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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been having problems getting my car to idle correctly since installing my charger (please refer to my list of mods below). It seems to run on the rich side at idle, but has a good smooth power curve all the way through when I jump on it. Usually, when the car is warmed up, it seems to want to fall on its face at idle, and it eventually stalls. Anyway I have a few questions here. Any help is greatly valued!!!


1.) Is it possible that the IAC of TPS need to be cleaned or changed in order to cure, or atleasat help my idling problem? When I clean the throttle body out, is their any specific parts to pay attention to?

2.) I have a boost retard control, however it does not seem to make any difference in the way the car runs when I fool around with it. Should I try messing around with the timing? Typically, should the timing be changed when a blower is installed? Any ideas?


I recently installed new Motorcraft plugs (stock), MSD wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc. Checked for vaccum leaks. Nothing seems to help!

As you can see, I am new to tuning 5.0 motors, and I desperatly need someone to talk to, Thanks-






1995 Cobra SVT, Paxton SN95 Charger, 6-8 lbs. boost, 40 lbs. fuel pres, Stock longblock, Motorsport X303 Cam, BBK headers, offroad H, Flowmaster cat-back, & some other goodies. :joy:
 

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More info needed

Where is your timing set at now?. Are you running any kind of chip or piggyback setup on your EEC? You should put your timing back to 10 degrees (with the spout out) and adjust timing with your boost retard. What brand boost retard are you running? Are you running an FMU..if so what calibration is it set for? You didn't mention injector size..so I assume you are using the stock injectors (24's came in the Cobra..19's in the GT) You should be running one heat range colder on your plugs and the gap should be no more than .035...generally you have to close the gap on a blower car to keep from blowing the spark out under boost but the MSD will help with this. I run mine at.026-.028. You should definately clean your IAC and TPS and ensure the TPS is set properly. (.98 - 1.0 is about where you need to be.) Idle problems can sometimes be cured by "reclocking" the mass air sensor. Basically all you do is loosen the clamps and turn the unit. I try 90 degrees at a time. Sometimes this helps.. sometimes not. The X cam may be the wrong cam for a blower car but I don't think it is the cause of your rich at idle problems. Did you change anything other than add the blower?. If it ran fine before you just need to go back over your installation and see if you missed anything. If you haven't already done it you need to remove the screen from the PCV valve hose where it goes into the back of the lower intake. Hope this helps. If you want you can e mail me at [email protected] if you have any more questions.
 

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May want to play with the fuel pressure if you have an adjustable reg. I just installed an s-trim on my 94 Cobra and had to tweak the kirban and timing to get it to run smoothly.
 

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one of the helps i can offer is for you to get rid of the motorcraft plugs. for some reason nobody has had luck running them with boost, dont know why. NGK makes some very nice plugs that work very well with blowers, i dont know the exact part number you will need, but i can recomend a number 7 heat range plug from ngk.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ulev1st: Let me give you some more info on what is going on under my hood. As for the timing, we advanced it but not as far as 10*. The car has the stock chip. I do have an ajustable FPR, and like I said the fuel pressure is around 37psi at idle and 40psi at WOT. As far as I know, the injectors are the stock 24's. I have never had them out. As for the plugs, they are Motorsport AWS32C's (stock plugs), gapped around .032. One thing that I did not do is mess with the PCV valve. You were saying that their is a screen in their that should be removed? I have the throttle body off of the car right now as I am about to clean and test the IAC and TPS. Anyway, this is were Im at with this puzzle right now. I intend on picking up some cooler plugs tommorrow morning. If I go with Autolites, can anyone give me the part # of the next colder plug from stock. Thanks to all for your help so far, and I think that we are headed in the right direction!


:D
 

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I assume you have a FMU on the car. Do you have a restrictor and check valve between it and it's boost source? I had the same problem, and it turned out my FMU was raising FP at cruise RPMs. Pull a couple of plugs and check them. Solid black plugs will give you an indication of the problem.
 

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WHoa--I dont recommend NEVER lites--(autolites) I was a tech for 5 years and everyone including myself felt they caused idle problems. Did you set the fp correctly---idle with vacuum line off---I believe the proper setting doing it that way is 43 psi. I have mine a little higher like 45. Then you plug it in and at idle will be at about 34 or so. I always recommend making sure all your basics are covered before you look at electronics. I think you are on the right track by looking at tune components. Do you have a check engine light on??? You really should if the car is stalling at idle.
 

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ulev1st, why do recommend to remove the screen in the intake??? Have read that it needs to be in??????
 
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