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Any update on performance with the Volvo controller? Requires two outputs from ECU to run hi/lo?
Haven't messed with it yet, still on my bench.


It's 3 wires in. Power, ground, and a single wire back to the ECU for control using PWM.

2 wires out to the fan. I'm using a V6 Sn95 fan, which is Hi only.


Only thing really keeping me from testing it is that I'd need to pull a battery out from one of my vehicles to bench test
 

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Haven't messed with it yet, still on my bench.


It's 3 wires in. Power, ground, and a single wire back to the ECU for control using PWM.

2 wires out to the fan. I'm using a V6 Sn95 fan, which is Hi only.


Only thing really keeping me from testing it is that I'd need to pull a battery out from one of my vehicles to bench test
ought to buy a 1000+ watt server power supply for bench testing electronics. This is what I use and works pretty darn well.
 

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i know. It would make things very easy. I need to search for one to buy
 

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Any update on performance with the Volvo controller? Requires two outputs from ECU to run hi/lo?
None yet. In the midst of my project as we speak. Engine being rebuilt, chassis next, and hopefully wiring up the MS3x and fan controller this summer.
 

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How is the PIMPx accomplishing the fan control?

I just got an MS3 Gold and am trying to figure out what I need to do to get the fans to work.

I pulled this from DIYAUTOTUNE:

"If you have an MS2, you can use the two stepper IAC outputs to drive the relays – just wire the two IAC1 wires across the coil of the low speed fan relay, and the IAC2 wires across the coil of the high speed fan relay."

I assume that this would work on the MS3?
 

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Finally getting around with playing with this. Some things have changed since. I've ditched my single 94/95 fan and opted to run a contour dual fan. The dual fan (with the LMR bracket kit) just fits like a glove.

In doing so, I've browsed around at different PWM fan controllers for vehicles stumbled across a common fan controller used in many different vehicles. Because the contour fan is a dual fan, I intended to tie both fans in together after the controller, but was concerned with load on the controller. A lot of the controllers were only 30-40A.

So i found the Volvo S80 controller (it's on many other vehicles as well). See the photo below. There are versions of this controller that are single fan, with only one output, so a lot of this may apply to the single fan units too.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Automotive super charger part


As you can see, it's a dual fan PWM controller. Checking wiring diagrams across the net, i've found that vehicles equipped with this controller use a 60A fuse (unsure about single fan units). The terminal size and the wiring also looks to be appropriately sized. This should be plenty for the contour fan.

I found a controller dirt cheap. Plugs however were trickier to find but i have a set on the way. Simple wiring really. BIG beefy power contacts in along with a single PWM wire.

I plan to do some benchtop testing shortly as I receive parts, but this should be a pretty clean setup for those running the contour fans.


EDIT: For those interested in the volvo controllers, these come in single fan and dual fan units. They look the same but the single fan units lack output terminals on one side (see below). S60 fan controllers are single fan, S80 can be either single or dual. Stay away from the aftermarket controllers. They are junk

S60 single fan unit
Automotive lighting Toy Camera accessory Font Gadget



S80 dual fan unit
Rectangle Font Automotive exterior Auto part Plastic
 
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Ok. Did my initial testing. Change in plans, as my S60 fan controller seemed to not work properly. After trying to get it to work I abandoned it.

I ended up buying an Infinity Q50 fan controller (same as Mazdas and other vehicles) which is much more plentiful and cheaper. I actually bought two for $15 each. The Volvo S80 dual fan controllers are a bit pricey at $80+. The cheaper S60 controllers which are single fan are a little cheaper at $30ish

Volvo S60 unit on the left (single fan, only has outputs on one connection) and Infiniti/Mazda unit on right
Adapter Technology Wood Adapter Font



Anyway. The Volvo S80 dual fan units seem to be rated for 60A continuous. I dug through pages of wiring diagrams and fuse box diagrams and saw that most vehicles equipped with this controller had that. The wiring on this is beefy. I bought some aftermarket connectors and the power into the unit was #8 wire, with #10 outputs to the fan.

The Q50 unit i bought was a little bit smaller in Amperage, at around 50A. Most inifnitis use it, which is why I found them to be so cheap. They run dual fans on them. The aftermarket wiring harnesses for them are a little undersized IMHO. #12 into the unit and #16 out. The factory wiring is #10 wire into the unit, and #12 out.

Here is the Infinti controller mounted and wired to my dual contour fan.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive design Alloy wheel


Input to the controller is easy. It's just a main power wire, a ground (both 10g wiring) and a smaller single wire for PWM control. That's it.

Now, you want to put the main power wire on a relay. The Bosch 75A relay should be plenty. Reason you want to kill power to the controller is because when the PWM wire loses signal, it defaults to max speed. So depending on your PWM controller, if you power off and the wire goes open, it may spool the fans off. For reliability,use a relay. I'm also using a 40A maxifuse

For operation, grounding the PWM wire will turn the fans off. Disconnecting the wire goes to fail-safe and they will spool to max in a soft-start method. Theoretically i guess you could put the PWM wire on a relay and just open and close it to do off/on control with a soft-start.

I used a cheapo $10 PWM Generator for testing. For this controller, i found 500hz to work well. 100Hz wouldn't run it, but i think anything over 200hz did. Duty cycle from 0-23% kept the fan off. Duty cycle 24% turns it on it's lowest speed with a current draw of 1.2 amps. 100% duty cycle will give you max speed with just under 24 amps of draw on this particular fan.

The Volvo fan controller that I didn't use (and most Bosch's) operate differently. They seem to operate around 100mhz and have a functional range between 10%-90% duty cycle. I haven't played with them yet to give you more accurate details.

I have a Fluke DMM which will do motor inrush. I wanted to measure the motor inrush with this controller and using a standard on-off relay. First, i just did a relay with 1 fan. On startup, a single contour fan drew over 60A for less than a second before settling out to 12.4 amps. That's just one of the fans. I assume having both fans wired up will result in a inrush of over 100A on startup.

Next up, i used the infiniti controller with it's soft-start. For this test, i grounded the PWM wire to turn the fan off, and then released it to spool the fan to max. Even doing this, it was a slow ramp up. Amperage never exceeded 24A.

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So tuner studio will not do PWM output for fan control. It only does it for relay control. You have to setup a Generic PWM output based on coolant. I'll have to test 250 Hz to see if the controller works on that

I set this up on my MS3X and will hook it up to the fan controller PWM and do some bench testing shortly. It should work nicely so stay tuned.
Computer Rectangle Personal computer Screenshot Slope



My thought it to set up a relay control in the fan menu that will operate a relay installed on the PWM wire so that i can still enable AC on and turn the fan off when cruising on the highway. I'll need to figure out this strategy though
 

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Just to update. Got it running in a test configuration. It does look like Tuner Studio will incorporate PWM control in the Fan Control menu in the latest Beta. So that will make setting up things much easier.

I hooked this controller up and ran it. Some info here.


 

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Just to update. Got it running in a test configuration. It does look like Tuner Studio will incorporate PWM control in the Fan Control menu in the latest Beta. So that will make setting up things much easier.

I hooked this controller up and ran it. Some info here.


Hi Mike,
very happy having found your posts regarding the dual Volvo Controller. Did you get the Controller running yet? I bought an aftermarket device as well, but i don't get it running. Played around with several frequencies, but can't get it working.

Can't believe that it's scrap out of the box...:unsure: Maybee i burned it, not beeing sure what polarity the supply connector is. But only with 1Amp limited current on the benchtop. Can you help me with your findings? Do you know polarity and pwm working of the device?

I want to get my MS3Pro working with the controller for dual cooling fan and maybee fuelpump.

Frank
 

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Hi Mike,
very happy having found your posts regarding the dual Volvo Controller. Did you get the Controller running yet? I bought an aftermarket device as well, but i don't get it running. Played around with several frequencies, but can't get it working.

Can't believe that it's scrap out of the box...:unsure: Maybee i burned it, not beeing sure what polarity the supply connector is. But only with 1Amp limited current on the benchtop. Can you help me with your findings? Do you know polarity and pwm working of the device?

I want to get my MS3Pro working with the controller for dual cooling fan and maybee fuelpump.

Frank
I made a last minute change in controller in post #28. I didn't use the Volvo controller but instead used an Infiniti Q50 controller. I did get the Infiniti unit working with the megasquirt and the video above shows me controlling a 94/95 fan with it and my MS3X. I'm actually using a Contour dual fan with it on my Fox but i previously used a 94/95 fan.


I still have my Volvo unit, so when i get a chance I will play with it a bit to see if i can figure out how to make it work. I don't think 1AMP is enough to kick the fan on however. I think you need more current for testing.



EDIT: I remembered why I abandoned the Volvo controller. I believe mine is bad. I set up the volvo controller and once i wired it up, i found it turned the fan to MAX without any connection of the PWM wire (meaning it was in failsafe mode). However, trying to control the unit with either 12V or grounding of the PWM wire, or sending a signal from the MS did nothing. It only ran on high. I suspect a bad unit here as this is typical behavior when these units fail.
 

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Do you have any experience in running a cooling fan with dual coil? My sn95 fan has a low- and high speed winding, which i'm planning to control with a dual controller. Having full cooling power at 100%pwm, only using one pwm output of the msq.
Would you expect any interference, driving both windings together with pwm current?
 

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Do you have any experience in running a cooling fan with dual coil? My sn95 fan has a low- and high speed winding, which i'm planning to control with a dual controller. Having full cooling power at 100%pwm, only using one pwm output of the msq.
Would you expect any interference, driving both windings together with pwm current?
Unfortunately I do not have experience with that. The SN95 fan i'm using in the video is a V6 model which only uses the high speed side. There is no low speed winding so i cannot test it directly


You'd really have to test it out directly, or perhaps even change the fan motor to one from a V6 model
 

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I still have my Volvo unit, so when i get a chance I will play with it a bit to see if i can figure out how to make it work. I don't think 1AMP is enough to kick the fan on however. I think you need more current for testing.
Just watched the output with my oscilloscope on the workbench having a lightbulb connected as load.
Not knowing the right polarity of the supply connector, i limited the supply current to 1 amp. If i connect the right connector to negative ground, i get a current up to the limited value. Wiring the left connector to ground makes no significant initial current, but i can't observe a function at the output
 

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This is how mine ran. Right connector (looking from front) to negative ground. Reversing the leads does not work.

however my unit seems to be locked at full output no matter what input I give it. I suspect it’s faulty which is why I didn’t go far in my research on this type

Circuit component Gadget Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Electronic component
 

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This is how mine ran. Right connector to negative ground.

however my unit seems to be locked at full output no matter what input I give it. I suspect it’s faulty which is why I didn’t go far in my research on this design

View attachment 1082123
Ok. Thanks for the photo. In this configuration, i have the initial current up to my limiter. Not knowing, what the output says. So if you have a connector with coloured wires, "your" polarity seems to be right. Fancy device..

It's a pity... Looks nice, good price, not understanding how it works
 

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Ok. Thanks for the photo. In this configuration, i have the initial current up to my limiter. Not knowing, what the output says. So if you have a connector with coloured wires, "your" polarity seems to be right. Fancy device..

It's a pity... Looks nice, good price, not understanding how it works
It looks like the polarity, shown in your setup, isn't correct. If i connect my device like you did, the internal capacitors blow up (because of reverse polarity). As i connect ground to the left pin, the internal microcontroller shows +5V at its supply pins. But still no function with analog input at the control pin. Maybee your device is already bricked, because of wrong polarity😕. And mine now too.
I will bury this approach and make my pwm fan control by myself. With Mosfets.
Frank
 

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Do you have any experience in running a cooling fan with dual coil? My sn95 fan has a low- and high speed winding, which i'm planning to control with a dual controller. Having full cooling power at 100%pwm, only using one pwm output of the msq.
Would you expect any interference, driving both windings together with pwm current?
Why don’t you just control high speed with pwm? Leave low alone
 

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It looks like the polarity, shown in your setup, isn't correct.
If i flip the polarity, it creates a large load on my power supply, which is rated for 30A. The test fan does not operate. If i hook it up as shown, the load is appropriate and the fan spins. I am just unable to control.


Maybee your device is already bricked,
Correct, which was mentioned several times as the reason I abandoned it and went with the Infiniti/Mazda fan controller, which is working well for me. This Volvo S60 unit is going in the trash
 
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