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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally decided to get the Pro-M EFI system for my car. I really wanted to install this system in my car a few years ago but didn't go this route. I decided at the time to user an A9L with a quarterhorse chip to tune the car. The main reason I went this route was due to smog. I wanted a system that could still use the smog equipment making it easier to pass a smog test. My plan was to make the car street legal so I could drive it to autocross events that were about 8 miles from my house so I wouldn't need a truck and trailer. Now fast forward to this year and the autocross venue is gone for good and the only places I have to race are anywhere from 70-200 miles away. So now I own a truck and a trailer for the car that I've been using all year to go racing. Now the only street driving I'm doing is from my driveway into the back of the trailer. It got me thinking why I'm I using an outdated system when I could use the one I wanted all along. I've reached a point where I don't care if it passes smog or not.

Don't get me wrong the quarterhorse was fine. I got it tuned by someone that knew what they were doing and it worked pretty good. I did have some bucking issues with the car and sometimes it would stall and not want to start and if it did it was very unhappy. But it worked and the car ran so it was good enough while I raced this season and worked on the teething issues I had with the suspension, brakes and motor.

I'm hoping to get the system in the car before my last event in Dec 4-5 to test it out. I wouldn't seeing how the traction control works with this system. I think it might help me with corner exit on slow speed corners. I didn't go with the crank trigger or coil on plug but I'm thinking about doing the crank trigger. I've read a few threads on the crank trigger but there doesn't seem to be much info about how well it works.

If anyone has more feed back on the crank trigger kit let me know. Also if anyone has tips on installing it that would be helpful. I think i have watch every install video I can find on the system.
 

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Search the pro m section some more. But congrats on the system. All I can say is follow the directions to the letter, dont deviate, make sure you have a proper fuel system. if running stock lines and rails, go no bigger than a 190. make sure your grounds are correct, your starting and charging are in proper working order. make sure your engine is tight with no vacuum leaks

Happy to help. pm me with any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Search the pro m section some more. But congrats on the system. All I can say is follow the directions to the letter, dont deviate, make sure you have a proper fuel system. if running stock lines and rails, go no bigger than a 190. make sure your grounds are correct, your starting and charging are in proper working order. make sure your engine is tight with no vacuum leaks

Happy to help. pm me with any questions.
Luckily the motor is solid have around 1000 miles on it so far and its been running great. Did a leak down test on it and all the cylinders look great. The fuel system I have a 255 pump on a Pro-M hanger with 3/8 lines to the fuel rails. Unfortunately I still run the factory fuel rails with 30lb Pro-M injectors. I also added one of Pro-M shutter wheels to the distributor. The starting and charging system are working really good in the car but I might need to look at a new alternator since the bearing in mine isn't sounding to good after the last autocross. I feel like I have a good foundation for the system so I'm feeling pretty confident in the car. You can see more about my car in my build thread if you want to take a look.

1992 LX The street to track to street again build.

I'm probably going to purchase the crank trigger for the system since I think it will be a really good option to have and I might as well do everything at once. I still have some reading to do but I can't wait to get the system installed.
 

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Luckily the motor is solid have around 1000 miles on it so far and its been running great. Did a leak down test on it and all the cylinders look great. The fuel system I have a 255 pump on a Pro-M hanger with 3/8 lines to the fuel rails. Unfortunately I still run the factory fuel rails with 30lb Pro-M injectors. I also added one of Pro-M shutter wheels to the distributor. The starting and charging system are working really good in the car but I might need to look at a new alternator since the bearing in mine isn't sounding to good after the last autocross. I feel like I have a good foundation for the system so I'm feeling pretty confident in the car. You can see more about my car in my build thread if you want to take a look.

1992 LX The street to track to street again build.

I'm probably going to purchase the crank trigger for the system since I think it will be a really good option to have and I might as well do everything at once. I still have some reading to do but I can't wait to get the system installed.
either step down to a 190 or replace the rails. if you're not boosted, put the 190 in.
put all grounds to a singular point on the block. also run a 4g wire from the alternator to the same block ground.

i see bad grounds and mismatched fuel systems all the time.

are you running pcv or open breathers. cant do both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
either step down to a 190 or replace the rails. if you're not boosted, put the 190 in.
put all grounds to a singular point on the block. also run a 4g wire from the alternator to the same block ground.

i see bad grounds and mismatched fuel systems all the time.

are you running pcv or open breathers. cant do both.
I will have to look at the grounds. I'm basically running the factory grounding system. I have the battery in the factory position. I have a ground from the battery going to the block and ground strap going from the block to the firewall. I will have to add a ground from the alternator to the block ground.

I'm running a PCV system on the car. I also run two of these closed loop oil catch cans one between the PCV and the intake and one from the driver side valve cover to the intake similar to how the factory runs one from the oil fill neck to the intake. I also baffled the valve cover where I added the fitting for it.
S1 Oil Catch Can
 

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as long as you're not running an open breather thats fine. the old a9l was very forgiving when it came to grounds.

as long as everything is tight, install is really straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm starting the install on my Pro-M system and had a question. What do you guys do with the unused connections? I won't be using meth injection or the flex fuel or fuel pressure connections I might use the coil on plug connection at a later date.

also run a 4g wire from the alternator to the same block ground.
When you mention running a ground from the alternator to the same block ground should I run a cable from one of the bolts holding the alternator to where the battery grounds to the block? I have the negative battery post running to the timing cover like it would have been from the factory.
 

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2g or larger to the block. not the timing cover, intake, cylinder head, bellhousing bolt etc. read the directions, they make installation easy.

there is a metric hole in the back of the 3g alt case. use a 4g wire, or whatever size your charge wire is and run it to the same bolt on the block as everything else
 

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1965 fastback 347 hci v3-si Pro M efi. Tko600 3:55
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What do you guys do with the unused connections?
I purchased a assortment of black velvet drawstring bags from Amazon
(I can’t find the same assorted size pack on Amazon anymore)
Used the smaller ones to hold unused wires and connectors and then used larger one to hold all of the individual bagged ones together.
All zip tied behind engine near firewall for easy access.
-Just don’t cut or remove them lol.
The extra features are easy to set up and configure so you just might end up adding things you never considered.
I’ve already dug into the bag to hook up fuel pressure sensor, speed sensor, map sensor and now going to add water meth and soon enough I’ll be digging out the Ac compressor wire.
All things I did not even consider before using this system.
 

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It's funny that you should say that. Check out my post about that:
Researching running a pcv system with boost.
i remember reading that. The problem is that when you put a breather cap on the ps valve cover and cap off the hose from the filler neck, you make a vacuum leak. this drove me crazy because on one side the system was showing lean. since the pcv is sucking on the crankcase, its sucking the fresh air from the breather.

This isn't a problem for other systems because they typically depend on one wideband on one bank to sample from.

So when i was adjusting the low flow rate, the ds would be perfect and the ps would be too lean. this was fixed by adding catch cans to both side, located by the sides of the radiator. no smell yet. and using a expandable freeze plug from the parts store for the pcv.

my pro m intake doesn't have a provision for the pcv so yay!
 

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i remember reading that. The problem is that when you put a breather cap on the ps valve cover and cap off the hose from the filler neck, you make a vacuum leak. this drove me crazy because on one side the system was showing lean.
Oh believe me; I know. I went out and bought a screw in breather for the oil fill tube and capped off the rest. It threw my tune for a loop. I was just puzzled at why somebody like Chris would advise that. I even emailed him a second time and asked what to do with the hose running from oil fill to TB. That's when he told me to cap the nipples off.

Edit...I just typed "nipples" again and wasn't censored. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I hit one snag with the install of the wiring harness that I hope won't be a big problem. The round connector under the dash will not connect to the new EFI harness. One of the keys on the connector doesn't line up. Here's a some pictures of what I'm talking about.









Not sure if I can just cut the key off and connect it. I believe based on the labels on the wires this is for the air bag system which I don't need since my car doesn't have the air bags installed. Let me know what you guys think. The square connector was fine plugged right in without a problem.
 

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Oh believe me; I know. I went out and bought a screw in breather for the oil fill tube and capped off the rest. It threw my tune for a loop. I was just puzzled at why somebody like Chris would advise that. I even emailed him a second time and asked what to do with the hose running from oil fill to TB. That's when he told me to cap the nipples off.

Edit...I just typed "nipples" again and wasn't censored. :ROFLMAO:
the only way i caught it was i put my hand over the fill with the cap off. pulled the skin hard. blocked pcv hose, no more suction.

I tried my smoke machine, nothing showed because nothing was broken. and the car wasn't running. pulled my hair for days.

And this is why I have a problem with some tooners. they will see the obvious incorrect vac system, but they wont address anything. they'll just keep adding fuel until it masks it and the keep tooning. And then you fix it, and the car runs like crap. I said some tooners. There are plenty of competent, dependable tuners out there who know exactly what they are doing.
 

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So I hit one snag with the install of the wiring harness that I hope won't be a big problem. The round connector under the dash will not connect to the new EFI harness. One of the keys on the connector doesn't line up. Here's a some pictures of what I'm talking about.









Not sure if I can just cut the key off and connect it. I believe based on the labels on the wires this is for the air bag system which I don't need since my car doesn't have the air bags installed. Let me know what you guys think. The square connector was fine plugged right in without a problem.
its very rare that the pro m has the wrong connector on it but mistakes can happen. best to reach out to the man himself.
 

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its very rare that the pro m has the wrong connector on it but mistakes can happen. best to reach out to the man himself.
I thought you were the main man, Chris? 😉
 

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Thanks I just typing up an email to him.
If the pins and wire colors in the connector line up properly, just remove the locating tab that prevents the connector from being plugged in. Wrap it with tape and make a quick pass with a coarse file....problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well the day finally came to fire up the car. Everything went fine considering I also did some major changes to the oil cooling system and added an Accusump to the car. I did run into one problem with the wideband controller. I'm running the innovate DLG-1 in my car which I installed around 3 years ago. When I made the changes to the Analog output it's supposed to sync the DLG-1 settings with the LC-2 but it wasn't so I got a DTC error code. I had to disconnect the LC-2 from the DLG-1 plug it directly into my laptop and programed it. Then the DTC went away. I did find the timing was off so I got that set. The rest of the setup went fine. I still need to take the car on a test drive to see how it runs.

The one thing I did notice is the factory temp gauge is reading really high. When I look at the temp on the Pro-M it's reading normal around 190 but the gauge in the car is reading a notch above the halfway. If I look at my autometer gauge its reading about 193. Normally before the Pro-M system the car would stay around middle of the gauge when sitting idling. I'm guessing the Pro-M is reading the same sensor as the temp gauge.
 
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