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Discussion Starter #1
Here are my numbers at various mod points. [Note the gains from the Pro-M MAF and Pro-M Cold Air Kit alone! I never would have believed it if you told me ahead of time...]:

1) Original/Base w/ Steeda Pullies + Mac Cold Air (1/20/03):

272.1 HP 282.9 lb/ft. Torque

2) With Magnaflow X, Cat Back and Steeda TA +4* (2/28/03):

281.8 HP 288 TQ

3) With Pro-M Cold Air + Pro M 80mm MAF/Factory Program on chip and timing reset to factory 10* (7/11/03)):

296.9 HP 294.7 TQ

4) Add a custom burn from Paul's Automotive (Thanks Mike!!!) and a few more dyno runs:

309.3 HP 306.1 TQ

I'm happy and she's screamin'.
 

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Great numbers! Congrats!
 

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HOLY **** that is crazy. How much did that Pro M cold air and the meter cost you? Wow, I just might get one now. I have heard so many mixed stories about MAF on N/A cobras. Hmmmmm.......
 

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Those #'s are decent but could be better for a 01 Cobra Engine. My 99 Cobra was dynoed at 303rwhp and 308rwtq with just MAC Catback, MAC CAI and Magnaflow X Pipe W/Cats. They are good #'s but could be better. I just got a Autologic Chip custom dyno burnt and C & L Mass air meter and there CAI setup and have 32-325rwhp as of now. Remember 99 Cobras's dynoed at about 15hp or less hp to the rear wheels then what they should have.
 

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CumGetSum99 said:
Those #'s are decent but could be better for a 01 Cobra Engine. My 99 Cobra was dynoed at 303rwhp and 308rwtq with just MAC Catback, MAC CAI and Magnaflow X Pipe W/Cats. They are good #'s but could be better. I just got a Autologic Chip custom dyno burnt and C & L Mass air meter and there CAI setup and have 32-325rwhp as of now. Remember 99 Cobras's dynoed at about 15hp or less hp to the rear wheels then what they should have.
Those numbers are decent!!!?? :confused: What are you insane!!??? nearly 310rwhp with just bolt ons and no porting/polishing are outstanding numbers. There aren't many Cobras that are making that much power N/A without some porting work. Most guys just barely reach 300 with all the bolt ons. I'd like to see your dyno sheet if you pulled 303rwhp with just those mods. That doesn't seem to be right. I am not saying it didn't happen, just seems a little high
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
99dropT: I heard the same thing and really had no intention of swapping the cold air kit/maf set up I had. The only reason I ended up with it: I hadn't swapped out anything for a few months and knew it was an easy mod that wouldn't set me back too much money (i.e., $ + hole in pocket), and basically got sick of waiting around for WMS to get its act together on that 95mm system (which I thought would be overkill anyway). Obviously, I'm pleased I took a chance.

The Pro-M cold air kit is an end-to-end system that looks EXACTLY like the pictures of the Anderson Power Pipe you see in their MM&FF adds (4" mandrel bent ceramic coated tubing, Home-Depot-type TB connector, and MAF housed down in the fender well)- I wasn't aware of this before I bought the Pro-M and only mention it because Anderson told me theirs absolutely would not fit with a Max Motorsports STB. Well, Pro-M's fit, but it's a tight squeeze to say the least. Intake sounds much louder than with the Mac cold-air kit, which used the silenced factory TB connector, it now sounds similar to S/C'd -- so be sure to factor that in if you're concerned about bumping the noise factor. (I'm already used to it). Throttle response has improved dramatically and the numbers speak for themselves. The 80mm MAF (check Pro-M's page, it's the one they offer in a choice of colors) and filter are really something from a "bling" factor, so its a shame they are mounted in the well where no one will see them.
I bought the system from a Pro-M dealer who lives very close to my home, but specializes in the T-Bird Super Coupe (www.supercoupeperformance.com). I think the cold air kit was $200 and the MAF was $199.

[Install: I first had to take the STB off, trimed about 1/2" of the rubber TB connector elbow in order to scoot it to the right a few degrees so it would clear the left-side STB Cross-member. Once attached and tightend down, I put the STB back on (yes, that part sucked a$$). Re-Hooked the battery. Done].

Oh, and thanks to you (and everyone else) for the follow up support on the #s -- I thought they were pretty good too from what I've read about the N/As. They are accurate, corrected figures done at Paul's Automotive in Cincinnati. I'll be happy to post the sheets, but I'll probably need some site assistance and a day to reduce 'em to images... (Or, if you want to talk with the guy who did the Dyno tune, call Paul's Automotive and ask for Mike: (513) 791-1087)
BT
 

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Those are great numbers for those mods. Congrats!

CumGetSum, I would be curious to see your dynochart as well and see if you are touting SAE corrected numbers or not. If you are, you have a very strong car. If you have had the "fix" though, you should not have been down any power, or not 15 rwhp anyway. That would put your baseline pretty close to the 2001 Cobra's.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If anyone is willing to explain how to post a .jpg, I'll be happy to post the dyno sheets

(yes, they are SAE #s).
 

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awesome numbers

I took my 01 cobra to pauls. Put on a set of hooker longtubes and hooker x pipe. dyno tuned autologic chip. I pulled 300 hp 299 tq. I have a c&l mass air. You have me thinking i should try pro m. You should be very proud of your numbers. Believe me i know that its not easy to hit 300 rwhp. Congratulations you got me beat.
 

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Therunyan, were do you live in cincinnati? I usualy am around milford or mason. I too got dyno'd at pauls automotive. That is a great place with super nice people. I'm going to be going back soon after some more mods.

BTW, those are some nice numbers with just bolt ons. It IS normaly hard to hit or go over the 300/300 mark without the right combo of bolt ons, nice job:D
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
blown98 said:
Therunyan, were do you live in cincinnati? I usualy am around milford or mason. I too got dyno'd at pauls automotive. That is a great place with super nice people. I'm going to be going back soon after some more mods.

BTW, those are some nice numbers with just bolt ons. It IS normaly hard to hit or go over the 300/300 mark without the right combo of bolt ons, nice job:D
blown98: Loveland -- I'm sure I've seen you around (via Stangbangerz.com perhaps??). Paul's does a hell of a good job indeed. If you get a custom chip, make sure you ask for Mike, he's a real pro.

Badsnke -- I'd never believed it in a million years. My first dyno was such a disappointment that I thought I had a dud. I'm handing it all to that Pro-M kit and Mike.
 

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do these cars not react to bolt ons? I had an issue about a year ago when a friend of mine bought a bone stock 99.... the dealership told them the fix was done, but the car ran SLOW as hell, so we took it to dyno. evidently the fix had been done, but other that that it was 100% bone stock and pulled 289 rwhp. you would think longtubes, and aftermarket wufflers alone would poush it over the 300hp range???
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, my car reacted to the bolt ons, and judging from other posts I'd say the bolt ons are good for at least 20 or 30 hp, depending upon what you are bolting on. I would think Long Tubes would go a long way to bumping up the HP -- I'm considering them myself -- even more so with an aftermarket MAF/Cold air kit (obviosly, I'm a believer after my success). I was disappointed in the results from the cat-back and TA, which netted me only about 10 HP or so together, but I know others on the boards have had much greater success with those bolt ons. I obviously needed to open up the top end...
 

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gain with longtubes

I gained 11 hp with the hookers. After seeing the stock manifolds i thought for sure that i would get 20 or more.I think it is time to ditch the c&l and go with pro m or wms. I would love to hit 320. But i do not think it is possible n/a.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
SSHEL-B said:
Any pics of this system?
I'll be happy to post a pic of that too if anyone can give me a clue as to how...
 

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You have to have the .jpg hosted on a web site and then link it with the img tags.

[*img]www.yourpic.com/yourpicture.jpg[*/img]

Like so but take away the *s
 
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