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Discussion Starter #1
The instructions with the boost-a-pump said to tie into the brown/pink wire coming off the inertia switch, however, there's no such wire. There is a black/pink wire that comes off it into some sort of computery box behind the rear wheel well. Now, there is a brown and pink wire that comes out of this box and goes under the car, I'm assuming to the fuel pump. This is the wire I tied into, is this correct?

 

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Discussion Starter #2
ttt
 

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Now I know why some folks have had a hard time making them work right. The instructions suck.

I would say you have it correct.

In fact I might think you may even damage the driver module if you install the BAP inline with the inertia switch. That of course depends on what exactly is inside the module at that point.

What you want to amplfiy is the + going to the pump. Also a brown/pink wire. Pretty tricky huh? I tapped into the wire just as it went through the rear of the trunk under the car. That was the closest place I could find inside the car and closest to the pump.

Wire the BAP so it's on all the time and up all the way.

Hope that helps,

Ed
 

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Eds on the money. Also when its hooked up right you'll hear the pump running alot harder. Its no secret that is working.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea, I'm glad I traced the wires around and didn't just install it as per the directions. I found the brown/pink wire from where it disappeared through the grommet to beneath the car, and traced it back (it gets wrapped up in some shiny silver shielding w/the black/red ground wire) to the driver module. I didn't want to install the BAP down in the spare tire well, I liked the spot next to the inertia switch.

My next issue is this: I have it wired for full time operation, and the knob set at 50. Now, most of the time at idle my fuel pressure (per my gauge) is jumping from 30 to 50ish psi. It never did this before the install. Sometime while I'm driving it even bounces around a little. I tried turning the BAP all the way down, and all it does is lessen the range that the needle moves (maybe it moves from 30 to 40 at idle). Any ideas what's causing this?
 

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My fuel pressure looks perfectly stock, but you maybe finding somthing different than I see for a reason. I have my chip burnt for a Walbro GSS317 fuel pump even though I still use the stock pump. I expected to go to the Walbro at one time, but when I did I didn't like what it did to the fuel pressure.

There are tweaks in the chip to reduce the gain or the agressiveness of the computer to make adjustments to the fuel pressure. I didn't do this on purpose but it sure seems to work well if that's case.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I'll look into what the chip can do about it when I'm on the dyno in a few weeks.
 

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Hi guys.
I just bought a used boost a pump with no directions. Any chance of getting a scan of your directions?

I'm trying to label the wires coming out of the unit.

There are:

12 gauge red wires X 2 coming out (one is fused)
12 gauge black wires X 2 coming out (they're connected together on the end with a ring connector- looks like they were probably connected to ground
Then there are 2 black insulated wires, both containing a red and black conductor within. He has red & blk conductors within each wire soldered together. I'm assuming he created a closed switch by doing so. What were these wires originally connected to? Rheostat & hobbs switch I'm assuming? If yes, which is which?

I didn't get any switches or anything so I'm kind of in the dark on this. I only paid around $50 so I guess I can't complain.

Here's a pic of the unit.
http://troyxtroy.stangnet.com/images/kb.jpg


Thanks
-Troy
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry, no scanner, but I can tell ya what you need to know.

0. Find the brown/pink "hot" pump wire and cut it.

1. The red fused wire you want to tap into the "hot" pump wire on the "battery" side, i.e. the side the power is coming from.

2. The red wire with no fuse you tap into the "hot" pump wire on the "pump" side.

So, after 1 and 2 essentially the power is flowing from the power source, through the BAP, and to the pump. The wire you want to splice into is a brown/pink wire in your trunk. You can find it easily where it goes through a grommet with a few other wires and heads off under the car. On my car, I traced it back to a small computery box behind the rear driver's side wheel well, and tapped in just after the wire left this box.

3. The 2 black wires are ground (some units have 2 ground wires).

4. The two sets of red/black wires soldered together, 1 is for the pressure activated switch, the other set is for the dial controller. The way yours is soldered up, it's set up to be always on and always at max setting (which is how mine is set up a la Ed's and other's recomendations). Sorry I can't tell which set is which by looking at the pict., but I wouldn't worry about it, since it's set up how I'd think you want it anyways. Just tape us those connections so they don't short out on something.
 
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