[Dwain]

Youre getting good advice in here regarding which balancer to buy. Plenty of people run blowers on stock cranks and have no issues but some people rip the snout off of them. Any time you add more power, its a gamble. I did it for years on a stock bottom end 302 that went from my fox to my sn95 before I dropped a valve and then switched to turbo but I also was only making like 8psi (375whp) and didnt have the belt cranked super tight. The more boost the more load placed on the crank and the more chance of the key shearing, or the balancer cracking at the keyway or breaking the crank. The better the balancer, the less chance you have of the cracking happening but even if you use a special blower specific balancer, breaking the snout is always a possibility. I can tell you from experience, breaking a crank is no fun. My turbo 306 broke on the inside edge of the #1 journal and took out the whole front of the motor... Timing cover, block, oilpan, waterpump all destroyed in a matter of seconds. Mark and Strokeme have experience with probably thousands of builds. Their advice shouldnt be taken lightly.

 

[Fast4Eye]

I know, that's why when StrokeMe said to buy the PowerBond, I did. I'm running a bone stock engine with MAYBE 8psi. I understand that there is a chance that the snout could break off but there are probably other things that will break before then. I'm guessing I'll be learning how to do head gaskets and some ARP studs in the coming months lol

I try to word my posts to avoid coming across as dismissive as I understand it's difficult to read from the other person's perspective. I simply don't have $600 to spend on an IW balancer, unless I wait another month but I also need to get this car together so I'd rather buy a balancer of equal performance for my power level than spend unnecessary money and I'll never see the performance.

But who knows I may look back at this post in 6 months with my front end torn apart seeing I was a stupid teenager, I guess we'll have to wait and see.

 

[aurdraco]

I can tell you from experience, breaking a crank is no fun. My turbo 306 broke on the inside edge of the #1 journal and took out the whole front of the motor... Timing cover, block, oilpan, waterpump all destroyed in a matter of seconds.

23 years ago, my 302 did the same (without a turbo) in the middle of an auto-x run. Luckily it was just a practice event so we could move some cones around and keep going after a quick mop up. That was an expensive auto-x run. Loud noise, lots of smoke, metal scattered everywhere. 0/5 stars, do not recommend.

 

[Dwain]

I know, that's why when StrokeMe said to buy the PowerBond, I did. I'm running a bone stock engine with MAYBE 8psi. I understand that there is a chance that the snout could break off but there are probably other things that will break before then. I'm guessing I'll be learning how to do head gaskets and some ARP studs in the coming months lol

I try to word my posts to avoid coming across as dismissive as I understand it's difficult to read from the other person's perspective. I simply don't have $600 to spend on an IW balancer, unless I wait another month but I also need to get this car together so I'd rather buy a balancer of equal performance for my power level than spend unnecessary money and I'll never see the performance.

But who knows I may look back at this post in 6 months with my front end torn apart seeing I was a stupid teenager, I guess we'll have to wait and see.

IF your tune is safe your headgaskets should be just fine unless they are on their way out due to corrosion or just being super old and never been replaced. The felpro 9333 pt1 are excellent gaskets for boost and super cheap. If you blow the gaskets that are in it or just want to replace them before adding boost, those are what many of us running mild to medium power builds use. I run them in my car and im making way too much power for a stock block. I always use copper gasket spray on them before installing. Ive never blown one in all the boosted applications I have built but the tunes are always safe. ARP bolts or studs are a good idea. I personally like bolts more than studs since its easier to remove heads in the car with bolts and i have had better luck with bolts not wheeping coolant but thats just my personal preference.

 

[Dwain]

23 years ago, my 302 did the same (without a turbo) in the middle of an auto-x run. Luckily it was just a practice event so we could move some cones around and keep going after a quick mop up. That was an expensive auto-x run. Loud noise, lots of smoke, metal scattered everywhere. 0/5 stars, do not recommend.

I still have nightmares of the noise of all that metal bouncing off the road and my undercarriage. I agree, 0/5 starts LOL. Ive had some pretty spectacular failures since ive been building these cars.

 

[Fast4Eye]

IF your tune is safe your headgaskets should be just fine unless they are on their way out due to corrosion or just being super old and never been replaced. The felpro 9333 pt1 are excellent gaskets for boost and super cheap. If you blow the gaskets that are in it or just want to replace them before adding boost, those are what many of us running mild to medium power builds use. I run them in my car and im making way too much power for a stock block. I always use copper gasket spray on them before installing. Ive never blown one in all the boosted applications I have built but the tunes are always safe. ARP bolts or studs are a good idea. I personally like bolts more than studs since its easier to remove heads in the car with bolts and i have had better luck with bolts not wheeping coolant but thats just my personal preference.

To be completely honest, the engine is like 40,000kms and uncracked only really had the water pump off of it since it managed to start leaking. The gaskets are probably done already so the boost will just push it over the edge.

I feel like throwing boost at this engine will probably leave me stranded at some point whether it's an engine or transmission issue, but I guess that's a gamble I take daily driving a blown car with a glass transmission.

 

[Dwain]

To be completely honest, the engine is like 40,000kms and uncracked only really had the water pump off of it since it managed to start leaking. The gaskets are probably done already so the boost will just push it over the edge.

I feel like throwing boost at this engine will probably leave me stranded at some point whether it's an engine or transmission issue, but I guess that's a gamble I take daily driving a blown car with a glass transmission.

If youre talking about a T5, im still running one and my car is heavier than yours. Granted I rebuilt mine and I installed a billet countershaft bearing retainer but if you dont power shift, the T5 can last a long time. You can easily disassemble your own t5 and upgrade the bearing retainer. Its like 40$ for the part. When the stock stamped retainer stretches the countershaft rocks back and forth causing inconsistent gear meshing issues which leads to breaking. If youre interested in the info, PM me and I can send you some videos that will walk you through a complete rebuild and the bearing retainer install. The bearing retainer install is really easy to do. You dont need any special tools to do it either, If you want to do a full rebuild you need access to a press, good snap ring pliers and a bearing/gear separator. The t5 is so easy to rebuild. I think the 86 was the first year for the WCT5.

 

[Fast4Eye]

Hopefully I can avoid rebuilding, but it's reassuring knowing its somewhat easy to reassemble if the time comes. I can honestly say that pulling a transmission seems very daunting and to do that at home seems like a lot, but if its a somewhat easy home job, I don't see the issue. I hate taking my car to shops.

And I may be wrong but I thought the 1985+ V8s got world class but then everything else like the 4 bangers and v6s got the regular t5.

 

[Dwain]

bro... the trans is super easy to pull, remove the shifter handle (2 or 4 bolts depending how you do it) drop the h-pipe (8 bolts), drop the drive shaft (4 bolts), unbolt the trans from the bell housing (4 bolts) remove the crossmember bolts (2 bolts thru the chassis, 2 to the trans) disconnect the speedo cable, its out. I can pull a trans with hand tools in less than an hour laying on the floor. its like 75lbs so its not even heavy The fox chassis is extremely easy to work on. I can do my car in about 30 minutes since I dont have to pull the exhaust.

 

[Fast4Eye]

Jeez, well if thats the case I may be compelled to just pull it while its in storage lol.

But one thing at a time, I need to get the engine buttoned up so its running for spring, then plenty of time to rebuild my tranny or find a donor to build.

 

[Mark O'Neal]

My demeanor is naturally sarcastic. Your definition is essentially correct, and the Powerbond is more than fine for this application.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

I still have nightmares of the noise of all that metal bouncing off the road and my undercarriage. I agree, 0/5 starts LOL. Ive had some pretty spectacular failures since ive been building these cars.

Same. Was cruising at 40mph in the city and the serp/blower pulley from ASP sheered/cracked and fell off. I was even more stupid waiting for traffic to clear so I could retrieve the gigantic hunk of metal before someone hit it. Now I torque my tensioner to as light as I can without any slip. Around 65ft-lbs.

I’m in the process working with a machine shop to save cobra lower pulley cages without going Metco when bushings fail in them. Hopefully it’s a hit and I can market what we’ve made.

 

[b--rad]

here is what i would do... use a cheap pioneer or powerbond and use alkydigger kit to add a pin for extra assurance that the keyway wont rip out..

now for experience here.... i've broke the snout off of 2 cranks.. stock and sbc 4340...
both times it was 100% my fault for going above and beyond in the search for horsepower...

now if i was gonna get a balancer for this application and keep it blown.... CRANK HUB... seen them available for almost anything and in internal or external balance... even seen one made quite easily.. if your external... then you will have to make one with the weight and have your crank and it balanced... but that's the kats meow.. probably too much sugar for a dime tho.. just go with one of the suggestions by the other members here that are not as crazy as me.

 

[Dwain]

Same. Was cruising at 40mph in the city and the serp/blower pulley from ASP sheered/cracked and fell off. I was even more stupid waiting for traffic to clear so I could retrieve the gigantic hunk of metal before someone hit it. Now I torque my tensioner to as light as I can without any slip. Around 65ft-lbs.

I’m in the process working with a machine shop to save cobra lower pulley cages without going Metco when bushings fail in them. Hopefully it’s a hit and I can market what we’ve made.

Im going to do a vortech on my 57 f100 since I already have the blower kit that has been just laying around after switching my sn to turbo and now i have all the brackets and pulleys from a 95 mustang. I have an 8 rib pulley for the crank so I am going to use an 8 rib on the blower and see if I can get away with very little tension and get no slippage. Im not trying to make a ton of power with it. Ill be happy with it in the 375 whp range again somewhere in the 8 to 10 lb range. This truck is a bagged cruiser that will lay the pinch weld when aired out. No need for crazy hp.

 

[Fast4Eye]

On the topic of pullies, and maybe taking this thread for a turn. I can't use the 6-rib crank that came with my Sci kit since I have a 93 cobra crank, so I need to get one of those all-in-one pullies for the serp and blower. What pulley do you guys recommend? I was going to buy the 8 rib package for my car from Vortech and have read that the 8" version makes the blower very responsive and honestly, I'm intrigued.

Open to all suggestions within reason of course. Not looking to push 18#s of boost as it is completely stock and the heads are obviously a massive restriction. Would the 8" crank put too much stress? Should I stick with the 6.87" crank from Vortech?

 

[strokeme]

On the topic of pullies, and maybe taking this thread for a turn. I can't use the 6-rib crank that came with my Sci kit since I have a 93 cobra crank, so I need to get one of those all-in-one pullies for the serp and blower. What pulley do you guys recommend? I was going to buy the 8 rib package for my car from Vortech and have read that the 8" version makes the blower very responsive and honestly, I'm intrigued.

Open to all suggestions within reason of course. Not looking to push 18#s of boost as it is completely stock and the heads are obviously a massive restriction. Would the 8" crank put too much stress? Should I stick with the 6.87" crank from Vortech?

What is a 93 cobra crank?

 

[Fast4Eye]

What is a 93 cobra crank?

🤷‍♂️ ask LMR, it was in their pulley kit when I got rid of the previously installed underdrives.

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8221D/mustang-50-resto-93-cobra-underdrive-crankshaft-pulley-79-93

The inside of the pulley is too small and won't let my six rib pulley sit inside of it, so I either get a normal crank pulley or just get an 8 rib kit like I was going to by in the future anyways.

 

[96pushrod]

On the topic of pullies, and maybe taking this thread for a turn. I can't use the 6-rib crank that came with my Sci kit since I have a 93 cobra crank, so I need to get one of those all-in-one pullies for the serp and blower. What pulley do you guys recommend? I was going to buy the 8 rib package for my car from Vortech and have read that the 8" version makes the blower very responsive and honestly, I'm intrigued.

Open to all suggestions within reason of course. Not looking to push 18#s of boost as it is completely stock and the heads are obviously a massive restriction. Would the 8" crank put too much stress? Should I stick with the 6.87" crank from Vortech?

The 93 cobra crank is just a regular 5.0 crankshaft.

 

[Fast4Eye]

The 93 cobra crank is just a regular 5.0 crankshaft.

Again, I don't know the specifics but LMR has their 93 pulley kit and it says that the crank pulley iss underdriven like 10% so the inside is too small for my vortech 6 rib pulley

 

[SNK VNM]

They're confusing crank for crank pulley. Buy the balancer you can afford, powerbond, romac whatever, upgrade to the to the 1 piece vortech pulley, 8 rib set up. 6.87 should do fine for what you're after.

FWIW I used my stock balancer for years with a 8 rib Si with no problems.