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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have this pan in my Maverick. I noticed that the vacuum pump was not making much vacuum (7" at 7700 RPM) and it should be 12-14". Did a smoke test on the crankcase tonight and I see lots of smoke around the RF corner of the pan. The pan does not have one hole drilled in the rail for a bolt in the timing cover and that is exactly where it leaks. I SHOULD have paid a little more attention when I put it together, now I have to pull the engine back out of the car and fix it.

Anyone notice that it's missing one bolt hole?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What gasket did you use?
don't remember the part number, rubber w/steel insert. Not the blue fel-pro one, I never really liked those. This one is a darker gray.

There is a clear gap where the pan rail sags below the timing cover. Just on the one side. I took care to line up the cover with the block for this very reason, so it's not a cover issue. No oil leaking out but on a vacuum pump equipped engine everything's got to be sealed up tight.
 

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The Moroso pan I have fit extremely well. It was also missing the two bolt holes under the timing cover. I have the engine apart right now so maybe I will go ahead and drill the holes.

My pan also had a small pin hole leak in one of the welds below the oil line. I cleaned the pan as much as I could (it was in the car) and zapped it once with my MIG and it has not leaked since. It is probably a good idea to check all of the welds on any pan you get from them.
 

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get an old gasket... remove the bolt beside the missing bolt hole.. temporary glue gasket there... hit with orange spray paint... remove gasket... center punch the orange circle... drill it very slowly... when you break through, install bolt and keep on trucking..
 

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Bead of RTV all around the perimeter of the oil pan rails.

Ain't pretty but it seals the SOB...
 

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get an old gasket... remove the bolt beside the missing bolt hole.. temporary glue gasket there... hit with orange spray paint... remove gasket... center punch the orange circle... drill it very slowly... when you break through, install bolt and keep on trucking..
There is no room. The drivers side bolt would be inside the sump.
 

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The key is ultra black in a caulk tube. Lay down a SMALL bead on the block, corner to corner. Lay the one piece gasket on. Lay down another, SMALL bead on the gasket. By far and away the best sealing pans, because of the end seals which are tongue and groove design.
Ultra black in the caulk gun is the only way to go for sure.
 

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The key is ultra black in a caulk tube. Lay down a SMALL bead on the block, corner to corner. Lay the one piece gasket on. Lay down another, SMALL bead on the gasket. By far and away the best sealing pans, because of the end seals which are tongue and groove design.
Jim do you put a bead on the end seals too?
In the pan groove?
Thanks for all your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
pulled engine, removed pan. The pan is definitely not flat, nowhere near. Cleaned everything up, bent the pan rail close to where it needs to be and reinstalled. Did that yesterday. Today I reinstalled the engine after a smoke test, all is well. So far. Had it running for a few minutes earlier but it was getting late and I don't really agree with fumes too much, not inside the shop anyway. I'll run it more later this week, outside. Makes a little more vacuum at idle too. 4" before, 7" now.


Dunno if I damaged the pan or what, but to conclude, you can't be too careful with this stuff. Gotta watch everything. Thought about drilling the pan rail so it'd have the extra bolt, but there's a weld right there and it'd take a good bit of work to make a bolt go through it, and even then because the rails are pretty thick, I don't know if it'd do much. The stock pans are paper thin and they NEED that bolt.

On another note, on this car, the transmission has to come out before the engine (they don't come out together) and I also noticed that when I was under it after the last race a big of fluid on the pan fins....looked at it while it was out and found the bellhousing hits the pan rail; I guess that wasn't trimmed quite enough when I cut the case. Fixed that too. Had a tiny tiny leak at the time. I know why it was like that too. I converted the front thrust washer to a bearing and in doing so had to use a thinner pump gasket, which put the pump that much closer to the pan rail. Only a few thousandths but that's all it took to hold the pump just far enough away from the case to cause a very slight leak. Fixed now.
 
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