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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just converted to a C-4 full manual foot break no trans brake, 4000 to 4200 stall from Dynamic Racing Transmissions
So after pre stage do I bring it in up on what the convertor will allow while I am going into stage, or leave from idle?
New to the auto, only drove a stick.
Thanks for the help!
 

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I like to get the rpm up some so its not at idle… then stab it when the light goes green. This will allow the converter to flash resulting in a higher rpm on launch than stalling it as high as it will go before it pushes thru the brakes. This is also how a lot of the footbrake grudge guys do it. But it all depends on what the converter likes and also what rear gear you have.
 

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Depends.

You said you are footbraking.

trick I use for my car (and everyone's stuff is different) is to use the staging rpm to adjust the reaction time. I know from 30 some years of bracket racing that if the sun is shining ON the tree, I am going to be late, so the RPM comes up a hundred or two. At night I'm going red so I'll back off a couple hundred. If I was up too late the night before I'm usually red all day so I know to back off even more, until the sun gets shining on the tree.

Typically stay 010 to 040. I don't like to be any better than 010. 010 will win 90% of bracket races in a footbrake car. With that staging depth is absolutely crucial. In one inch further I will easily go red. If I know the car rolls a little I'll back off a few rpm.

it can make you go crazy.

Main thing, get it to the track and play with it-and have a good time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I like to get the rpm up some so its not at idle… then stab it when the light goes green. This will allow the converter to flash resulting in a higher rpm on launch than stalling it as high as it will go before it pushes thru the brakes. This is also how a lot of the footbrake grudge guys do it. But it all depends on what the converter likes and also what rear gear you have.
I have a 4:30 rear gear
 

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some guys use a starting line enhancer...if rules (if there are any) allow. Basically you floor it and the SLE will only allow the linkage to pull the throttle to a certain (adjustable) point and RPM. Then you let go of the button and it instantly pops the throttle open. Works good. Another way to do it without an SLE is to move the pivot linkage on the throttle (carb, throttle body, etc) closer to the pivot, reduces the distance needed to achieve full throttle, and snaps the throttle open quicker. Similar for foot feed you can play with that too. My other car's clutch is similar, only moves maybe an inch from disengaged to engaged. Same for the throttle it's twitchy but it's a race car that goes down the track and gets pulled back.
 
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