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I have a fully machined and fresh roller block I had for a project.
Square Decked
Align Honed with Main Gurdle and studs
Bored and Honed with plates.
all fresh and quality machined.
Mario
New Jersey
 

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935 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
i need one that is a roller block 351w with spider hold down set up for roller lifters and not O-ringed thanks tho
 

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Why is anyone hung up on having a roller block? Sure they take factory roller lifters. But they are no stronger, may have cracks (see the PSA sticky), and people think they are worth more. But if you pay less and don't have to worry that the block might have cam tunnel cracks and you can find one more easily (you can as they made way more non-rollers), you can run link bar lifters and be on your way.

At this point in my growth of knowledge, I'd choose a non-roller block first and foremost. Because buying a roller block and having it checked for cracks to maybe have it have cracks and junk it to have to go buy another and repeat costs time, money and effort to locate engines. Time = money and potential aggravation. Seems worth it to me to skip all that. The difference is 2-300 bucks more and in the total picture of dollars spent to build an engine, an extra 2-300 bucks is not a lot. You'll likely spent 25 times that building the engine.

That's just the way I see it.
 

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A roller block ensures 2 things for a casual end user. It will accept his lifters he has assuming he has individual lifters and it ensures he is receiving a 1 piece rear main seal.
 

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Looks like any E4 or newer block should have the one piece rear main seal from some searching. E4 being on the bubble, it's be worth checking before buying. The E5 or E9 are well after the change over date.
 

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I’ve got one from a 97 f350. Tore down and looks good. I’m undecided on using this one or going dart for boost. Contact @ 205-712-2243 for more info.
 
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