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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey guys,

so i called Moser today and ordered up a set of 31 spline axles for the stang.

I street drive the car regularly and when i told moser this, they told me they would NOT star flange the axles!! I really want to get the star flange axles however... so i really think its no big deal. The axle IS forged for crying out loud....

Has anyone used star flanged axles on a street car before? Looking for some firsthand accounts.
 

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hey guys,

so i called Moser today and ordered up a set of 31 spline axles for the stang.

I street drive the car regularly and when i told moser this, they told me they would NOT star flange the axles!! I really want to get the star flange axles however...
Why?

The axle IS forged for crying out loud.... so why would star flanges "weaken" it any?
Hmm -- could it be because you're removing material from the hub?

I realize if your out drifting or acting like a retard and smack a curb, the likelyhood of breaking off the axle flange is good, but i don't do that kind of junk.
Do you ever hit potholes? It'd suck if you hit a pothole and a wheel snapped off...

It's more likely for liability reasons. Moser doesn't want to risk someone suing them because a modified part failed on the street and caused an accident.

Still, you've got to weigh the risks versus the rewards.

Rewards:
  • Slightly reduced rotational weight (which you can easily get by running lighter tires and wheels at a lower level of risk.

Risks
  • Weaker wheel/axle joint
  • Running a part against the manufacturer's recomendation, which opens up BIG liability issues for you.

If it were me, I'd stay away from this mess.
 

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i did a 9 inch with 40 spline axles and was told not to do them. its some think
u cant see when the brakes are on. if they are telling u not to do them i would listen to them
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Everyone gets freaked when you mention "removing material" to lighten the axles.

total weight dropped with star flanges is 4lbs. might not sound important to many people, but to me, thats 4 pounds i could do without.

So, you are literally saying if i hit a pothole the axle will snap off even though a crappy stock 28 spline axle can handle the abuse? That doesn't even make sense. they aren't necking down the actual hub to make it weaker, they are removing material between the studs to drop weight. So why would it just "bitch up" and snap off on a pothole when it can withstand pulling a 1.3 60ft time on slicks.

Pretty sure the slicks and hard launches are ALOT more stressful than street driving....

So I guess nobody has had star flange axles on the street. Well crap. I was hoping i could get someone's .02 who had FIRST HAND experience on the subject.

Guess Ill be the first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
they say every 100 pounds is a 10th off your et at mid 12 sec- 13 sec car. so the 4 pounds is not going to help u much
every 8lbs of ROTATIONAL weight (ie driveshaft, flywheel, gears, axles, wheels) equals a tenth. I also had the gears cut by Moser to off some weight there.

every 100lbs of dead weight equals another tenth.
every 10hp equals a tenth.

theres a million ways to skin a cat.
 

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waste of time and money to remove that amount of weight..

if it makes your little dYck get hard then do it yourself...and then you yourself wil be responsible for the failure




IF you thought that there was a DOUBT,

then why did you even bother to ASK....??????????
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well I guess since nobody has had the nuts to do it, I will.

thats the difference between a win and a loss- pushing the limits.
If it does break, big whoop. 300 bucks and 2 hours of my time.

thanks for the "valuable" input on this one. :rofl:
 

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i think u need to add some parts if u are tring to make up for 4 pounds of rot wieght but u could gun drill the axles too but that is something i was told not to do because the wieght of my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Im about max'd out on parts for my N/A build. Going for the retune next week after adding a TON of new goodies. Should be somewhere between 360/380rwhp.

guess some spray would be the next best step. Still going with the lightened gears/ star flanged axles. Unfortunately, you can't gun drill anything under 33 spline or i probably would have done that as well.

Car currently weighs 2990 on a cat scale. I've been chipin' weight off all over the place, but i still have a full interior with all my creature comforts and factory leather seats. Some lightweight seats are in order for november, but new 31 spline moser's are on the menu for october. 4.30's should "wake it up" compared to the 3.27's. Should get me into the high 11's. Currently running 12.40's with the "factory" gears and 28 spline axles.
 

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dont forget to add the grafiX and the wing and wheelie wheels.....
 

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no one does it because ,

common sence tells you that it is weaker on the street with the side loading of making turns...

a handfull of pounds is not going to make the pos run much if any faster...

there are 1000 more ways that will make it faster than doing the axles....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
dont forget to add the grafiX and the wing and wheelie wheels.....
I guess you just assume anyone on the quest to run faster is a ricer ###? pretty bias if you ask me. maybe only having "100" posts somehow makes me a amateur in life where people are out there hitting the track every weekend trying to shave off a tenth of a second at a time and progressively getting quicker. As for wheelie bars, you don't need them if you have a functional suspension that properly transfers the weight to the rear tires. I owe alot of my track success (60ft) to my adjustable suspension. I don't think anyone tries to pull the wheels on purpose. 6-12 inches off the ground is "cool" i guess but only needed in cars that have trouble planting the tires.

I would figure someone with your "slogan" would be somewhat more constructive in their advice. I guess its just easier to put something down rather than offering constructive criticism.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
this is not true, if you add 10 hp to a 10,000 lb truck its not going a tenth faster, never heard the 8lb thing either; not sure about that though
Its more of a "rule of thumb" thing and it really only applies to hot rods. Most of us are somewhere between 2500 to 4000 or lighter. as for the rotational weight "myth" it tends to hold true. typically for every 8-10lbs of rotational weight you can cut (lighter forged rims, aluminum driveshaft, ect) you can gain rpm's faster which won't give you any more horsepower, but you will see it on the track with a faster ET.
 

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Going mid 10's it is about 22-24 hp per .10

I don't buy the 8lb rotating either. Every little bit helps but it takes more than that and depends on where it is in the car.

Side loading is going to hurt a star flange. I would not trust the whole axle from moser let alone the flange. Been there done that and bought better stuff the next time.

Tim
 

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Its more of a "rule of thumb" thing and it really only applies to hot rods. Most of us are somewhere between 2500 to 4000 or lighter. as for the rotational weight "myth" it tends to hold true. typically for every 8-10lbs of rotational weight you can cut (lighter forged rims, aluminum driveshaft, ect) you can gain rpm's faster which won't give you any more horsepower, but you will see it on the track with a faster ET.
The energy used to accelerate a mass, rotationally, depends on the mass's distance from the center of rotation. 1# at the outer edge of a flywheel takes a lot more energy to rotate than 1# on the outside of the driveshaft, for example.

If you want to lower the rotational intertia in your car, you're best off looking at lighter tires, wheels, the car's flywheel, and clutch assembly. Small-diameter stuff like wheel flanges are pretty low on that list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well i called moser again today and spoke to a different rep who's name will be witheld-

apparently people do this all the time. due to the axles and wheels on the stang being "hub centric" all the side loading is really "centered" to the hub and will not affect the star flanges.

as for hitting a pothole, it would be the same if you had a solid flange or star flange. wouldn't matter.

as for weight, the guy i spoke with monday told me 2lbs per side. the guy i spoke with today told me 2lbs total. Will i still get it? sure, why not. every bit counts toward something.

Moser's only real concern was that i was using a c clip axle on the strip. I believe you can get away without c clip eliminators until the 11.50 zone- but i will have to pick up a new rulebook and check. either way, im just under a full second slower than that, so it won't matter. And there really isn't stress on that little c clip when launching anyway... but, if the axle DOES break, the disc brakes will hold it in, unlike the drum brakes on my old fox. you snap a axle there and it rolled right out!

Well im done with this thread. got what i needed!:king:
 
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