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New Hotside being installed

23805 Views 216 Replies 32 Participants Last post by  KEVIN$
I'm making some changes to the hot side of my TT car and I wanted to document the progress. The current hot side for the twin turbos was made by the original owner and there was a lot of issues with it that I hope I can correct.

Issues I hope to correct:
Crappy and ugly tubing bends
The wide front tires hit the exhaust pipes when turning.
Slow Spoolup
No front sway Bar
Need for front coilovers

This new setup starts with some custom CG Fab headers that Caleb made for me that use 2.25" collectors instead of 2.5". I've done a lot of research and discovered that there are plenty of cars making 1200-1800 hp with 2.25" hot side piping and they used the smaller tubing to speed up spool time. Since I'm only going for 900hp I'll be reducing the 2.25" collectors to 2" which should keep the velocity of the exhaust up and hopefully get the turbos spooling faster.

I'm tired of the noise the coilovers make so I'm going to try and put stock front springs on it. This will be a huge challenge so we may need to get creative with the exhaust routing.

Although the car drives fine without a sway bar with the coilovers I'm not sure it will drive the same with the stock springs in it so I'm going to try and get a sway bar on it. This will require a custom sway bar and mounts to be made but I have a preliminary quote for $500 to have one made and an idea of how to mount it. I've mocked up some new mounts which I'll post later but it basically mounts the swaybar farther forward and down.

Here's a pic of the custom headers. The passenger side didn't fit and required the use of a hammer and grinder to gain clearance to the frame and K-member. I'm afraid it's still going to hit the k-member but I didn't want to grind anymore nor dent the headers deeper. Pretty PO'd about needing to do this but not much could be done.
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FINISHED WITH [email protected]!!!!!

Through the 4R70 and through the muffs!!

I also gotta add this was on a Mustang Dyno. He does have a DJ and said it would read a lot more on the DJ.. He was very impressed..

KS
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FINISHED WITH [email protected]!!!!!

Through the 4R70 and through the muffs!!


KS
Wow. That is a healthy corn feed 2V.
Every 3psi made about 30hp and it never really started fading or leveling off too bad.. it LOVES boost which was the goal!

At 24psi it made 840hp
At 27psi it made 870+hp
At 32psi it made 902hp

ks
Are you gonna post the 902 graph?
Are you gonna post the 902 graph?
The 902 graph may not look like much b/c when the boost hit at 4000+ the tires spun but they finally grabbed and continued the pull up to 6200 which is where we shut it down. I'm gonna try to get all the graphs and any log files for my records.

He still has the car b/c I told him to work on the cold start tune and some little driving issues. He'll probably have it for a few more days.

ks
Just for the record there was some changes that I made to the car over the last month in preparation for this day so I want to make sure that if anyone is using this build as a recipe they have the correct info of parts.

1. I ditched the Dual Innovate WB system for two NGK WB's with the "good $160" sensors and I have not had a single issue with this system.

2. A buddy questioned whether two 340 pumps would be enough fuel for E85, 900hp and 160's inj's so I added a third 340 pump. The two pumps come on around 7psi along with the Meth.

Even tho the car is running E85 I was also spraying 100% meth. No other reason than when I put 91oct in it the meth needs to spray and right now I don't have a way to vary the flow of meth based on the flex sensor.

ks
Congrats man, that is some killer power for a 2v auto. Can't wait wait to see the graphs and see some videos of this monster
Congrats man, that is some killer power for a 2v auto. Can't wait wait to see the graphs and see some videos of this monster
Thank You! I wish I had a vid of it on the dyno. Even with the boost controller ramping in boost as slow as possible when the boost hit around 4K it's violent as hell trying to jump off the dyno and spinning the tires. The operator even gave a yeehaw! when he let out of gas...lol

ks
That's awesome Kevin! I want to see some video's of this thing too!!
That's awesome Kevin! I want to see some video's of this thing too!!
Thanks Bud.. Got no vids. With all the oil smoking it would be embarrassing to show it although I wish I could see it on the dyno.

Good New is that after spending time thinking about the turbo oiling issue I've concluded that it's not the turbos at all. I think it's these crappy valve covers that are currently on it that are leaking under high rpm/boost. So once we get the new ones finished up I'm almost certain that will take care of the oil drainage issues I thought I had.

ks
2
Here's the last two graphs. I do have the one with the 840 pull but I'm just going to post these last two.

ks



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I take it the flat spot at 4500 followed by the spike is where it spun the tires?

824ftlbs....giggity :cool:
I take it the flat spot at 4500 followed by the spike is where it spun the tires?

824ftlbs....giggity :cool:
Yea that's when the boosts hits. I wish the boost was shown on the graphs just to see the curve. The boost is ramping in as slow as we can possibly make it too. It will only ramp in faster..

GEEZ! I've never looked at the torque! HOLY COW!!! 800ftlbs at 5300rpm!!

ks
I'm still working with Karl on the above setup. I'm concerned that the Dyno Operator may accidentally hold the button down too long and initiate OD instead of the dyno tune. Naturally we can always eliminate the Street Tune completely until the dyno sessions are done and this may be the way I go so there is only the Race Tune and the Dyno Tune to switch between.

ks
Trans Tune Update 6/2/17:
I received the new trans tune but I haven't actually tested it yet since I'm concentrating on getting the car ready for another car show next month.

Karl did a custom tune for me that uses two tunes which are toggled via the OD button in the stock shifter. This setup will prevent the car from shifting into OD when under power thus causing the damage that happened before when the tires were spinning and the trans shifted into OD breaking everything. Here's what he wrote:

"If you put these into table 1 and table 2 (per their names), you will have no OD until you hold the O/D button for two or three seconds and release it. Then, it will only shift into O/D below about 40% throttle, and it will not shift into O/D or stay in O/D above 40%. Below 40% throttle, it will take 32 seconds for it to shift into O/D, so it will not shift into O/D during a brief lift or other maneuver. So, you will only have O/D when you really want it. To cancel O/D, you can press the O/D button for 2-3 seconds again, or turn the key off. If you just briefly press the O/D button, it will switch to manual mode, where the shifter will emulate a full manual valve body with a 3-2-1 pattern, and no O/D, as well.

Hopefully this will work well for you. Please let me know if you need anything else.

Take care.
Best Regards,
Karl Baumann
Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC"


I want to give a huge props to Dan (Silver Fox) and Karl (Baumann Electronic Controls -Quick4) for setting me up with this transmission system. They have gone above merely selling me parts instead they have been determined to produce something that fulfills my desired design specs that I have for my car and I think this will be a great transmission system that I will really enjoy.

ks
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Congrats on the numbers, I was having similar problems of car going into overdrive so I disabled it and it would only engage manually, but then I just pulled US shift controller and went with a manual V/B. like the idea of electrically locking in convertor and O/D but not real sure about constant pressure, on the T/B my convertor will flash to 12# at 5100 rpm and will definitely launch the car. I will be sending my convertor to Precision to have him do his magic and find a balance since I am still just a streetcar. thanks for the updates and cant wait to hear what it runs.
Thank you. Since mine's a street car I've built the entire car around the comforts, durability and ease of driving a stock type vehicle with the exception of having 900hp on tap. Having the Quick4 operate the trans is great b/c the different shift tunes (street or dyno or race) can be accessed electronically with the push of the OD button. Dan warned me that if OD broke the trans again he would only build me a MVB so I PRAY that won't ever happen again.

With the 2800 stall converter the locked line pressure can't be felt and in fact the most annoying aspect of this transmission is not the transmission at all it's the rear suspension. Currently the LCA's uses solid bushings and whenever the converter locks up the suspension makes a loud clank. After I get the new hood molded this summer I plan on installing LCA's with poly bushings.

ks
I got the new cam covers all powder coated. I can't wait to see pictures of everything put back together. It's going to look AWESOME!!:joy:

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The hood goes under the knife in a few weeks while I mold/make a new one from scratch so I did a photoshoot tonight in case the hood got ruined. I'm bit bummed b/c I missed the desired sunset lighting but ended up with some quickies before I lost all light. No time for much of a setup just park it and jump out and snap a few photos. Here's the best of 6 pics I had time to snap but still not what I wanted.

ks



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Man that is the definition of a sleeper. Would never expect that car to push out the power it does
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