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My 1995 GT project

17404 Views 116 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  somanycorners
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What started out as my first Mustang [2006] has turned into one hell of a learning experience. I have made mistakes with my engine combo, double [hell, triple] spent on certain items, and even re-purposed the entire project three times. When the original 5.0 developed a rod knock [2008], we replaced it with a simple 306 [2009] in with ported heads and an explorer intake that made 243/298. It served me well for about six months when it lost oil pressure and I parked it. After some decision making, I had a 410w built and thats when things got frusterating. The project sat idle for a few years [2009-2012] and work was only sporadic at best. The paint fell off, parts were stolen, finally got it running [2013] but discovered the valve springs were too soft. That led to the already junk heads being CNC ported, correct valve springs installed, a new intake, and long tube headers being installed. [2014] Along the way, I had even started collecting parts for an IRS swap but then sold the IRS swap for a watts link [2015] and now I'm going with a PHB/HD torque arm combo from Maximum Motorsports. [2016] Wrecked my daily driver '98 GT, sold the 410w and bought a rebuilt 4.6 4V from a wrecked 98 Cobra. The original intent was to make three cars into one. Then I discovered the 4v had a couple of burnt valves and a blown head gasket. Crap. So, I just bought a 2015 F150 for a daily driver. [2017] Collected parts, stripped the '95 to the shell and completely rewired it to '98 specs. [2018] Built the engine with a metric #### ton of help from @lwarrior1016 and have spent the rest of the year "finishing it" but have yet to fire it up.[2019] Finally found the time to get the car squared away. Got it running and finished most every subsystem. [2020] Sold the 4V :ROFLMAO: Swapped in a Coyote and I’m working towards getting it running. [2021] Had it on the dyno and it made 419/393 with the timing flat lining at 22°. Also turned out we had missed a step during the timing process and the RH bank was way off. Also, in the cam controller, i had dip switches in the wrong position and she was running on Gen 1 cam tables. About a month later the block cracked in a hard freeze (16° F) which was not expected in south Louisiana. Spent a few months collecting parts and built a new, 12.5:1 engine with L&M intake cams. She’s rowdy now and has antifreeze flowing through her veins.

Direction? None... Well, I had initially wanted it to stay my daily driver with some 1320 duty. That mindset then started to sway more towards show/street/strip but now I've decided to just keep spinning wrenches and forget titles.


List of installed and pending mods:

2017 F150 5.0 (Gen 2)

  • JE pistons (12.5:1 compression)
  • 2018 Mustang GT intake (ported)
  • FAST 87MM throttle body
  • Lokar throttle cable
  • L&M intake camshafts
  • Gen 2 Mustang exhaust camshafts
  • ARP cam tower bolts
  • ARP cam phaser bolts
  • ARP harmonic balancer bolt
  • MMR tensioner chain flip bracket
  • Mustang timing cover
  • PBH AC compressor bracket
  • IW harmonic balancer
  • S550 200A alternator
  • S550 oil filter adaptor
  • MMR rear coolant crossover
  • Boundary Billet oil pump gears
  • Boundary Billet crank gear
  • MMR piston cooling jet delete
  • Holley HP EFI standalone
  • Holley TiVCT controller

Flex Fuel system

  • Aeromotive AFPR
  • QFS 340 pump in Pro-M hanger
  • 6AN feed/return PTFE stainless braided fuel lines
  • 10 micron filter
  • 47# injectors
  • Continental Flex fuel sensor
  • Powerhouse Racing billet flow through adapter

Exhaust

  • BBK 1 3/4" long tube headers
  • BBK X-pipe 3”
  • Dynomax UltraFlo mufflers 2.5”
  • Flowmaster Foxbody LX tail pipes

Drivetrain:

T56 Magnum
  • QuickTime bellhousing
  • Exedy Twin Disc clutch
  • Stiffler's T56 crossmember
  • Driveshaft Shop aluminum shaft

8.8 rear

  • Eaton Truetrac
  • Yukon 31 spline axles
  • Strange C-Clip eliminators
  • 4.10 gears
  • LPW Ultimate differential cover

Suspension:

  • Maximum Motorsports K member
  • 94/95 Cobra front sway bar
  • MM sway bar relocation
  • MM sway bar bushings
  • MM lowered end links
  • MM forward offset control arms
  • MM caster/camber plates
  • MM MM3 struts (race)
  • MM RA2 shocks (sport)
  • MM coil overs (425/325)
  • MM subframe connectors
  • MM road race control arms
  • MM rear adjustable sway bar
  • MM panhard bar
  • MM heavy duty torque arm
  • MM Race shock mounts

Brakes, wheels and tires:

  • 18x9/18x10 Forgestar F14
  • 275/35/18 Federal 595 RS-Pro
  • Brembo 44/40 calipers (Gen 2 Viper) with Autology brackets
  • 14” GT500 rotors
  • Powerstop red powder coated rear calipers
  • 13” Baer Eradispeed +1 rear rotor kit
  • Powerstop Trackday pads
  • Stiffler’s stainless brake hoses
  • Fine Lines stainless brake lines
  • ABS delete block

Interior:

  • 1998 GT interior (RIP Space Ghost)
  • Mach 1 door panels
  • 99-04 Console
  • dual USB charging port
  • 2000 Cobra R style shift knob
  • leather wrapped Momo Corse steering wheel
  • NRG short hub
  • NRG gen 2 quick release
  • Corbeau Forza Sport drivers seat for autocross days
  • Black 2005 GT seats for street use
  • billet Unicorn head light knob
  • rear seat delete
  • Holley 7" digital dash
  • Holley LED shift light
  • Holley GPS
  • Steinmann Performance cluster
  • dual gauge panel with dual USB connections for Holley ECU/Dash
  • Autometer Cobalt programmable fuel gauge
  • Innovate DLG-1 wideband gauge
  • Alpine CD player
  • Boston Acoustic 6x9’s (doors)
  • Rockford Fosgate 6x8’s (deck)

Exterior:

  • 1997 Cobra hood
  • Aerocatch hood latches
  • vertical, export tail lights
  • Madd Retros projector headlights
  • 4300k HIDs (meh)
  • Cobra front bumper or Saleen front bumper
  • Carbon Fiber T1 wing
  • _slib's flared Carbon fiber fenders

Misc

  • Volvo electric power steering pump
  • Converted to hydroboost brakes
  • Converted power steering hoses to AN hoses
  • 2000 Cobra R steering rack
  • C6 fan controller
  • Champion 3 core radiator

Parts pending installation:

  • Cortex Watts link
  • MM roll bar
  • SLP exhaust tips


Thanks for reading, there is much more to come - Josef



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Did the studs come with the heads or the rockers?
The studs came wth the heads.
Parts pending installation:

- Maximum Motorsport RA3 struts and RA2 shocks
- Maximum Motorsports coil overs (front and rear)
- FTR Watts link
- Maximum Motorsport HD Torque Arm
- Innovate Wideband O2 with DB gauge
- Fox valve covers
- black scuff plates
- Canton 351w road race oil pan
- Agent 47 naca duct quarter window panels
- race car stuff lol
- Corbeau Forza Sport seats
- Holley HP EFI
- AFR 205 heads with Lunati LSx valve springs
- Edelbrock Super Victor EFI intake/3848 elbow
- Siemens 60# injectors (just in case)
- Accufab 90mm throttle body
- custom Lunati cam from Ed Curtis at FTI
- Aeromotive 340 lph pump
- mint FR500 steering wheel
- Maximum Motorsports braided brake hoses
- FTR S550 14" brakes
- 13" Baer Eradispeed +1 rear rotor kit
- manual window doors
- Aerocatch latches
- FTR bash bar
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Parts pending installation:

- Maximum Motorsport RA3 struts and RA2 shocks
- Maximum Motorsports coil overs (front and rear)
- FTR Watts link
- Maximum Motorsport HD Torque Arm
- Innovate Wideband O2 with DB gauge
- Fox valve covers
- black scuff plates
- Canton 351w road race oil pan
- Agent 47 naca duct quarter window panels
- race car stuff lol
- Corbeau Forza Sport seats
- Holley HP EFI
- AFR 205 heads with Lunati LSx valve springs
- Edelbrock Super Victor EFI intake/3848 elbow
- Siemens 60# injectors (just in case)
- Accufab 90mm throttle body
- custom Lunati cam from Ed Curtis at FTI
- Aeromotive 340 lph pump
- mint FR500 steering wheel
- Maximum Motorsports braided brake hoses
- FTR S550 14" brakes
- 13" Baer Eradispeed +1 rear rotor kit
- manual window doors
- Aerocatch latches
- FTR bash bar
Oh my. Haha that's going to be one hell of a car
Oh my. Haha that's going to be one hell of a car
Even more to come >:) She's still pretty fugly and will need paint too



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sand down the rough spots and plastidip. very easy and cheap. PM if you more info, i've been playing with the stuff sor a while now with good results.
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sand down the rough spots and plastidip. very easy and cheap. PM if you more info, i've been playing with the stuff sor a while now with good results.
I'm on the fence with plastidip TBH.. My front bumper is dipped and they put it on too thin. Therefore it's CRAP and won't simply peel off. :eeek:
if you do it right it will last a long time, be plenty durable, and even allow you to repair it as needed. for $350 you could buy the spray system and the paint. thats what i did, and i love it. it's been about a year, and it is still in excellent shape.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMobRfrpZpg

doing it with the gallons is so much better then the rattle cans. too many (teenagers) do a half er...hearted job, and it shows. done right it will last and be easy to peel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9ij8--Wge0
I like dip, and I could fathom dipping my other sn95 but not this one..

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Well...####...

What started as a "simple" HCI swap developed into a Holley HP EFI install that quickly escalated into gathering parts for a coil near plug setup so I can run a forward facing throttle body... Going to be sweet but not quite as sweet as @kbscobravert

Cast of characters:

Holley HP EFI
Holley 7" LCD display
Steinman Performance cluster for LCD
Leash Electronics relay box
D585 coil packs
64bit Tuning cam sensor
Innovators West flying magnet balancer

Big thank you to @irwinner for helping me sort the parts list out and answering my relentless questions!

Did I mention I have meaningfully started the HCI swap yet? About that, I did order a set of adjustable pushrods and checking springs to sort the pushrods for the new cam. Don't want to get it wrong!

Also, I installed some new brakes but don't have pads yet. Installed a "bash bar" to make room for an oil cooler and catch can. The following parts will also be installed this winter:

MM PHB/HD TA
MM k-member
MM RA3 struts
MM RA2 shocks
MM F/R coil overs
MM Adjustable front/rear swaybars
'00 R steering rack
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It'll be a sweet car, honest!





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Lost all enthusiasm for this project. Totaled my '98 GT daily driver 16-November-2016 and bought a '15 F150 02-December-2016. Decided to sell the entire powertrain to a friend and move in a different direction.
Meet the new direction:

Engine installation by oldawgnewtrikz, on Flickr
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Old school

Cool!!
Old school

Cool!!
Yeah, sort of. Not quite as old school as the 351w stroker I sold though.
anything before the coyote is old school.....IMHO
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anything before the coyote is old school.....IMHO
Yeah, Coyote's are the #### but I agree; It's nice to see something 'era specific' instead of the 'easy way out'. I have a basic, ported Eaton swap with 2.76/+4 pullies, a much better heat exchanger and an E85 fuel system to install once I get some other stuff sorted.
Since I fail at updating this thread with any semblance of regularity, I'll fill y'all in with pictures..

1 & 2) First, I stripped the car down and swapped in the entire wiring harness from the donor Cobra. Then, I swapped out the old QA1 k-member for a new MM piece. Also, swapped out all of the brake lines, ABS pump, and installed hydroboost. Lastly, installed the interior from my 98 GT and put in a Corbeau Forza Sport fixed back seat.

3) My buddy started building the 4.6 in his wife’s kitchen and we finished it in my workshop. Moments away from installing the engine, we snapped an ARP flywheel bolt off in the crank. :| That prompted a reversal of events to extract the crank. About a month later, we re-assembled the engine and dropped here in.

4) Currently the engine swap is into the nickle and dime, “punch list” phase:


  1. Finalize the coolant system COMPLETE
  2. Install the AC lines COMPLETE
  3. Affix the engine grounds COMPLETE
  4. "nut & bolt" check everything
  5. Introduce engine fluids, leak test fuel system
  6. Install x-pipe and driveshaft COMPLETE
  7. Introduce ATF and install shifter
  8. Function test, flash start-up tune, first start, leak test again
  9. Put it on the highway to seat the rings and hope for the best


5) Didn’t like the PS setup so I converted it over to AN hoses. You can see the various MM front suspension bits. That is a 2000 Cobra R steering rack.

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1) Found a T56 with a 26-spline input shaft to rebuild.

2) Carbon fiber T1 & export tail lights

3) Functionally disfunctional heat extractor hood that I traded some parts for..

4 & 5) Jongbloed 557 Aero in 18x11 & 18x12

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The finer things in life.

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