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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be painting my '82 GT this summer. I am pretty new to painting. I was just at Sams Club and they had a one-time-only special on a DVAP (Devilbiss) 43 piece spray gun kit. The part number on the box and owner's manual is SGK10. The kit includes a gravity feed gun, a touch up gun, a short air line, a viscosimeter cup, a blow gun w 3 nozzles, a spare 2.0 mm needle and tip etc. With tax it was just under $75. From what I understand Devilbiss makes a halfway decent gun. I Know Binks is what all the pros use, but I'm a newbie at this and I dont' want to spend $500 on a gun I'll probably paint two cars with. Is this a good beginners set-up? Thanks in advance, Frank

BTW in case anyone is wondering about how my one-piece floor swap is going, I cut the entire floor out of a '93 notch last summer with a spot-weld cutter. It fit out through the windshield opening. I still have to cut out the floor in the '82 and weld the new one in. I'll post my results when the weather warms up and I graduate from Grad School.
 

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The only thing that strikes me odd is the very large tip. that 2.0mm piece will be hosing the paint on. Great for primers and thicker paint but it's a bit large for spraying metallic basecoats for my liking. I like to see a 1.4 or 1.6, it's fairly easy to adapt a spraying style with either of those.

Not to say that that gun won't work well for you, it depends on what you want to do with it and I'm sure you can develop a decent feel for it. Just make sure to practice first.

Also that viscocity cup, you won't need it. Mix the paint in the proper ratios and it's good to go. It's an old tech way of doing things that really doesn't get used.

So it may be workable for you, just may not be ideal for all finishes.

BTW, I know a bunch of painters and can honestly say I don't know anyone spraying with a Binks gun. I know a bunch of guys like the Devilbiss GTI HVLP's and a few Satas and Sharpes. I don't exactly know why Binks stuff fell out of favour, but it seems to have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi TC,

Thanks again for the help. the 2.0mm tip is an extra. The one on the gun is smaller let me check the box. Ok the owners manual states that the nozzle on the gravity-feed sprayer is 1.4mm but it doesn't specify what is on the touch-up gun. I would assume they are both the same. The 2.0mm like you said, is for spraying thicker paints, like latex house paint etc. It comes with a matching needle that you have to change too. I paint houses with a brush and roller, but who knows, maybe I'll try this some time.
I guess my info is a little out of date. Binks guns WERE the shiznit. I guess they lost their market edge. My brother uses a Binks gun, but he works in a sunroof shop and uses it to spray glue on headliners. I suppose that at least says a little about the durability of the old Binks he uses. Its anchient and still sprays nasty glue just fine.
I'm glad you think that this setup will work for me. I was worried about the price. $75 seemed too good to be any good. The old "you get what you pay for" logic was giving me doubts. However I know Sams Club sometimes has some incredible deals. I hope this kit is one of them.
 

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Okay, gotcha now. I definitely think it's workable. The high end guns are great but for a hobbyist it's often overkill. DeVilbiss makes decent equipment so plan on playing with it first before tackling your first spray job. Get a feel for it, learn the adjustmenst and see how it works. For the price, I doubt it's an HVLP gun (high volume, low pressure) which is good. You can get away with less compressor and I like them better myself. Old school LOL!

Try it out, you may be surprised on how well it does. If it doesn't perform as planned, you can then swap the tip out and paint the house. :D

Probably 12-13 years ago I bought a cheap ass $50 siphon feed gun. No name brand, bargain basement and I've painted 4-5 cars with that gun in the early years and it did the trick just fine. Actually I was too broke to afford to pay anyone so I bought some equipment, $100 worth of black PPG single stage acrylic enamel and squirted my high school ride. It still looks good today, I still have that car sitting in storage.

On the others side of the coin I've played with some highend gusn before and have been less than impressed with them. I bet I played with 10 different guns in trade school alone, not including what I've used out in the real world.
 

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1.4 mm is good for bases and clears, but I am not sure about primers.

Check out www.toolparadise.com for good prices on paint guns.

You can get a really nice finishline 3 for around a hundred bucks.

There may not be anything wrong with the gun you mentioned, but for $75 and all the rest of the stuff, I gotta question it's quality.
 

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Yup, for primer use I'd stuff the 2.0 in the gun, especially if it's a high solids type product.

Either way, that gun would do just fine as a primer dedicated gun if it won't put down a nice topcoat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
TC89LX said:
Probably 12-13 years ago I bought a cheap ass $50 siphon feed gun. No name brand, bargain basement and I've painted 4-5 cars with that gun in the early years and it did the trick just fine. Actually I was too broke to afford to pay anyone so I bought some equipment, $100 worth of black PPG single stage acrylic enamel and squirted my high school ride. It still looks good today, I still have that car sitting in storage.

I hear that. I'm going to have to shoot the car in my driveway and I'm not aiming for a show quality paint job. I just want the car to look halfway decent and I don't have a lot of money to spend on it as a broke-ass graduate student. I will probably be using the same paint as you did as well. My '82 GT is black and so is my buddy's '82 notch. Hopefully my baragain-basement gun will work out like your's did. (it's not an HVLP) Otherwise I will probably spring for that nice HVLP Devilbiss Ludicrous Speed was talking about. Awesome site by the way, thanks. It went right into my bookmarks.

One last thing I found out.

DeVilbiss and Binks are registered trademarks of Illinois Tool Works

I guess that explains what happened to Binks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmmm, I took the thing out of the box and played with it. Really nice polished aluminum construction and the tip is made out of real brass, not pot metal like the cheapie guns my friends have. It really looks like quality merchandise. The only thing that scares me is the super cheap price and the ominous "made in China" stamped on the side of the stamped metal trigger. I'll report back sometime this summer, hopefully with a nice shiney black paint job on my GT.

On another note, I have a Craftsman 30 gallon 5hp compressor. I know I would probably be better off with a HVLP gun like the one Ludicrous Speed was talking about, but I remember my dad painting the fender and door he put on our '69 Dart back around 1980. He had a cheapie gun and a much smaller compressor, both of which he loaned to some buddy and never got back. They did a good job. (or at least I thought so, I was a little kid and very proud of my daddy) I remember he seemed quite pleased with the results and also that he practiced on the mashed up parts first. I remember that because I wondered why daddy was painting the smashed old parts and not the ones on the car.
 

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If I were you, and you could afford it, I would seriously think about using a basecoat/clearcoat paint. Yeah, it is an extra step, but in my opinion, it is easier. You can put the color on dryer, and just concentrate on getting coverage. Then you get your gloss with the clear. If the clear runs, you don't have a problem sanding it, unless you sand through. If you get a run in color, there is a better chance of it showing as you sand through the layers of color.

It is up to you, and good luck!
 

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Yeah, the prices on base/clear aren't too far off from a good quality single stage paint these days. Especially with black, you'll get better colour retention over time from fading with a base/clear set-up. Also "mistakes" are easier to fix.

We use HVLP's exclusively at work but when you start getting into them you really have to watch your compressor capacity and line size. With the compressor you have now I doubt it'd run an HVLP efficiently enough to do a complete, you'd be waiting for it more than you'd like to be. We use a monster 2 stage compressor at work and it couldn't supply enough air volume at first when we did the change over to HVLP's. A line upgrade from 1/4" to 3/8" helped it out and it hasn't been a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks again for the tips guys. I don't know very much about painting cars. I smacked up my 81 regal when I was a teen and repainted the junkyard header panel on the floor of my bedroom with spray lacquer. It came out quite nice actually, the color match was damn close considering I was using off the shelf spray bombs. I had all the windows open and I papered the carpet well enough that I didn't ruin it but my folks were totally pissed off anyway.

I had always thought that base/clear was HARDER to do than single stage. Not from what anyone told me but just making the false assumption that since bodyshops charged more for such a paint job it must be harder. Also the fact that you had to paint in two stages. I also wondered how the heck you could tell how well you were laying down CLEAR paint. I mean, its CLEAR after all, how do you see it? I guess just from the "wet look" From what you guys are saying base/clear seems to be the way to go. I am trying to pinch pennies but I know about being penny wise and pound foolish. (exactly why the price of the guns I bought scared me) The way I see it, even a decent Maaco paint job is going to cost like $500 so if I can do it myself with a $75 gun kit and $200 worth of materials I'm still ahead of the game and I learn a new skill to boot. I'm thinking maybe I'll try to talk my buddy into shooting HIS car first LOL. That way I get more practice. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh, and I do have 3/8 line, like 200 feet of it, for running my air tools. I even have a 50' half inch line with 1/4" industrial fittings. That sucker has like NO pressure drop. The DVAP kit came with a little coiled yellow 1/4" line. I figured I'd use it for a leader and attach it to my 1/2" hose. Regardless, I figure I'll have to take a break now and again for the compressor to pump up. What you are saying is that HVLP will exacerbate this problem and I am better off with a more conventional gun. Gotcha. Thanks.
 

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frankiesaysrelax said:
Oh, and I do have 3/8 line, like 200 feet of it, for running my air tools. I even have a 50' half inch line with 1/4" industrial fittings.
Belive it or not the fittinsg themselves play a huge role, large diameter line connected to 1/4" fittings kinda defeats the purpose of the bigger line. It won't be an issue for you anyways but it's good that you have the bigger line.

Throw that coiled hose out, it's nothing but a pain with it bouncing and pulling at the gun itself while spraying. Much harder to control it's positioning compared to a single straight line. I'd say put on a regulator and fitting onto the gun and connect the line directly. Full line pressure to the gun and regulate down from there. Less clutter the better.

Base clear is almost rediculously easy to spray. It costs more to do as it's more money for 2 parts compared to a single part and there is more labour invloved actually sparying it. More trips around the car basically. If you ever want to do a metallic finish, base/clear is far superior. The base coat will dry quickly and flash off to a dulled finish. This gives you plenty of opportunity to get good coverage in ALL areas without worrying too much about piling it on and runs. Try to get it on smooth though, it's texture can definitely affect the clear laying out. When you put on the clear, you'll know where you've sprayed and haven't yet. On most colours it's obvious. You get a clear run, a quick sand and polish and you're done. Do the run in a single stage and you can get discolouration and still be able to see where it used to be.

Last tip, get a good dryer/water separator in your air line if you don't have one already. Nothing worse than a shot of water in a new finsh. Don't ask me how I know LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I hate having to use the small fittings on the nice big line but 1/4" industrial is like an industry standard or something. The big line really does make a huge difference, even with the small fittings. I discovered this when I was running 130' of 3/8 line and my impact wrench didn't sound right and had like no torque. I put a gauge one it and found out that I was losing like 30 or so PSI because of the long line. IE 90 PSI at reglator but only like 50 or 60 at the end of the line. That was when I got the monster line. It cut my pressure drop in half, even with the smaller fittings.

Thanks for the tip on the coiled hose. I won't even mess with it. Also, you say to put a regulator right on the gun. I didn't think of that. I was just going to use the built-in regulator on my compressor. I'll have to get another regulator now. I was planning on getting a water separator, but I was unsure where to mount it. I know most people mount it right on the compressor, but I thought I remember hearing that it was best to mount it near the gun.

Based on your advice I'm definitely going to go the base/clear route. I'll take ridiculously easy over less expensive any day of the week.
 

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Now try that line with some 3/8" ID fittings. Good stuff! But overkill in most cases.

You don't need anything to elaborate at the gun for a regulator. A simple guage and knob style will do the trick, shouldn't be too much.

A water separator would be ideal downstream from the compressor. I'd say connect enough line to get around the car to it and call it a day. Drain the compressor as well and remove/bypass any inline oilers if you have them. You can also get disposable filter/separators that can go on the gun as well but I find things start to get a bit bulky with them. If you don't have total faith in the line air quality it's a good cheap idea.

Lastly, personal safety gear. Take care of yourself. Pick up a cheap disposable paint suit from a lcoal supplier and a pair of gloves, it protects you and keeps dirt from you ending up in the job. Ideally an air-fed mask is preferred but a good quality respirator mask can also work for limited exposure. These paints have some nasty stuff in them, suit up and keep safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I hear you on the safety gear. From what I understand auto paint is extremely toxic and carcinogenic and not at all what you want in your lungs or on your skin. Fortunately I have a really good auto-body supply shop nearby, Goodfellows. They mostly sell to the trade on account, but they do have a retail counter and are very knowlegeable and friendly. They stock every kind of plastic trim clip known to man and about every color of paint under the sun. I'll probably pickup a mask and suit from them when I buy paint and seam sealer. Probably get a paint quality water separator from them as well. I don't have to worry about oil in the lines because I oil my air tools manually after each use and don't use an inline oiler. Now I need some warmer weather and to get a ton of prep work done. The original GT hood has two rust holes but I think I can fiberglass it from behind. I also have a bent rocker channel to straighten (hopefully my porta-power will take it out). Plus a heck of a lot of sanding to do. I don't know if I should primer the whole car or just wherever I do body work or have bare metal. Thanks for all the help.
 

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what about this paint?
Not on your life.

The amount of time I put into prepping a car is not worth using cheap paint. Esp acrylic enamel!

Stick with a name brand and you won't regret it.
 
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