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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I just got my car back from the speed shop and I think the mechanice there is a total putz...but let's see..

Okay....After cracking my stock lower intake, I tried to replace the it myself (with another stock one), but could not complete the job. I worked on it for 3 weeks and got down to undoing the fuel lines and got stuck. At that point I had the car towed (with all the parts labeled in boxes in the trunk) to a local speed shop to have the job finished. All they had to do was undo the fuel lines and then unbolt the lower, remove it...and then put everything back together. I picked the car up yesterday. I should note that the battery had been upplugged for the 3 weeks too...

Now...when I picked up my car....it runs like crap. It spits and sputters and produces a generous amount of smoke. The shop owner claimed I have an aftermarket camshaft...b/c they retimed the engine and he said they could tell it was not a stock cam?...Secondly...the mechanic said the car would run like that b/c it had to 'relearn' how to run since the battery had been off for so long?....he said it should 'clear up' after 60 to 100 miles or so. And it runs VERY rich...read on...you will see what I mean.

I noticed that he did not route one of my vacuum lines back correctly. At least I drew out the lines on paper when I took the upper off, so I know how they were done before I took them off:D The mechanic routed the line from the charcoal canister directly to the MAP sensor. This line is suppose to go from the charcoal canister to the front of the upper plenum and then another line from the nipple on the other side of the plenum to the MAP. So basically....he skipped over the upper intake completely with this vacuum line. :mad: (the other vacuum lines are correct though as far as I can tell).

I believe this is my problem....and that by the intake missing this vacuum...it's causing my fuel pressure to go beserk and just dump gas...and that's why I am running so rich and why it took 1/2 tank of gas to go 22 miles...? :confused:

Also...at this point I checked my timing and its at 14*....but who knows if that smuck even retimed my 5.0 correctly...?

Someone please help!!!
 

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You learned my first lesson on taking your car to a mechanic. I did it once too. Since then I have done everything myself. Your car should run beautiful as soon as you start it up... computer memory or not. Since you have a speed density car (as mine was when I first got it) everything comes down to what the MAP sensor and the o2 sensors are telling the computer. I would double check that they didn't put the dist. in one tooth off. Start your car (oh, does it spit, sputter, and back fire at idle too?) loosen the dist bolt (only need to do this a little) and add timing. Turn it clockwise so the TFI (the computer part on the front of the dist) is at about a 45 degree angle to you. This should add 15 to 20 degrees of time. At this point it shoud no longer be spitting, pissing, etc. Try taking it for a quick spin, get on it and listen to the engine. If you hear any popping, banging, or other bad noises immediatly get off the throttle limp it back home and take the timing back down, because that's not your problem.

Where are you located? It sounds like it's time you find some friends in your area that can teach you the ins and outs of 5.0 maint. in your own driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Slo5oh - I am in Charlotte, NC. Thanks for the timing tips. I was going to check into that once I was certain that I intake vacuum lines were connected correctly.

Anyone have any ideas on the side effects I might have due to the 'reroute' that the mechanic did for me on that vacuum line?
 

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Just switch it back. Lots of those vacuum lines can be plugged. I plugged off all the lines that go to the smog [email protected] next to the header on the passenger side, it still passes out the tail pipes just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another thing I noticed is that I am not sure if the mechanic reconnected that metal ground that is grounded on one of the bolts at the rear of the upper plenum (perhpas he grounded it somewhere else when he reassembled?).

Either way what ever it is, it was there when I took the upper plenum off....and not it's now. I am not sure but I believe that is a ground for the fuel injection?.... I need some input here too b/c if that is the case, I am not sure what symptoms the car would have if it was not reconnected...:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I pulled the upper off tonight and ran a vacuum line from the charcoal canister to the front of the upper plenum and then ran a line from the rear of the plenum to the MAP sensor. However I broke the EGR vacuum line that connects on the rear of the upper in the process :mad:

I started the car without the EGR line connected and overall it runs better, it still puts out smoke and black soot though. If you hold your hand at the exhuast it will get very damp and have black soot spots on it in just a few seconds. But I can't tell if the moisture is gas or water.... I suspect it's gas. It's 'pop's a little too when it's at idle. I did not drive the car so I don't know how it perfroms on the road.

There are two small ports on the rear of the upper plenum for the EGR line and for the fuel pressure reg. line....does it matter which one goes onto which port? I tried the fuel pressure line on each port and it seemed to do a little better on the one farther away from the regulator...but I believe it was orginally on the port closest to the fuel pressure regulator... And both ports have vacuum regardless. In both cases where I covered the 'unused' port without the fuel line on it with my finger and could feel the vacuum sucking in. Plus when I cover the unused one...my idle does go down some too...which makes sense I guess...

Okay...I am in a real jam here and need some help....please somebody!!! I would be very grateful!! :joy:
 

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Vacuum is vacuum. Just make sure everything is routed so it's getting vacuum. and DONT EVER TAKE YOUR CAR TO A STUPID MECHANIC AGAIN! go buy the Haynes manual for your car and start doing everything yourself. You will learn... everything is trial and error. My first water pump took me 2 days to replace... now that's bad considering it's a half hour job.

Just put a vacuum cap on the intake vacuum that goes to the EGR. You don't need it to run.

Now, to the smoking problem. How did you crack the lower intake? Did it smoke before this?
 

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Make sure the MAP sensor vacuum line is own a dedicated line - no other lines to pull down vacuum and give the MAP false readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Slo5oh - I cracked lower when I was screwing the stock thermostat back down into the lower. I have a Haynes manual, but it doesn't show you how to route intake vacuum lines. I figuired I could just cap off the EGR one and be fine. Before my cracked lower, I had no engine problems...no idle problems, no smoke, nothing.

TMOSS - Currenlty the line I have going to the MAP begins at the charcoal canister and runs into the front of the upper next to the runners and then a line comes out the rear directly across from the one coming in and runs over to the MAP....are you saying that I should just cap off the line coming from the charcoal canister...thus giving the MAP a 'dedicated' vacuum line there just into the rear of the plenum? This is not how it was before...but just asking....

Thanks to all for your input...please keep the tips and info. coming!!
 

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That is exactly what I'm saying - it should have it's very own line to the intake - just like it came from the factory. If it's on lines that have vacuum devices that cause vacuum fluctuations in that line, the EEC will get false fuel delivery information.
 
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