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Need new harmonic balancer for supercharged 302

2344 Views 62 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Fast4Eye
I took a look at my current harmonic balancer and its looking pretty rough, definitley think it would be a safe idea to get a new one since I don't want to grenade my engine the first time I take it out.

What are everyone's suggestions for a good VALUE balancer. I don't want the cheapest or most expensive. Say under $300 what is the best value balancer I can get without risking my engine or bank account lol

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I'm sorry if there was anything wrong with my post, should have clarified its a completely stock 86 so 50oz and 4 bolt. That's as much as I know.

I have no idea what size balancer to get, brand, bolts. Nothing. I don't even know what a blower hub is after numerous searches so if you guys could enlighten me that would be much appreciated.

I just want the most cost effective and best performing, whatever you guys suggest.

Thank you, I'm intrigued by this innovators west. Are they really that good?

Also what is the significance behind the different crank keyways and like bolt patterns? What's a blow hub for, different offset?
So if I'm reading this correctly, for a ~350hp vortech 5.0 I can run a powerbond and have increase over stock without sacrificing performance or my engine. All for a lower price?
You are reading WAY TOO DEEP into this, but that is 99% of people in this hobby.
lol, I'm only reading deep in fear of buying something mediocre and costing myself more in the long run.

I feel that the performance will increase from stock since it's obviously not in its best condition. But I understand it's not going to be a night and day difference and extremely noticeable.

And yes I agree that things snowball very quickly talking to some people, somehow I'll go from wanting heads and a cam to some dude telling me that I need like 52 other things first, which makes forums challenging to sift through.
I think for my power level right now, I don't need a fancy double key way balancer with all the extra holes.

I'm not discrediting what you guys are saying, but financially it doesn't make sense to spend that much on a balancer that I won't see a noticeable increase in.

Just ordered that power bond linked above with a new arp bolt. Thanks everyone for the info.
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Adding a bunch of side load to a cast crank snout is not on my list of acceptable gambles. If I had a customer insist on it, he'd be someone else's customer.

So you don't want to put a mediocre balancer on a mediocre bottom end. I believe that all parts in combination should match. So ... if you're running a stock bottom end with a blower, mediocre balance is a perfect fit. ... (y)(y)
I'm sorry, it's really difficult to read people's demeanour over a forum post, I know that the stock bottom ends are mediocre. Also what is side load, would that be the supercharger pulley in front of the serpentine drive?

All I meant was that I didn't want to put a $40 aliexpress balancer on and then the whole engine blows up, I should have worded my initial statement properly. I think the powerband looks like the perfect match for my setup and is maybe half or a third the price of a IW. Yes they look great and probably perform better but I'm also not retired with a pension of sorts or have 10k+ to spend on this "build" I've got going on, so I'll have to make it work. I have maybe 20 hours a week after school I have to make funds stretch lol
I know, that's why when StrokeMe said to buy the PowerBond, I did. I'm running a bone stock engine with MAYBE 8psi. I understand that there is a chance that the snout could break off but there are probably other things that will break before then. I'm guessing I'll be learning how to do head gaskets and some ARP studs in the coming months lol

I try to word my posts to avoid coming across as dismissive as I understand it's difficult to read from the other person's perspective. I simply don't have $600 to spend on an IW balancer, unless I wait another month but I also need to get this car together so I'd rather buy a balancer of equal performance for my power level than spend unnecessary money and I'll never see the performance.

But who knows I may look back at this post in 6 months with my front end torn apart seeing I was a stupid teenager, I guess we'll have to wait and see.
IF your tune is safe your headgaskets should be just fine unless they are on their way out due to corrosion or just being super old and never been replaced. The felpro 9333 pt1 are excellent gaskets for boost and super cheap. If you blow the gaskets that are in it or just want to replace them before adding boost, those are what many of us running mild to medium power builds use. I run them in my car and im making way too much power for a stock block. I always use copper gasket spray on them before installing. Ive never blown one in all the boosted applications I have built but the tunes are always safe. ARP bolts or studs are a good idea. I personally like bolts more than studs since its easier to remove heads in the car with bolts and i have had better luck with bolts not wheeping coolant but thats just my personal preference.
To be completely honest, the engine is like 40,000kms and uncracked only really had the water pump off of it since it managed to start leaking. The gaskets are probably done already so the boost will just push it over the edge.

I feel like throwing boost at this engine will probably leave me stranded at some point whether it's an engine or transmission issue, but I guess that's a gamble I take daily driving a blown car with a glass transmission.
Hopefully I can avoid rebuilding, but it's reassuring knowing its somewhat easy to reassemble if the time comes. I can honestly say that pulling a transmission seems very daunting and to do that at home seems like a lot, but if its a somewhat easy home job, I don't see the issue. I hate taking my car to shops.

And I may be wrong but I thought the 1985+ V8s got world class but then everything else like the 4 bangers and v6s got the regular t5.
Jeez, well if thats the case I may be compelled to just pull it while its in storage lol.

But one thing at a time, I need to get the engine buttoned up so its running for spring, then plenty of time to rebuild my tranny or find a donor to build.
On the topic of pullies, and maybe taking this thread for a turn. I can't use the 6-rib crank that came with my Sci kit since I have a 93 cobra crank, so I need to get one of those all-in-one pullies for the serp and blower. What pulley do you guys recommend? I was going to buy the 8 rib package for my car from Vortech and have read that the 8" version makes the blower very responsive and honestly, I'm intrigued.

Open to all suggestions within reason of course. Not looking to push 18#s of boost as it is completely stock and the heads are obviously a massive restriction. Would the 8" crank put too much stress? Should I stick with the 6.87" crank from Vortech?
What is a 93 cobra crank?
🤷‍♂️ ask LMR, it was in their pulley kit when I got rid of the previously installed underdrives.

The inside of the pulley is too small and won't let my six rib pulley sit inside of it, so I either get a normal crank pulley or just get an 8 rib kit like I was going to by in the future anyways.
The 93 cobra crank is just a regular 5.0 crankshaft.
Again, I don't know the specifics but LMR has their 93 pulley kit and it says that the crank pulley iss underdriven like 10% so the inside is too small for my vortech 6 rib pulley
They're confusing crank for crank pulley. Buy the balancer you can afford, powerbond, romac whatever, upgrade to the to the 1 piece vortech pulley, 8 rib set up. 6.87 should do fine for what you're after.

FWIW I used my stock balancer for years with a 8 rib Si with no problems.
(y) ok bought the power bond and definitely going to the one piece pulley. I just wanted to know if it was worth going to the 8" renegade pulley or whatever its called because I've seen guys on forums say that it reduces the lag for boost to build, so of I'm already spending the money, may as well buy the best pulley I can get for said money.
Reduces the lag for boost? If you want more psi sooner, pulley down or switch to something other than a centrifugal aka turbo or tvs style blower.
I wasn't planning on completely switching the kit lmao

I've simply read that the 8" crank somehow reduced lag so I figured if I was spending the money on a pulley kit, I'd go that route.

Would it be a good idea to use the 8" crank and a 3.33" blower pulley? Probably less likely to slip and lots of head room in the future for more boost I'd think.
How much boost are you wanting? 3.33 and 6.87 won't have any slip. Search here and you'll likely find different pulley configurations and the psi they made.

Keep in mind boost is simply a measurement of resistance.
I understand that everyone's setups are different so 7 pounds can make like 400 on one car and 280 on another. I don't have a baseline so I don't really know how much boost I'd want, but I guess I'd want as much boost without blowing my head gaskets or headers off. Would 12#s be safe or is that over the top?
Side note, if I have to buy a new pulley pack anyways, should I just go 10 rib? What problems could that possibly bring about, do I need an E-fan if I go that route?
Alright so sounds like you basically have the same setup. I have a Sci it with heritage gears also, anderson power bypass and yes a tubular GT40 which is basically a cobra. If I'm going to see 13#s or close to it, then that's enough for me.

Not looking to break more parts than I really need to. So I think I'll stick to the 6.87with a 3.33. Is it worth using the overdriven crank 6.87?
One warning on the Powerbond.
I usually use Romac, but on a mild build I am doing now, I put a Powerbond on it. Well guess what I found today when dressing the engine- the pulley mounting holes are not all drilled to the same depth, and the thread tapping they did was not at the same depth and not all the way to the bottom. This means the bolts I was using bottomed out on three of the four holes, just enough to touch the pulley on two, but the threads didnt go deep enough on one so the bolt hit bottom before it reached the pulley.

I could easily see someone thinking their bolts were tight but what is happening is the bolt is bottoming. This is bad in any situation, but imagine this on a blower motor.

No more Powerbonds for me.....
I'll make sure to give mine a once over before installing, but I already bought it and it seems to get good reviews, but thank you!
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