the engine and transmission in, and replace the interior (and build a rear seat delete) and full stereo system. Easy peasy 😂
 

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I finally feel like I’m getting somewhere. Aside from the front control arm pivot bolts (which I need to wait till the engine is in to torque), the suspension is done and the brakes are done. SVE springs, J&M upper and lower rear control arms, prothane urethane axle to upper arm bushings, rebuilt rear ended with 3.73 and a new LSD, new OeM front control arms with ball joints, KYB socks in rear and struts in front, new prothane sway bar end links, powerstop K1302 drilled and slotted rotors and carbon fiber pads, and new calipers.

now to fix the water leak on the passenger side, get the engine and transmission in, and replace the interior (and build a rear seat delete) and full stereo system. Easy peasy 😂
Good job! You gotta be putting in some serious hours, oh the memories!
 
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