Joined
·
10,077 Posts
Wow man you should sell those... I'd imagine you'd make a killing... Looks amazing.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
Strange. When I went looking the A47 stuff was less expensive than Griggs.The A47 stuff is like bat#### crazy expensive and Griggs isn't much better.
You did a really great job with that! Shame the car got bent but it sounds like it did the job you designed it for.Fully dressed... Widebody fox.
Not sure which price list you are looking at, but Griggs' SN 95 SLA kit starts just under $7,000 (yes it includes coil overs for the rear).I understand you get what you pay for, I am not trying to set the world on fire so I probably should just get the MM front end and call it a day, however I do like how the SLA works, I do want to try to road race this car eventually when I get it setup for it and the only two real options I am seeing are Griggs and Agent 47. Griggs is pricey and Agent 47 seems like double that. I know you're paying for R&D, years of experience etc... but still. I'm not trying to cheap out and buy some crap like a Granetelli product or whatever but is there a "MM like" option as far as price and a good build quality for SLA?
I know I'll probably never need it but I've decided to do this car right the first time and I don't want to do it twice.
Thanks Bryan for the link, I hadn't looked at that kit in a few years.Not sure which price list you are looking at, but Griggs' SN 95 SLA kit starts just under $7,000 (yes it includes coil overs for the rear).
AGENT 47's SLA (has proven faster lap times by Ernesto Roco) retails for under $4400 SN95 Suspension
I run mine on the street without issues.Thanks Bryan for the link, I hadn't looked at that kit in a few years.
Do those come with strong enough bushings and ball joints for typical street abuse? Will they last 50-100k miles before needing rebuilt etc?
Thanks. That's great for the BJ's, but I think I'll stay away from steel CA bushings for my Lincoln. I had them as OEM in my first two 86 and 85 Crown Vics, police models. Those cars did feel fine with them, but I'd still avoid that for now.I run mine on the street without issues.
The ball joints are OEM stuff, you can get them at a parts store. Should be good for 100k granny driving. YMMV like anything else.
The "bushings" are metal and come with grease fittings. Keep them greased and you'll keep them happy for a long time. I would be interested to hear if A47 has ever needed to replace them from wearing out though.
MANY people have done this....If one had the knowledge they could probably fab one up themselves. Short of that though I think those are your only two options. I'm kind of surprised I've never seen anyone try to make their own; I've seen plenty of guys build their own front ends on prerunners. That's prob apples to oranges really but point is it shouldn't be impossible.
Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
Okay. Care to elaborate??MANY people have done this....
I know this is an old thread but where did you get the prices? Agent 47 has always been alot less expensive than Griggs. I bought mine years ago for 2999.99 plus 500.00 more for the penske shocks. It was almost 1/2 what Griggs wanted. They may be 4400.00 now which is still thousands cheaper than Griggs.Yeah I know the differences and that MM doesn't do SLA, just trying to justify the cost to myself for a SLA setup. The A47 stuff is like bat#### crazy expensive and Griggs isn't much better. Still... its a 1 time thing...
Out of curiosity, can you elaborate on the shock eyelet?I know this is an old thread but where did you get the prices? Agent 47 has always been alot less expensive than Griggs. I bought mine years ago for 2999.99 plus 500.00 more for the penske shocks. It was almost 1/2 what Griggs wanted. They may be 4400.00 now which is still thousands cheaper than Griggs.
The only part i had to change was the shock eyelet. I have driven mine on the street for about 6 years and about 30,000 miles.
swivel eyelet bearing that a bolt goes through to mount the shock. sometimes they collect too much dirt/dust and dont move as freely as they should. inexpensive part to replaceOut of curiosity, can you elaborate on the shock eyelet?
Out of curiosity, can you elaborate on the shock eyelet?
Close 02 roush stage 3, actually dirt gets in them and causes them to wear. Starts to rattle after a while. They don't cost much.swivel eyelet bearing that a bolt goes through to mount the shock. sometimes they collect too much dirt/dust and dont move as freely as they should. inexpensive part to replace
Over the winter of 2011 I built a SLA for my American Iron racecar, a 88 foxbody. I modeled it using suspension analyzer 2.0, and built it using a MM k-member, forward offset SN95 lower arms, racecraft 2" dropped spindles, factory five spindle adapters for the upper arms, and SLC adjustable upper control arms. The new ruleset for 2012 allowed us to move our track width to 74.5", the width of the s197 chassis. I wanted this width, which meant modifying the lower arms. I cut the bushings off, welded in rod end adapters, and ran heim joints on the lower arms. I had to further modify the LCA's to accept the shock mounts, but that was easy. The only real fabrication involved building the upper control arm mounts and the upper shock mount.
Breakdown of the costs... I already had the lower control arms and the racecraft spindles, so those aren't included. I also had a set of KONI 3012 DA shocks so that cost is not shown either... I had steeda extended lower ball joints, and ran longer ball joints in the upper arms as well. I bought a new K-member so I didn't have to disassemble my car while the new setup was being built.
MM K-member $550
Rod ends x 4 $161
Misalignment spacers $32
Tube weld nuts/Lock nuts $63
Spindle Adapters - Whitby $300
Upper Control Arms $409
Lower shock mounts $15
Upper shock mounts $23
Misc Steel $90
Upper Ball Joint $90
It worked very very well..... :joy:
modified lca's....
Adjustable upper arm...
DIY UCA mount and shock mount..
Installed..
![]()
Bumping these with the failbucket picture links fixed so they're actually visible.Couple more pics...
Fully dressed... Widebody fox.
Like I said earlier... it worked extremely well. I spent more time moving things around in the software, trying to find the best location for the upper arms and shock mounts, adjusting for anti-dive, roll center migration, camber gain, etc. etc. than I did actually building the stuff.
I won my first AI race the second race weekend I had the car out after the build.
Then I wrecked it the next day trying to repeat...
Currently racing a 2005 chassis with the same pushrod engine and TKO600... and contemplating building a SLA for it! :evilgrin:
![]()
I PM'd 2000mcr (Paul) and he emailed me his pics. I don't have any details other than what's visible in the pics and what Paul had said in posts 7 & 12. I put them up on my FTP site for posterity, so here they are:2000mcr's pictures don't appear to be on failbucket anymore (just a couple of dyno graphs), and 2000mcr hasn't been active on the site since the end of March. Might respond to a PM, though, so one could see the pics of his SLA setup.
The trick is to add "~original" (without the quotation marks) after ".jpg" in the picture link. If you click to QUOTE my post, you can see what I did. I saw that trick posted somewhere else, and it seems to work about 95% of the time.Wow props for doing that. I hope failbucket goes under.