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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Let's get this out of the way - this combo is a cobbled together mess of compromises and bad ideas and it will never work.

Good? Good. Glad that's out of the way and we don't have to rehash it over and over again.

I've been scavenging parts for a few years now and I'm hoping to make this happen this year if I can scrounge up the cash to finish it.

This is going in the beat up trash '69 Cougar that I got for free. If it can't be pretty, it might as well be fast.



Spray bombed, suspension refreshed, new headliner and carpet, original seats are in great shape. New gas tank. All new brake lines. Factory front discs refreshed with new rotors and calipers, Shelby mod on the front suspension. New master cylinder and a proportioning valve. Big aluminum radiator. Swapped the old 2.70 open 9" out and installed an Explorer 8.8: 3.73, LSD, and disc brakes.







Sitting on a set of late model California Special Mustang wheels/tires I got for $200. Might keep them, might not. If you don't like them, I'd love to trade them to you for something better.



Car is an original 351W-2V with the FMX. It currently runs and drives, at least up and down my driveway. I've never taken it further than that.

I have grabbed a late model roller 351, pulled from a '96 F150 at the junkyard.


I listed the old 9" for sale and someone offered to trade me a 393 crank...done!
I've also nabbed a used set of Wiseco 5013h3 pistons, they're 302 pistons with a 13cc dish. With stock (football) rods, an 0.047 head gasket, and 9.500 deck height, and a 56cc chamber, that's 10.6:1 compression. If I deck it to 9.480 I end up with the pistons at zero deck (0.047 squish clearance) and 11.1:1 compression.



I have an XE282HR cam sitting on my shelf. Paired with 1.7 rockers it'd be a bit over the standard 232/240 duration at 0.050, and it'd be 0.602/0.612 lift. A little mild for something like this (and also totally wrong in every way). If you're unhappy with the cam, I'm more than willing to trade it to you for something better.

I just grabbed a set of 11R 205 heads from a member here, which I'm pumped about.



The cherry on top of this **** sundae is a Weber individual carb manifold.



That'll be topped with two pairs of Hayabusa individual throttle bodies. The racks can be split apart easily, I'll need to make some flanges to bolt to the manifold and hook to each TB. Injectors are common with Honda so it's easy to find bigger ones.



Nearly 50mm on the inlet. They're either too big or too small depending on which website you believe. A set can support over 280 hp on a bike, so in theory two sets could feed 560hp. That's enough flow that they won't be the restriction on my mish-mash of junk.

I'm picturing 8 stacks sticking out of the hood of that POS and I like it. I have a Megasquirt 3 with the MS3X setup to run it. I'm making a cam sensor out of a 5.0 Explorer and a 3.8 sensor. Ignition is LS coils. Fuel system is TBD, but I want it to be E85 compatible - I already have a flex sensor on hand. If I was going to modify the fuel tank it would have made sense to do so before putting gas in it, but oh well.

Last week I weighed up the pistons and pins and matched them all to within 0.5g. I checked the rod big and small ends and got them balanced to within 0.2g.





Machine work is the next step, just gotta find the cash to make it happen. Was quoted $1100 for block cleaning, crack checking, boring, line honing, cam bearings, crank grinding, assembly balancing, piston installation, and sizing all of the bearings. They can have it done in a few weeks. If they were assembling, it'd be at least 4 months.

Other parts I still need to get:

  • Rockers (1.7)
  • Pushrods (Length TBD)
  • Valve springs (Thinking PAC 1905-16)
  • PCV system (Design TBD)
  • Air filters
  • Lifters (Ford 302H)
  • Headers (will likely build my own)
  • Head studs (ARP 154-4003)
  • Intake studs
  • Main studs (ARP 154-5403)
  • Injectors (650cc)
  • Engine mounts
  • Fuel system
  • Widebands
If you've got a line on any of those for cheap, I'm all ears.

Transmission is another cobbled together mish mash that probably won't work. Preview:

 

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Cool project! Subscribing.
 

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I gotta say I enjoy your writing style.

I would not have traded away the 9" for that car for ANY 8.8 rear end. Ever. With a little research you could have put the disc brakes on the 9" and had it's strengths with the disc brakes. Drop the center section out and drop a 3.70 geared unit in. Doesn't matter now. Will watch for more.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I gotta say I enjoy your writing style.

I would not have traded away the 9" for that car for ANY 8.8 rear end. Ever.
I wish I could have afforded all of that - disc conversion kits for the 9" are...what...$350 minimum? A 3.70 center section with 31 spline axles and a clutch-type posi is...what...$800 minimum, $1600 for a good one? My axle was $150 from the junkyard, plus probably $100 for new calipers and rotors and a couple bucks for the spring pads. It should pretty easily handle any abuse I could give it. If you assume the crank I traded the 9" for is worth $250 then I got regeared, bigger axles, discs, and an LSD for $0. That's more the price that I can afford.
 

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This will be great, love the "if you're unhappy with blank I'll trade you" line

FWIW you might see about moving it to the project section so you can edit it beyond the limit imposed in this sub
 

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Good luck with the build. I have a set of solid motor mounts if your interested.
 

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That itb set-up will be pretty cool !
I built my 393w a couple of years ago it's been a lot of fun in my 93GT cruiser , controlling it with a PimpXS .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This will be great, love the "if you're unhappy with blank I'll trade you" line
People on the internet (myself included) LOVE spending someone else’s money. At some point, you just have to say, “this is all I’m willing to spend.” You can always go bigger, lighter, stronger, more, but those those things always add cost. I’m trying to see where I can get more for less (see the axle above) and then just calling it good enough. If I wanted it to be perfect it’d never get finished. I waffled for quite a while on aftermarket rods. They’re only a few hundred bucks and a much better choice than stockers. But that $300 going to the rods mean I have to wait that much longer until I can afford the machine shop. And at my power level and rpm, stockers will be more than good enough.
 

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looking forward to more of the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I dug through and found a couple of pics from January 2018 when I did the initial teardown of the junkyard block. My daughter had just been born so I was home helping take care of her. When kid and mom were sleeping I'd hit the garage and see what kind of trouble I could come up with.

Cleaning it up a little bit before teardown:


Mocking up the intake:


Pulling the intake confirmed the rollery goodness.


Took a whole bunch of steel (crank, heads, oil pan, etc.), aluminum (water pump, radiator), and copper (wire from work) to the scrapper, walked away with about $20 for the steel, $20 for the aluminum, and $230 for the copper.
 

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I've run ITB's on the race car (mech injected methanol). One thing worth noting: The larger the TB's, the more responsive the engine will be. I found it hard to regulate any part throttle.

Neat project!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've run ITB's on the race car (mech injected methanol). One thing worth noting: The larger the TB's, the more responsive the engine will be. I found it hard to regulate any part throttle.

Neat project!!
I know I'm going to have to be smart about the throttle cam design, maybe make it adjustable so that tip in isn't so severe.
 

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I wish I could have afforded all of that - disc conversion kits for the 9" are...what...$350 minimum? A 3.70 center section with 31 spline axles and a clutch-type posi is...what...$800 minimum, $1600 for a good one? My axle was $150 from the junkyard, plus probably $100 for new calipers and rotors and a couple bucks for the spring pads. It should pretty easily handle any abuse I could give it. If you assume the crank I traded the 9" for is worth $250 then I got regeared, bigger axles, discs, and an LSD for $0. That's more the price that I can afford.
I once put a 9" in an SVO ,1984, . I removed the drums and backing plates from the 9 and cut new bearing retainers from scrap 1/4". then cut out new caliper mounts copying the one from the original , welded them on. used the disc and calipers to find location. removed the spring perch. removed the original shock mounts and enlarged the hole,,welded them on, the upper controls were tougher..,all said I had NOTHING but time in the swap. the actual width was 1/2" less than stock, big deal. the 8.8 has weak axles BUT if you get one from an Explorer. the should be 31 spline and have a limiter slip,,,,,,have fun
 

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Discussion Starter #16
all said I had NOTHING but time in the swap. the actual width was 1/2" less than stock, big deal.
That just means you can run wider tires! Well done on all of that, it's the kind of thing I like.

the 8.8 has weak axles BUT if you get one from an Explorer. the should be 31 spline and have a limiter slip,,,,,,have fun
How 'bout a Mountaineer?

 

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love the idea... and hot rodding is all about using what you got.. trying new ideas... and making things work... sure it may not be the next pro mod... but damn it will be fun and cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Found another pic from when I pulled the Cougar home. It still had tires on it from 1978, they didn't hold air for more than a few minutes and I had to pull it about 10 miles home. I found a set of S197 Mustang wheels on Craigslist for $250 and, with the right spacers, they fit. They were enough to get me home. I ended up finding the later wheels so I sold these for at least as much as I bought them for.

 

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Why the hell wouldn't that work?
It'll both work and look cool!

Definetly following this!
 
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