Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been having problems getting my car to idle correctly since installing my charger (please refer to my list of mods below). It seems to run on the rich side at idle, but has a good smooth power curve all the way through when I jump on it. Usually, when the car is warmed up, it seems to want to fall on its face at idle, and it eventually stalls. Anyway I have a few questions here. Any help is greatly valued!!!


1.) Is it possible that the IAC of TPS need to be cleaned or changed in order to cure, or atleasat help my idling problem? When I clean the throttle body out, is their any specific parts to pay attention to?

2.) I have a boost retard control, however it does not seem to make any difference in the way the car runs when I fool around with it. Should I try messing around with the timing? Typically, should the timing be changed when a blower is installed? Any ideas?


I recently installed new Motorcraft plugs (stock), MSD wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc. Checked for vaccum leaks. Nothing seems to help!

As you can see, I am new to tuning 5.0 motors, and I desperatly need someone to talk to, Thanks-






1995 Cobra SVT, Paxton SN93 charger w/6-8 lbs boost, 40 lbs of fuel pressure, Stock long block, Motorsport X303 cam, BBK headers, offroad H, Flowmaster catback, 3:55 gears, BBK sub frame connectors, etc. Trying to get this thing dialed!! No track times yet- ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,168 Posts
tuning the 94/95 5.0 mustangs can be the biggest headache of all the 5.0 mustangs...

try turning up the idle, to do that, you'll need a custom chip burned. that should actually help most of your problems, and get you more power in the end.

i think that x303 cam likes to idle in the 900rpm range. try it..

you might also want to try different plugs, i'm not sure which ones, but the guys in the supercharger forum should be able to tell you which plugs to run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yea, I have sort of been thinkin that a chip may help this problem. It just seems to run so good other than the fact that it will not idle. Any recomendations on who to call for a custom chip??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
I don't suppose this could be a case for fords Idle-Fix plate? Someone here should know about it - Goes between the Intake and the Throttle body, allows you to fine tune Idle air going into the motor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
Im guessing u have guages, so u know whats going on boost and fuel presure wise... 6-8 lbs u will first need the timing bumped down to 10* even with the BTM.
Plugs should be 1 heat range colder then stock... and gapped much tighter then stock.. atleast a .035 gap to prevent blow out.. I run autolite 24's gapped at .032 with good results.
Im guessing u have some sort of inline fuel pump, or a higher flowing intank pump, then stock... and an FMU with the approprite disk. TPS u can check out with a multimeter, it should be at .98idle /5.0 volts Wide open throttle or pretty close to that.
IAC going, or gone bad will cuase idle problems... SO will that X303 cam.. Our computers are picky. The idle air plate might be an idea... so would drilling a tiny hole in the throttle body butterfly, and unplugging the IAC, and adjusting the idle by the idle set screw ontop of the throttle body, by the IAC... But first things first, i would scan for codes, get the colder plugs, gap them down to .035.. set that timing back to stock 10 degrees.. and try adjusting the idle fuel presure down to around 35psi or so... u dont need all that fuel at idle.. Just make sure u have enough at WOT. and last but not least, u really can benifit from a tune.. specially with diferent cam.. or whatever else uve done to the car. I know when i bolted my vortech blower on my 120K stock 94GT it ran and worked PERFECT, did have some slight pining, but i fixed that with a larger fuel pump. still runs and works awsome, and makes great power.. im seeing 8-9lbs of boost. There is alot to be had with a good tune, they optimize the Air fuel ratio all through the RPMS.. But get it running right before u take it to get tuned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Autofantasy said:
I don't suppose this could be a case for fords Idle-Fix plate? Someone here should know about it - Goes between the Intake and the Throttle body, allows you to fine tune Idle air going into the motor?
I had to use one of these to get mine to idle until I installed a new MAF, cured the problem completely! Need the plate, They are 20 bucks new, I'll send it to you for 10.00, don't need it anymore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,591 Posts
Re: Installed a blower, here are the problems...

CamedCobraMike said:


1995 Cobra SVT, Paxton SN93 charger w/6-8 lbs boost, 40 lbs of fuel pressure, Stock long block, Motorsport X303 cam, BBK headers, offroad H, Flowmaster catback, 3:55 gears, BBK sub frame connectors, etc. Trying to get this thing dialed!! No track times yet- ;)
Get a CD ignition box !!! You will need it with that blower and it will help smooth out your idle..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
poostang said:
I know when i bolted my vortech blower on my 120K stock 94GT it ran and worked PERFECT, did have some slight pining, but i fixed that with a larger fuel pump.
Funny - My '94 GT is also about 120K and Im also planning on a Vortech... The trouble is - I have a detonation issue even now (Very Slight - But I think I'm already backed off to 10 Deg Initial). - I have a 190LPH pump. The weird thing is how much slower my car is when its hot - Its simply night and day. The tracks not open yet - but when it does I intend to trailer the car there and push it though the lanes just to see what the car runs cold - I can be pretty objective and there is just no doubt in my mind the car is significantly slower when its hot. - Like - Wont even break the tires loose from a standing start some times - When its cold you can roll it on at 25 and have traction issues. The Intake gets tremendously hot - This whole mess scares me a lot - the idea of forced induction mixed with this heat soak thing, that is. Plus, St.louis summers are absurdly Hot/Humid (Check an Almanac - We make Florida look pretty comfortable). The Trouble is - Im broke as a joke - I can't exactly afford a Inter/After cooler. How much boost could I get away with running in the summer - if anyone knows?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
yep, i had those same problems before the blower...
i still feel more power on a cold nite, when the motor is ice cold.. the first 2 minutes or so, the car has sooo much more power.. then when it warms up, and goes into closed loop.. it gets alittle slower. But what i did, and what i would recomend is start with the basics. in this order....

First, get a code scanner.. they save time and guess work.
They are about $20 bucks i think, and very easy to use. It wil tell u of any problems, that the car might have, as far as sensors bad or anything like that. After u check that, then do a complete tune up, like...timing, make sure u are reading it properly, and the balancer is not whobbling, and is ok... Once u have the timing set at around 10-12degrees. Then go to the MAF, clean the tiny wire elements inside the maf good, with electronics cleaner, or i use brake cleaner, and it works good..
Then make sure the air filter is clean. I would also do a cap/rotor/plugs/wires change, if it hasnt be done recently
and also pour some injector cleaner through it..
Its a good idea to change out the O2 sensors if the car hasnt had them changed yet.. specailly with 120k.
After that, i would change the fuel filter, after 120k miles it needs a new one...And If problems still persist, posible the IAC needs cleaned... So take the throttle body off and clean it out good, and clean out the IAC sensor on the throttle body.
The things i noticed that made the most improvement in helping my car run better were, new O2's and a new fuel filter.. and the timing. But to be safe , and get it right, do everything here, unless it has been done recently.. U might spend over 100 bucks, but it will be WELL worth it , to have the car running perfectly again..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
as far as boost in the hot summer... im not sure. im running 8lbs and weve had a couple hot days, since ive had my blower on. not only hot, but VERY humid. intercooled is really the best way to go. ATI/Procharger makes the intercooled kits... i dont think they are much more then a Vortech. If ur on a budget, check out the classified section, here on corral.. thats where i picked up my used blower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,790 Posts
CamedCobraMike said:
Any recomendations on who to call for a custom chip??
Here you go, you won't find anybody more reasonable in temrs of price, and they are EXCELLENT at what they do. They do all the tuning for everyone I know. I wouldn't take my car anywhere else.
http://www.kauffmanmotorsports.com

Call and ask for Dave, tell him Paul Riva AKA KILLERCANARY said to call him. You won't be sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Guys: Going to lay into this car tommorrow morning. I have a few things in mind based on what what Im hearing. I may just invest in a chip in the near future. Thanks to all and Rodger Wilcox-;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
Re: Installed a blower, here are the problems...

CamedCobraMike said:

2.) I have a boost retard control, however it does not seem to make any difference in the way the car runs when I fool around with it. Should I try messing around with the timing? Typically, should the timing be changed when a blower is installed? Any ideas?


the boost retard does nothing unless you are making boost. set you base timing(spout out) at 10-12 degrees (like poostang said) and do not turn you retard module below 1-1.5 untill you get it on of dyno or are experienced with spark plug reading/boost retard/detonation listening/base fuel pressure/FMU tuning. your retard module pulls timing in the amount you have the knob set to per pound of boost. example: you have you knob set to "1". you make 8lbs of boost and your base timing is 10 degrees and total timing is 26 degrees then you alterated total timing would be 18 degrees, right about where you would want it with 93 octane gas and the sufficent amount of fuel delivery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
poostang said:
yep, i had those same problems before the blower...
i still feel more power on a cold nite, when the motor is ice cold.. the first 2 minutes or so, the car has sooo much more power.. then when it warms up, and goes into closed loop..
I'm afraid I have already tried all of those except the fuel filter and O2 Sensors... The fuel filter never really came to mind but I think Ill do that soon. O2s are just so expesive - I'm not sure I can justify replaceing them unless I have good reason to belive they are bad. - If I didn't know better I would say that my car does Idle rich (Just based on the smell.)
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top