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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all I'd like to say hello to all my fellow stangers.

I got a 93 GT and am ready to turn over a 393 stroker engine for the first time and yesterday I wired the relay incorrectly and fried a starter. Since then, I've been unable to get the clutch/neutral safety switch to provide power to the relay and hear that familiar "click" that the relay makes.

The new starter has not yet be installed becuase we want to test for power at the realy first. But while I was at work today my Uncle bypassed the clutch switch and the "click" was heard, which tells me that if I hook up my starter the engine will crank. So what should I do? I don't need the clutch in the car since I'm running a C4 auto. Can I take out the clutch and switch to solve my problem? If I was to run a wire from the ignition to the relay it will make the click.
 

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I "think" I just had the same problem with my T-5 to AOD swap this past weekend, but I had two ASE certified electrical techs helping me. I pulled the manual clutch/brake pedal assembly out and left the two clips hanging and when the car did'nt start we just put a jumper in one of them (we had the schematic from the big chiltons book). I really did'nt have a problem with the starter 'cause it is pretty staight forward on the newer 93 mini starter. I don't know much about elect. stuff, thats why I had my buddies come over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I guess what I'm saying is that the problem lies within the ign. power (key forward to start) to relay circuit. The "plug in" wire that goes onto the relay (smallest terminal) is not getting power when the key is on and the clutch is pressed. Does that mean I lost continuity?? How can I check for continuity?? Or maybe there is a neutral safety switch fuse that I blew.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't know much about electrical either, but I'm taking a crash course now. Seems as if I need to get the reb&blue wire that goes to the realy to activate when I press in the clutch. Is there a fuse for the safety switch that I could of blew up? By a jumper, do you mean you provided power to the switch by connecting the both of them?

Mike_W said:
I "think" I just had the same problem with my T-5 to AOD swap this past weekend, but I had two ASE certified electrical techs helping me. I pulled the manual clutch/brake pedal assembly out and left the two clips hanging and when the car did'nt start we just put a jumper in one of them (we had the schematic from the big chiltons book). I really did'nt have a problem with the starter 'cause it is pretty staight forward on the newer 93 mini starter. I don't know much about elect. stuff, thats why I had my buddies come over.
 

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By jumper, I mean just a small piece of wire w/connecters on the ends to plug into the clip. It just bypasses the old switch that connected them when the clutch pedal was depressed. I would suggest getting a buddy to come by w/ a good tester (it will test continuity) and get the big chiltons book (it has the wiring diagrams in it). I don't know that much about elect., thats why I had my buddies come over, maybe someone else can help a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I got the jumper concept. As far as a buddy goes, all my friends are more stupid than I am so they won't help. I have a good tester and I have the Chilton's book already but I was confused by the continuity thing. I didn't really get the jist of it until it was explained to me today. I'd still like to wach someone do it before I try it for the first time. From what I understand I need to start at the ignition and clutch wires and test from that point on, picking two points on the line and checking for Ohms reading without 12V, and if I have 12V already going to the line then I need to do a voltage reading. One thing is for sure, I'm gonna understand whether I like it or not:)
 
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