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Discussion Starter #21
I'm biding my time saving up for the machine shop by tearing into the transmission. Anyone here know the TR-6060/T-56 Magnum very well? Got it for $350 with a loose input shaft. Picked up a bearing set for $100. Popped open the case and found the magnet all sort of goopy.



There was a general shiny paste, and then a bunch of little chunks.



I was confused as I continued pulling things apart - all of the gears looked flawless, the synchros were all surprisingly in great shape, nothing looked like it was missing anything. Until I took a second look at the input end of the output shaft - that's not a cast cap, that's a hardened bearing race that's been beat to ****.



And the corresponding outer race:



That's supposed to be a caged tapered roller bearing. I was able to get a bearing splitter behind the inner race, after some sharpening of the splitter and much swearing.



The outer race took even more swearing and some work with the Dremel, but I finally got it out. Those two things took about 2.5 hours.



So those chunks were the old rollers, and the shiny schmutz was the cage, ground down to a fine paste.

Because that bearing was totally MIA, the input and output shaft were free to bang around on each other. I'll probably end up replacing one set of synchros as its tabs were getting beat to death by the input shaft.



With that pulled, I can continue disassembling the shafts enough to get new bearings on there. There is one bearing in the tailshaft that I can't get out - it has an internal snap ring, but with no holes to get it out, just tabs. My kit came with a replacement but I don't know if I care enough to have that fight and get the bearing out.

I may need new shims to get the shaft preload correct, but the only set I can find is $50. I went through this same thing thing with my T5 and couldn't find anything less than the entire kit when I only need 1 or 2 shims. I'm in no rush right now so I can assemble, measure, and order just the shims I need if I can find a source.
 

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That "paste" around the trans drain plug is crazy! I've never seen something like that.
 

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Another good way to remove an inner race in a blind hole is to weld a bead on the bearing face of the race, most of the time it will fall right out.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Brilliant idea! I know they make bearing pullers that will catch on the tiniest lip of an outer race, but I didn't have one on hand to try, and this thing had been beat so smooth that there really wasn't any lip left.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Found a pic of when I brought the transmission home.



Went back and found the original emails from Craigslist - it was running when it was pulled from the '07 GT500, but had trouble going into 2nd and 5th or 6th. The 2nd gear is obvious as that pocket bearing was trashed and the synchro was off its seat. The 5th or 6th synchro (can't remember which one) had some visible wear on it. If I bought the upgraded hybrid synchros it'd be about $286, in addition to the $100 I spent on the bearing set. That eats into my machine shop budget but it's something I should do while I'm in here. I'd hate to put it all back together and find that it won't go into gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here's an interesting test I stumbled on:

  • 427 LS7
  • Speedmaster IR intake with 50mm runners
  • TFS Gen X 260 heads (flow 375/249 @ 0.600), ports are 2.4" x 1.37"
That's more displacement, a little more runner diameter, and a lot more head than I have. The 50mm TBs expand to a decently sized head intake port, and apparently it's not a bad thing. I'd be really interested to see what the manifold looks like between the TB and the head.

The 50mm runners have no issue supporting 640hp, which is encouraging.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Continuing to pull the mainshaft assembly apart. The internet tells me that this bearing is hard to get off, I don't disagree. I grabbed some longer 7/16" grade 5 bolts so that I could get my bearing splitter to bite on it, the bolts just bent.


Had to build up a high-stakes Jenga tower to get the shaft in the press.


I ended up using a Dremel to cut the cage off of the bearing, then the bearing splitter was able to bite on the outside lip of the bearing and it pressed off.


Got my new synchros in yesterday, oddly they look worn in? Is that something Tremec does to seat them? They were advertised as new and came in Tremec-labeled packaging.


Old on the left, new on the right. The new one is the hybrid style with the carbon inner surface, but the outer surface looks worn.


 

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Discussion Starter #30
With Tremec's blessing, I started reassembly. The input shaft was already done, so I slammed the mainshaft together up to the mid-case bearing. I put the new bearing in the oven while I tried to figure out which gear goes where. By the time I figured that out, I was able to drop the bearing straight into place. I nudged it with the press to make sure it was seated, and it was good to go.

With a bit of the table cleared off, I turned to the countershaft. Because its largest gear could slip between the beams in my press, it was much easier to knock those bearings off. New bearings went into the oven, outer races went into the freezer.





Everything went on fairly easily and I was able to put the input, main, and countershafts into place.





I spent some time cleaning up all of the mating surfaces and ran through my third can of brake parts cleaner. I had to use carb cleaner to blast the spooge off of the magnets, need to grab more brake cleaner tonight. I have the case in place, I need to torque down the bolts and then measure for shims. I'm also trying to figure out how to buy individual shims instead of blowing $50 on the full pack just to get the two I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I still have the remainder of my T5 shim pack from when I did that input shaft bearing a couple years back...these gears are a lot bigger. Maybe I'll give the guy a call and see if he has a source.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hoo boy. Just measured the end play on my main and counter shafts. Mainshaft play is 0.040", countershaft play is 0.035". Tremec spec calls for 0.0005 - 0.0035" of preload on both.



I measured the shims I pulled out when I disassembled the thing - mainshaft shim is 0.0405", countershaft shim is 0.0355"...giving me exactly 0.0005" of preload on both. Bottom of spec is...technically still in spec.

In theory, a little more preload would be okay and let the bearings open up a bit over time.

I suppose I can throw it together with the bearings and confirm no play and if so, just send it.
 
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