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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This will hopefully be the end of the brake headaches for me. 1986 mustang 4cly. I have a 86 svo master cylinder and the mm proportioning valve delete kit. 3 to 2 port conversion for the brake lines also. Now i want a Line lock which one to get seems to be the issue? lines are 1/4 inch and the line locks are all looking like 1/8 of ports all of them that are on summits site any ideas or which one would work well would be great thanks

also when making the new brake lines how important was to to make all of the bends that the factory did? length is about the same as the factory ones.
 

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This will hopefully be the end of the brake headaches for me. 1986 mustang 4cly. I have a 86 svo master cylinder and the mm proportioning valve delete kit. 3 to 2 port conversion for the brake lines also. Now i want a Line lock which one to get seems to be the issue? lines are 1/4 inch and the line locks are all looking like 1/8 of ports all of them that are on summits site any ideas or which one would work well would be great thanks

also when making the new brake lines how important was to to make all of the bends that the factory did? length is about the same as the factory ones.
The longer lines will just mean more fluid to fill would not make a difference if it was 10" vs 10' so long as you have no air in the lines .
Now if you want to do it in a neat way do like I did ( I have 4 wheel disks not sure if you do ) I located my adjustable proportioning valve and Hurst line lock inside the wheel well area see pics and routed the line off of the fire wall to the wheel well area down to the radiator support and back around to hook back up to the rear brakes did the same for the lines going to the front brakes and I eliminated the factory shuttle valve as it was no longer needed .
I did all the work myself and I think I have about 100.00 into all the lines ( bought extra 6' sections as I new I would make some mistakes and did )and the tools I bought it was well worth the effort . I may not have the best looking engine bay but it is much cleaner looking and for my car about the only thing you see now is motor nothing else to catch your eye for the most part . Sorry to run on .


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How did u run the frt left line? That looks great did u have to replumb the while car or just the frt half? Did the OEM lines bend under the frame rail and how did u connect there ? Mine looks like #### compared to that . That looks great and thanks for the pictures they really shed some light on it
 

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How did u run the frt left line? That looks great did u have to replumb the while car or just the frt half? Did the OEM lines bend under the frame rail and how did u connect there ? Mine looks like #### compared to that . That looks great and thanks for the pictures they really shed some light on it
Same way it did for the rear none of the line from the master to the rear factory line are new lines I did the hole pluming job . I just did the front half and tied into the factory line that goes to the rear just inside the fender line . You can see in one pic the one line goes to the prop valve that line runs outside of the sheet metal for the line lock it goes under and goes into a T fitting to branch off to the front left wheel then both lines continue forward and goes down to the radiator support go across and back up to the front line and then connect to the rear factory line .
You will make mistakes and that is expected just estimate the number of feet you will need and buy 3 extra 6' sections and go for it it took me 3 days ( only 2-3 hours per day ) to do as I was real particular about routing the lines from the master to the prop valve and line lock and I kinked a few lines . I will try to take a few more pics from under the car by wednesday and post them for you so you will see the routing .
 

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Not to hijack your thread, but can someone tell me what size plug to get for my '91 master cylinder to plug off the bottom port when doing the 3-2 conversion? Thanks.
 
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