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Discussion Starter #1
In reference to this thread here, by jcthorne: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=285166

Pulled em out, took all butterflys and rods out, epoxied the remaining holes, plugged the ends w/3/8'' NPT fittings, let the epoxy dry, slapped it back together.

So far I haven't fabricated the MIL since my gimp local Rad Shack didn't have the 206 socketed relay in stock. It runs though w/no check engine light, only side effect is a minor stumble at part throttle below 3k RPMs. Other than that, I lost hardly any low end oomph and gained a very nice amount of upper end power, actually a great deal of midrange too which surprised me.

This nice gain is from both the fact that my IMRC box was going south, and that I removed the butterflys/rod from the path of airflow in the plates themselves.

Overall a VERY successful mod, and removal of a future failure point. The 4.30s are going in tomorrow afternoon, so that'll be nice too.

Any questions you guys have, I'll try and answer 'em. :cool:
 

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COBRA90GT said:
It's alive! :evil:

Good to hear...
Thanks man :joy:

Guess I shoulda mentioned that BEFORE I reinstalled them, that the epoxy was sanded down smooth. ;)
 

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Yes, pics please!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually did take alotta pics, lemme upload em in the morning and i'll post em up. :cool:

Heading off to bed for now....
 

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Glad to hear it worked for you. Seems the 96-97s are not as pickey about the IMRC as the 98s. Mine tripped the MIL withing 3 drive cycles every time when the actuator had failed.

James
 

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Yes, please post pics. Also, I've heard the delete wasn't really necessary unless you added a blower or other power adder.

Let me know as I'm VERY interested and am sure all the other guys who come to the IMRC tech day this Sunday will be. And if you can PLEASE write up a "How-To" on this for those of us who may want to do it. Thanks man.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I referenced this page here, and worked out nicely.

http://www.flash.net/~ivc1/cobra/imrc.html

But there are some things that I can elobarate on for ya, that I wish I knew before I tackled the job. Will try and list them in chronological order as well.

First, to remove the intake cover, it's easier to just unbolt the EGR from the cover, rather than unbolt the EGR from the pipe or the pipe from the header. That one's pretty obvious though.
After that, everythings straight through, up until it comes time to remove the coolant crossover tube. I found it way easier to use a hand siphon pump, and pump the coolant out of the crossover, rather than draining the radiator, see pics below.





I had ZERO coolant spill, not even a drop. Also, the crossover itself has to be pryed from the heads w/a hammer, small crowbar, etc. Do each side a little at a time and be careful not to dent the tube as well.



After going through my pics, all the ones after that sucked, lighting wasn't good at all so I won't bother posting them, they'd just confuse anyone even more probably. :(

As for the plates themselves, first you want to remove the butterflys from the rod that goes through the plate. Each butterfly has 2 small phillips headed screws. In my case, the screws were so soft from all the carbon buildup/oil and such, that I had to drill them out versus just using a screwdriver.

Once all butterflys are out, remove the spring stopper on the end of the plate, and pull the rod out. Don't sweat the spring, a few turns and it looses pressure so it won't fly out and hit anything. :D

You may have to get a skinny screwdriver, or something similar to punch the rod out of the plate, beings that I drilled the butterflys out, the rod had gotten a bit mishapened so the rods were kinda rough getting out, but nothing too bad.

Once that's all said and done, clean em up really well. I used carb cleaner and a toothbrush to clean the area around the holes, beings that I used an epoxy to close the holes off. Needed a nice clean surface.

Next you need to get yourself some high temp epoxy for the holes left from the rod. I found some at my local Autozone, which is odd because they don't stock freaking anything it seems. Mix up the epoxy, and apply it to each of the holes, EXCEPT for the very last holes on each end. Those get plugged w/3/8'' NPT steel pipe plugs. Make sure that the epoxy is nice and thick, and that there's a good amount shoved into each hole, not just a thin layer over the hole. Let that sit for 48 hours to be safe.

Then you need a dremel tool. Once dried, dremel the epoxy down until it's smoothed to the contours of each port, nice and flat. Once that's finished, you can begin to put the 3/8'' NPT fittings in each end, plugging off the 2 end holes on both plates. For me this was a *****, getting them threaded nice and straight. My plates were the aluminum versions, and the fittings just did not wanna thread even. I managed though, took almost 2 and a half hours. :mad:

Now, once that's all said and done, clean them off nicely and throw em back in. Not much to tell about reassembly, just a reverse of disassembly obviously. I used a Haynes manual for torque specs and patterns, and an inch pounds wrench. No foot pounds in this paticular project. Don't get the two mixed up. :evil:

Once back together, next thing to do is the MIL. All of that is covered in the above thread by jcthorne. One thing I want to note, is that the socketed relay from Radio Shack, is a DPDT style, not DTDT. All cat numbers matched up nicely. Someone else also mentioned in that thread, that they extended their wires from the IMRC harness out to the side of the car, so the MIL was easier to manage and fabricate. I did this as well, and would recommend it.

Can't really think of anything else at the moment, i'll be sure and try to answer any other questions.

Oh, and it's alot easier if you take two minutes and remove your hood. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
'97CasperCobra said:
Yes, please post pics. Also, I've heard the delete wasn't really necessary unless you added a blower or other power adder.
I wanted to eliminate the IMRCs all together, didn't wanna have to redo this job another 30k miles down the road.

Even without gears in the back, the loss of low end is only obvious around 2k RPMs, from 2400 or so on up it runs just as good, and then at 4k on up it's a different power band, very consistent and strong.

As I said, this is due to the fact that my IMRC box was junk, and the fact that I did the deletes. I wouldn't attribute these gains to the deletes alone, yet I still believe they're a worthwhile mod regardless.
 

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So if I understand this process, you're just taking the imrc plates completely off, then plugging all the holes? Its a little confusing because I know they use to make imrc delete kits - and I dont understand what they'd have to supply you with if you're in fact tossing the plates out?

peace
 

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Tat98Cobra said:
So if I understand this process, you're just taking the imrc plates completely off, then plugging all the holes? Its a little confusing because I know they use to make imrc delete kits - and I dont understand what they'd have to supply you with if you're in fact tossing the plates out?

peace
Actually the holes he talks about plugging are in the IMRC plate themselves...there's a rod that goes down the center of the IMRC's that the butterflies are attached to...the actuator turns the rod, thus opening the butterflies...well when you make IRMC deletes you take this rod and the butterflies out which leaves holes between the ports that need to be filled with epoxy...I have a picture of mine to show but my website is down temporarily so I can't show it...

Just think of the IMRC's as 4 small throttle body looking things on each side of the engine that block the secondary intake ports when the car is under 3250 rpms and open up when the engine is over that speed. So you are actually re-using your IMRC plates, they just don't have the butterflies or the rod on them anymore. The delete kits that are sold are just a set of IMRC's that already have these removed...
 

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missouri_guy1973 said:
Actually the holes he talks about plugging are in the IMRC plate themselves...there's a rod that goes down the center of the IMRC's that the butterflies are attached to...the actuator turns the rod, thus opening the butterflies...well when you make IRMC deletes you take this rod and the butterflies out which leaves holes between the ports that need to be filled with epoxy...I have a picture of mine to show but my website is down temporarily so I can't show it...

Just think of the IMRC's as 4 small throttle body looking things on each side of the engine that block the secondary intake ports when the car is under 3250 rpms and open up when the engine is over that speed. So you are actually re-using your IMRC plates, they just don't have the butterflies or the rod on them anymore. The delete kits that are sold are just a set of IMRC's that already have these removed...
Got ya - sounds like a waste of money to buy a kit when you already have it waiting for ya under that intake

peace
 

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colt .45 said:
What kind of power gains are we talking here? Is a tune required afterwards?
A tune would get the most power out of it, but I wouldn't suggest that unless you have alot of other mods that would also benefit from the tune, to justify the cost.

All you need to do is setup the MIL and you'll have no problems.

The relay should be in today or tomorrow, so I'll let you know how it runs afterwards. Right now it's pretty smooth, but falls flat at WOT and stumbles in low RPM at part throttle due to me not having the MIL on yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OOPS!!

Forgot to log my buddy out, Majaluk, that's me in the above post under his account.

:p
 

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Majaluk said:
A tune would get the most power out of it, but I wouldn't suggest that unless you have alot of other mods that would also benefit from the tune, to justify the cost.

All you need to do is setup the MIL and you'll have no problems.

The relay should be in today or tomorrow, so I'll let you know how it runs afterwards. Right now it's pretty smooth, but falls flat at WOT and stumbles in low RPM at part throttle due to me not having the MIL on yet.
How are you setting up the MILs? More info please. :)
 
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