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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. Long time member (former screen name bigred90gt, but lost the login info and had to create a new account). I recently picked up a 2000 GT as a project car. It only has 110k on it (verified by carfax to be correct) but as I've come to find out, those are 110k HARD miles. The kid I bought it from did not take care of it, and cobbled together a bunch of junk on the car. It has a cobra r hood, but is missing the hinges and is only held on by pins in the front. It had pace setter long tubes with no O2 sensors (multiple codes obviously), no h or x pipe just welded in straight pipes, and SLP loudmouth mufflers welded in. At some point, the transmission was replaced with a T3650, which is fine with me as they are rated for more torque than the T45. He had some kind of stage 3 clutch installed, which was completely worthless on a basically stock car. It also had a cheap doorman or similar intake manifold, a C&L cold air intake and one of those worthless throttle body spacers. He lowered it with some cheap ebay springs, but kept the stock struts and shocks, and it rides as horribly as you would think with worn out shocks and cheap springs. The interior needs replacing and the seats need re-covering. It had a cheap double din touch screen in it that was held to the broken center stack with duct tape, lol. It also had some cheap short throw shifter and the shift boot was torn away from the bezel (and tabs on bezel were broken). It seems as though they had some kind of spoiler mounted to it at some point, as there are 4 or 5 large holes drilled on the trunk lid that are covered with electrical tape. It has a cobra front bumper that is broken in a couple of places and bolted in all kinds of wrong. The passenger side wiper arm had no retaining clip, and the cowl and cowl extension were jacked up. The hood latch was broken and bent down also. On the test drive, it ran fine around his neighborhood, but once I got on the highway to come home with it, the transmission started acting crazy to the point I wasnt sure it was going to make it home.

A few days after I bought it, I had to go to Trinidad for work for a few weeks, so it just sat in the garage. I got home and started buying parts, put it on jack stands and started taking as much off of it as I could. I'm currently waiting on my headers and x pipe so I can start putting it back together. So far, this is the list of stuff I've had to buy:

BBK tuned length shorty headers (dont want to mess with long tubes and needing a tune for them)
BBK catted x-pipe
Magnaflow catback
Rebuilt the transmission
King Cobra clutch, throw out bearing and pilot bearing included
New clutch cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant
MGW shifter
New center stack bezel
New shift bezel and boot
new carpet
new headliner
SVE springs and new shocks/struts
New hood latch and cable
hood hinges
hood strut kit
new headlights (old ones are jacked up)
Ford Racing PI intake manifold
New motor mounts (rubber was just about gone on the stock ones)
new COPs
new plugs
new oil pan gasket
New stereo
New O2 sensors
New O2 sensor plugs for the rear (originals were broken)
Rear main seal
Powerstop slotted and drilled rotors with pads
New front fender splash shields (stock were gone)
New struts for the trunk lid

I still need to buy new bumper covers for the front and rear, fix the holes in the trunk lid, then have the car repainted.

My plan was to buy it, replace the suspension and exhaust, and just drive it as is. As I started messing with it, I realized this car was far more of a project than I wanted, but it will be done right when I finish with it. I'm sure I'll run into some questions as I start putting it back together. It's good to have another mustang (this is #5) and I'm looking forward to actually driving it one day, lol. I dont have any pictures, but will get some when I get it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It seems as though I need to add having the rear end rebuilt to the list. Had to push the car out of the garage to pull the engine, and didn’t think I was going to be able to. The rear end was all but locked up (no transmission in the car). I had to rock it back and forth, then it would move a foot or two and lock back up. I really would have passed on this car had I known what it was going to take to get it driving again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I am sure you got it cheap. As long as you plan to drive the wheels off it the cost won't matter, you will have practically a new car done right by you.
If the whole car didn’t need to be rebuilt, it would have been a good deal. Had I known what it was going to take, I would have definitely passed on it and kept looking.

And that is the only saving grace. it will be done right and basically new when I’m finished. At this point, with the engine out and on a stand, I’m thinking about just replacing the head gaskets now. I certainly don’t want to get it back together and then have to do it somewhere later down the line.
 

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If the whole car didn’t need to be rebuilt, it would have been a good deal. Had I known what it was going to take, I would have definitely passed on it and kept looking.

And that is the only saving grace. it will be done right and basically new when I’m finished. At this point, with the engine out and on a stand, I’m thinking about just replacing the head gaskets now. I certainly don’t want to get it back together and then have to do it somewhere later down the line.
I know what you mean. I got a Pinto Wagon for essentially free that had been sitting for 8 years. Money pit hardly descibes it, but a good lesson was learned from it. There is no guarantees with a used car but you can take some basic precautions, first and foremost for me was to take the emotion out of it. The only bummer was one time I rebuilt a Falcon Sprint and it got totaled and even selling parts that were still good I lost my butt on it. Good luck keep posting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I know what you mean. I got a Pinto Wagon for essentially free that had been sitting for 8 years. Money pit hardly descibes it, but a good lesson was learned from it. There is no guarantees with a used car but you can take some basic precautions, first and foremost for me was to take the emotion out of it. The only bummer was one time I rebuilt a Falcon Sprint and it got totaled and even selling parts that were still good I lost my butt on it. Good luck keep posting.
I definitely will. I’ll update on progress, and I’m sure there will be a lot of questions along the way. I’ve done a lot of work on a lot of types of vehicles over the years, but have never pulled an engine.

I pulled the oil pan to replace the gasket and check the internals out. Everything on the inside of the motor looks good as far as I can tell. Oil was jet black, probably hadn’t been changed in a hot minute. The pickup tube had tons of funky buildup in it, to the point it looked near clogged. Apparently, you can no longer buy those (at least not that I could find). I went and bought some Berryman B-12 Chemtool spray and cleaned it out. 5 minutes of spraying and it looks like new.

replaced the clutch cable last night. The cable that was in it was so jacked up I could hardly move the cable back and forth inside the sheath. The way he had it routed was all wrong. It wasn’t attached to the fender / shock tower at all, and it was tucked behind the hard brake lines that run down the drivers side shock tower. This put it at a very steep and awkward angle where it goes into the firewall, and kinked the inner tube. And there was a large section of sheath missing near where the heat shrink section is. It was in bad shape. He did already have a firewall adjuster and quadrant in it, so I’ll give the ones I bought to my brother in law for his fox.

I labeled some of the electrical connectors, but unfortunately was anxious to get the hoist and get it out and I didn’t label all of them. I’m hoping once I put together the connections I know are right the rest should pretty well line up on the harness and that there aren’t a lot of duplicate connectors in the engine bay.

I would like to clean the block up and the valve covers while I have it out. There’s a lot of bright orange surface rust from the coolant leak it had. Any suggestions on that? Maybe some degreaser and scotchbrite.
 

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The only time I have seen a bunch of odd build up on the pickup tube in a 2V was when the timing chain guides started to fail and break up. I would pull the front cover and check/replace the timing chains and guides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The only time I have seen a bunch of odd build up on the pickup tube in a 2V was when the timing chain guides started to fail and break up. I would pull the front cover and check/replace the timing chains and guides.
The buildup was almost like sludge. Who ever owned it through the years was terrible at changing oil, judging by the color of the oil.

do you know what the buildup was that you were seeing when the timing chain guides started breaking up? I would assume it was plastic? I did not see any debris in the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rear end is out of the car and in the bed of my truck. Going to drop it off at a local differential shop tomorrow afternoon. That wasn’t particularly fun by myself, but needed to be done.

found out the kid put Jegs lower control arms on it. And There was only one lower spring isolator on the drivers side. No other spring isolators.

upper control arms are still stock. And all of the bushings need to be replaced. Now I just need to decide if I keep the stock upper control arms, buy new upper control arms and keep the Jegs lowers, or buy a new set of matching upper and lower arm. The paint on the jegs arms is chipping, so I’m thinking I’ll just get both new. Yaaay, more money, lol.
 

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I definitely will. I’ll update on progress, and I’m sure there will be a lot of questions along the way. I’ve done a lot of work on a lot of types of vehicles over the years, but have never pulled an engine.

I pulled the oil pan to replace the gasket and check the internals out. Everything on the inside of the motor looks good as far as I can tell. Oil was jet black, probably hadn’t been changed in a hot minute. The pickup tube had tons of funky buildup in it, to the point it looked near clogged. Apparently, you can no longer buy those (at least not that I could find). I went and bought some Berryman B-12 Chemtool spray and cleaned it out. 5 minutes of spraying and it looks like new.

replaced the clutch cable last night. The cable that was in it was so jacked up I could hardly move the cable back and forth inside the sheath. The way he had it routed was all wrong. It wasn’t attached to the fender / shock tower at all, and it was tucked behind the hard brake lines that run down the drivers side shock tower. This put it at a very steep and awkward angle where it goes into the firewall, and kinked the inner tube. And there was a large section of sheath missing near where the heat shrink section is. It was in bad shape. He did already have a firewall adjuster and quadrant in it, so I’ll give the ones I bought to my brother in law for his fox.

I labeled some of the electrical connectors, but unfortunately was anxious to get the hoist and get it out and I didn’t label all of them. I’m hoping once I put together the connections I know are right the rest should pretty well line up on the harness and that there aren’t a lot of duplicate connectors in the engine bay.

I would like to clean the block up and the valve covers while I have it out. There’s a lot of bright orange surface rust from the coolant leak it had. Any suggestions on that? Maybe some degreaser and scotchbrite.
Degreaser and scotchbrite should do the trick.
 

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The buildup was almost like sludge. Who ever owned it through the years was terrible at changing oil, judging by the color of the oil.

do you know what the buildup was that you were seeing when the timing chain guides started breaking up? I would assume it was plastic? I did not see any debris in the pan.
Yeah, it was the timing chain guide material that was clogging up my pickup tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, it was the timing chain guide material that was clogging up my pickup tube.
Gotcha. There didn’t appear to be any plastic in it that I could see.


on another note, I ordered new control arms, bushings and axle bushings for the rear ended today. Hopefully I’ll have my rear end by the weekend and get it back in and get it off the Jack stands before my wife gets too upset about it, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have always been a clean and paint guy, old school lol.
I’ve been kicking that idea around too. Either red to match the car’s color or blue like old school.

I did decide since I found out my headers aren’t going to be here till february now that I’m goin g to pull the heads and timing cover and replace the timing chains, guides and tensioners, head gaskets and valve cover gaskets while I have time. Might as well freshen up some things since I have the time. That will be a good time to clean up the block and paint if I go that direction. I can also paint the valve covers, or replace them with chrome ones to dress up the engine bay a bit while I’m at it.

I believe I am going to get the front suspension kit as well that has control arm bushings, tie rod ends and sway bar links while I’m in there since I’m replacing the springs and struts. I want the car to last anddo it right the first time. Essentially, unless I see some damage, the heads and rotating assembly are the only things that won’t be touched by the time I’m done.

With the heads off, is there anything I can do or any value in cleaning up the pistons and valve chambers? Maybe the exhaust ports as well? I don’t plan to send it off so it would need to be something commonly available I can do with a little elbow grease. I’ve never gone this far, so I don’t want touse some cleaning agent that causes any corrosion or issues inside the cylinders or heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was debating between re-covering the stock seats or purchasing a pair of Corbeau Sport seats. Drivers seat had multiple tears in it and the passenger seat had a coupe of random punctures. I took them yesterday to a local upholstery shop for a quote, and it was going to cost the same amount to have them recovered as it would to buy the Corbeaus. I decided I would rather give my money to a local family than another big company (given enough
Of that lately, lol). I’m having them covered with black vinyl with red stitching. Since the carpet I bought is black, and I’m planning on doing a home made rear seat delete with black carpet, i think the black will look good, and the red stitching should give it a little character.

Got my head gaskets, water pump, and timing cover gaskets yesterday. Just waiting on the timing chain kit so I can get that going.
 

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I’ve been kicking that idea around too. Either red to match the car’s color or blue like old school.

I did decide since I found out my headers aren’t going to be here till february now that I’m goin g to pull the heads and timing cover and replace the timing chains, guides and tensioners, head gaskets and valve cover gaskets while I have time. Might as well freshen up some things since I have the time. That will be a good time to clean up the block and paint if I go that direction. I can also paint the valve covers, or replace them with chrome ones to dress up the engine bay a bit while I’m at it.

I believe I am going to get the front suspension kit as well that has control arm bushings, tie rod ends and sway bar links while I’m in there since I’m replacing the springs and struts. I want the car to last anddo it right the first time. Essentially, unless I see some damage, the heads and rotating assembly are the only things that won’t be touched by the time I’m done.

With the heads off, is there anything I can do or any value in cleaning up the pistons and valve chambers? Maybe the exhaust ports as well? I don’t plan to send it off so it would need to be something commonly available I can do with a little elbow grease. I’ve never gone this far, so I don’t want touse some cleaning agent that causes any corrosion or issues inside the cylinders or heads.
Are they real bad? They make degreasers safe for aluminum, I would check those out if its bad enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
This car is the gift that keeps on giving (or taking I guess). I just got a call from the shop that has my rear end. apparently, there was no oil in the rear end for unknown time or miles, and everything in it is completely burned up. Guy said he cant even use the housing, it is trashed. So, now I have to find a new rear end assembly, then have it rebuilt. I am going to hate this car by the time I get it back together.
 

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This car is the gift that keeps on giving (or taking I guess). I just got a call from the shop that has my rear end. apparently, there was no oil in the rear end for unknown time or miles, and everything in it is completely burned up. Guy said he cant even use the housing, it is trashed. So, now I have to find a new rear end assembly, then have it rebuilt. I am going to hate this car by the time I get it back together.
I don't think I could screw up a car that much even if I tried. After being part owner in a garage nothing surprises me any more. Had a F 150 that the customer wore the pad and then backing plate(disc brakes)down until the plate popped out along with the piston.I told a customer that her brakes(drum)were worn down to the rivets, months later itis towed in with fluid every where in the rear. I could not remove either drum, I looked in the adjustment slot and saw the self adjuster at the bottom loose. I had to use a slide hammer to rip off the drums, the cost was 3 times the amount if she had brought it back in time. Got many more, I feel for ya.
 
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