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That PhotoBucket scam sure screwed up a bunch of threads. It made me so mad I just deleted my account to get my pics out of their system. It was no easy task to get past the popups just to delete my account with them.
Yes me too, they are on my black list of companies I never do business with again. As I get time to hunt my old forum picture postings, I'll delete my photos and account with PhotoBucket.
 

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Hey guys, I am strongly considering building something similar for my 94 bondurant car. I am already running griggs adjustable control arms with matching k so I am part of the way there. How did you design the mounting locations for the shock and the upper control arm? We're the dropped spindles from racecraft a must to get the car down low or could sn95 spindles be used? The big motivator for me is to get 315s to fit on the front. Would you guys be willing to share some of your design data/methodology? I have tons of questions on this. I think with a little leg work and parts sourcing I could make something very similar to ed's setup for about half the cost of a Griggs conversion!
 

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I wonder if that set up you built would work on converting my AJE to SLA in my 73 Mach 1. I'm hoping to do a 6.2 swap and, and I want to delete the towers without starting all over. I've already got a set of Factory Five upper ball joint adapters sitting in a box, waiting to be used.
 

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Hey guys, I am strongly considering building something similar for my 94 bondurant car. I am already running griggs adjustable control arms with matching k so I am part of the way there. How did you design the mounting locations for the shock and the upper control arm? We're the dropped spindles from racecraft a must to get the car down low or could sn95 spindles be used?
The setup that 2000mcr built (which I posted pics of) appears to use SN95 spindles. The "base model" Griggs SLA uses SN95 spindles (the higher end version uses their spindles).

The big motivator for me is to get 315s to fit on the front. Would you guys be willing to share some of your design data/methodology? I have tons of questions on this. I think with a little leg work and parts sourcing I could make something very similar to ed's setup for about half the cost of a Griggs conversion!
Doesn't look like edhunter has logged in here for about a year and a half, but you might try shooting him a PM. He is still active on corner-carvers.com if you're a member over there.

I wonder if that set up you built would work on converting my AJE to SLA in my 73 Mach 1. I'm hoping to do a 6.2 swap and, and I want to delete the towers without starting all over. I've already got a set of Factory Five upper ball joint adapters sitting in a box, waiting to be used.
With enough fabrication skill I'm sure it could be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Still have no idea if MM is ever going to do a SLA for the Fox4 chassis but probably not at this point.
 

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But does anyone have any drawings and dimensions I can work off of.
My suggestion is to start initially with creating the box you see Ed Hunter created. The C channel type that sandwiches the frame rail and locates off the K member bolts. Since we are largely limited on space and the SLA is a small package, your track width is going to determine what you do with the UCA and shock placement.

When I decide to tackle this, because why not.. my plan is to start by creating that C channel form to provide a mounting/welding locating for the upper shock mount and UCA. Mount the C channel section on the car (with no brackets of course).

From there, take your choice of LCA's and create a gusseted section in the upper A portion near the ball joint. Weld a shock mount to that. Gusset the LCA. Then mount your adapter for the spindle and mock the suspension up. Every car is different and your choice of track width, offset arms, and suspension desires will determine largely what you want to do.

You won't have much choice in regards to where the lower heim joint of the shock mounts on the LCA. That's relatively static in terms of the space we have. Once everything is mocked up, you can begin to look at ride height, shock length, and suspension dynamics to properly build it to match your car.
 

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People have put together simple simple systems by themselves, with stuff from other cars or using stock car pieces.

Bill Mitchell had a kit in the early 2000s, for one. I think it was used in racing.[he died recently.]



It seems like the current kits are trying to go for the highest cost possible.

That PhotoBucket scam sure screwed up a bunch of threads. It made me so mad I just deleted my account to get my pics out of their system. It was no easy task to get past the popups just to delete my account with them.
Yes me too, they are on my black list of companies I never do business with again. As I get time to hunt my old forum picture postings, I'll delete my photos and account with PhotoBucket.
Don't be too quick to delete your folders. There are browser add-ons that link the photos back up. I can see all the pictures on page 1.

Now I'm doing research and the photos I needed were in folders deleted from peoples PB pages.

It is amazing how many people just assumed they'd have free space forever. Never used it myself.
 

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I've already got a set of Factory Five upper ball joint adapters sitting in a box, waiting to be used.
The Factory Five adapters may give you excessive kingpin inclination angle (front view angle line between the ball joints and verticle line through center of tire). The ball joint is mounted inboard (towards the frame) of the spindle mounting ears. If you look at the others posted here, the Griggs mount or the Whitby mount, they are mounted to the back of the spindle ear which gives a smaller angle.
 

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Thanks for bringing this back to life you guys. I am seriously considering doing this THIS year. I am worried a little about getting the geometry right. I would hate to spend a bunch of time and money and end up with a turd drives bad and won't turn in, or worse is dangerous. Basically I think I am going to order everything from Griggs to use the SN95 spindle, except use the racecraft drop spindle since it is designed as a direct replacement for the SN95 piece. Any thoughts?
 

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If you move the upper ball joint behind the strut ears, then you are trading off SAI for increased caster trail. Too much caster trail is much worse than too much SAI.

In addition, as you reduce SAI, your wheel offset needs to change to have reasonable scrub radius. You must take this into account when designing an SLA with an existing spindle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
People have put together simple simple systems by themselves, with stuff from other cars or using stock car pieces.

Bill Mitchell had a kit in the early 2000s, for one. I think it was used in racing.[he died recently.]



It seems like the current kits are trying to go for the highest cost possible.





Don't be too quick to delete your folders. There are browser add-ons that link the photos back up. I can see all the pictures on page 1.

Now I'm doing research and the photos I needed were in folders deleted from peoples PB pages.

It is amazing how many people just assumed they'd have free space forever. Never used it myself.
I assumed I'd have free space forever since I used them since the early 2000s and other companies from the same era (google for one) has kept that promise. I've had gmail since inception and tons of files and stuff backed up there in folders.

The way PB did it though... is the issue. They just up and held everyone's pics hostage basically and you pay them $100 to "get your links back". That's just shady AF.

I deleted all my accounts after I went through them and backed up anything I needed. Created a new account for hosting on Cubeupload which has 0 ads with ublock turned on and is fast and just WORKS. Or I upload direct to the forums now usually.
 
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If you move the upper ball joint behind the strut ears, then you are trading off SAI for increased caster trail. Too much caster trail is much worse than too much SAI.

In addition, as you reduce SAI, your wheel offset needs to change to have reasonable scrub radius. You must take this into account when designing an SLA with an existing spindle.
Can you tell me if I am understanding you correctly?

Reference the picture linked of a griggs setup using a modified SN95 spindle (take space out of link):

http

://image.mustangandfords.com/f/26400551+w650+h650+cr1+st0/m5lp_0505_11_%2Bgriggs_road_racing_mustang%2Bsn_95_spindle.jpg

Are you saying that because the adapter that bolts to the top of the spindle to facilitate mounting of the upper ball joint is aft of the mounting ear, the the SAI is reduced and caster is increased? And as SAI is reduced (and the intersection of SAI and the pavement moved inboard) one must increase offset in order to move the wheel/tire inboard a comparable amount?

Can't that be adjusted out by adjusting the upper and lower control arms?

-Sean
 

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Yes to your first and second questions.

The third is more complicated.

Caster can of course be adjusted by moving the the control arm mounts on the chassis. However as caster is changed by doing this, caster trail is also changed at the same time. For a given spindle (spindle plus upper and lower ball joint studs), there is a fixed relationship between the caster angle and caster trail. To change these two things independent of each other you would need to be able to move the ball joint stud on the spindle fore or aft.

The exact same relationship also applies to camber, scrub radius and lateral ball joint stud position on the spindle.
 

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I'm piecing together a SLA system on a foxbody as we speak and im going to start posting pics of the build on my Instagram account. bobbyhoranracing
im doing all the design work on my design software at work so hopefully i can get it right the first time. im staring with a MM K-Member and Coretex spindles and im planning on building everything else myself so that i can change some of the things i don't like about the other kits out there.
 

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If you look for Matt Farah's (The Smoking Tire) Mustang on YouTube, his foxbody has the full MM kit. It does really well in comparison to a GT3 and some other cars. Unless you're building an all-out track car, the MM strut is probably going to be good enough for 99% out there.
 
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