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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my NEW fluidyne radiator installed and fill it up with coolant.

I now have a small pin hole leak where the automatic transmission plug is (Driver side, the top plug). It is not leaking through the set screw plug but between the big hex nut and the aluminum case. :mad: :( .

I will call Fluidyne but quite honestly I do not contempt the idea of sending it back. I am about to put the car back on the street and if I can fix that locally, I will.

Question is:

Does anyone know if that big hex nut is welded or if I can remove it and apply more of that sealant thing.

By the way, the car has manual transmission and I don't need the automatic built-in radiator in it.

Thanks guys/gals
 

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I put a small whole in one of the cooling fins on my fluidyne ( I wanted to cry - that thing is beautiful!). I called them up and they said sure I could send it back and they would fix it. He then described how they would fix it, and that I might find a local guy who would fix it the same way. So I found a local guy who repairs aluminum radiators and he fixed it no problem.

Not the same problem as yours I know, but you should be able to find a local guy who can do it.
 

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I had the same problem with my Fluidyne a couple years ago on my 94 GT with AODE. They used an o-ring that was too small / wrong size. The whole fitting should screw/bolt in/out but call or email Fluidyne to check on your particular model.

They will be more than willing to send new o-rings, but it is much easier to take the fitting to your local parts store and buy an O-ring. Be sure you get one that can handle tranny fluid. When you put the thing together you can use the red RTV silicone for high temp usage to be extra sure it seals. Don't put it on the o-ring as they perform best with nothing or a light coating of vasoline. Use the RTV on the threads of the fitting. You can also use teflon tape on the treads if you prefer.

Also double-check and make sure the leak isn't from your tranny lines after all of this playing around. It is easy to wear them out while you are fixing the radiator.

Fluidyne was very nice to me and volunteered to exchange the radiator completely if I wanted to. I did not want to wait, etc. and simply took it apart and did as outlined above. Good luck.
 

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the guy at the factory messed up the o-ring when he tightened down the nut the o ring was not seated properly. You can buy the perfect o ring at home depot. Don't put sealant in there. It will mess up the seat for the o ring. Take out the large hex nuts, the top and the bottom off the cooler. remove the o rings. It is easier with the radiator out if you can because laying flat you can't mess it up. Take a tape measure and measure the width of the circle that the ring goes around. I think it is 1 /8 inch. Buy the next sizes up and down at home depot. When you tighten down the nuts don't man-tighten them just real snug. Works perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did call Fluidyne yesterday and they told me I can put RTV high temp stuff around.

They told me not to remove both nuts as the tranny cooler with fall inside.

When I removed the nuts, there was nothing from the outside (nut on aluminum) but a rubber type ring (taper shape) was inside. I have no idea how you can take this out of the welded radiator. Nothing that big will comeout the filling hole????

When I took the nut out, I noticed the top outlet was not properly centered which I corrected. However I also noticed how big are the openings in the aluminum base for the oulets. The flat side of the nuts barely covers the hole.

Anyway I did put a lot of RTV and torque the hell of the nuts. I let it cure overnight and will fill it up tonight to see if it leaks.

I do not have a good feeling about the longevity of this setup and am afraid that the inside rubber ring (if that is the O-ring you guys talk about) has some scare from the first installation.

****, there must be a better way to do this. The whole radiator is first class but that outlet setup is not.

Thanks, I will let you know if that worked out OK when I fire up the engine this weekend (hopefully).
 

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nonstock said:
Also double-check and make sure the leak isn't from your tranny lines after all of this playing around. It is easy to wear them out while you are fixing the radiator.

Fluidyne was very nice to me and volunteered to exchange the radiator completely if I wanted to. I did not want to wait, etc. and simply took it apart and did as outlined above. Good luck.
The leak came from between the aluminum side mount/base and the large hex nut. Nothing leaks from the tranny lines but of course I did not start the motor and therefore did not presssurize the radiator yet.

I do not need that auto tranny cooler anyway. I had ordered the manual tranny version but got the auto.

If it was not for shipping it back across the border and all the time lost, I would return it.

What pisses me off is I did spent more than 10 hours to get that radiator in. There was an interference with the harness that runs on top across the top front structure and on the battery side. One of the Radiator support bracket was cutting through the harness protective surface. Had to use the die grinder and the file to remove some material there.

THanks again for the support guys.
 
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