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It turns left and right, I’d call that functional, but if you mean do the buttons work, no, not sure what I’d have them do anyways...
What I meant was do they control cruise control, Bluetooth, volume etc. If they did that would be absolutely fantastic.
Looks like a jet inside that fox. Great job 👍
 

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Y
i have dlg1 and im getting a p0150 bank 2 and a p2197 banks 2 with an e9 on the gauge that will go away once the car is running. car idles great but when I drive the car and stop at a light it doesn't want to idle anymore cuts off and its hard to get started. its really starting to frustrate me.
yes E9 is low voltage I had that happen on my car my alternator wasn’t charging
 

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Fellow Pro-M EFI users,

I have good news to report. I just completed emissions testing today and my car passed with without a problem. I attached the results to this discussion. My car puts out less than ½ the allowable emissions in NOx, CO, and hydrocarbons. My engine (I’m the original owner of this 1991 LX 5.0L notchback) is a 274,000 mile short block with original stock cam, 1.72 Cobra roller rockers, GT-40 intake, aluminum GT-40 Y303 heads, Pro-M 75mm Bullet MAF meter and stock 1991 5.0L exhaust manifolds. I’m also using the Zeitronix ZT4 Wide Band controller kit (the Innovate DLG-1 was giving me problems so I trashed it) and Pro-M (Lucas) 24lb fuel injectors. My fuel injector “low flow rate” is 28.5 in the Pro-M EFI software (the old version, not the new Insight version).

The Arizona emissions test is similar to the California emissions test for 1991 Mustangs except for the visual inspection. In AZ, the smog testers just run the car on the dyno rollers through all the gears, at road test speeds. They don’t check for the presence of EGR, TAB and TAD solenoids and the emissions crossover tube at the back of the heads. All they care about is that your car passes the dyno roller test. If it can pass without all of the smog equipment, that’s cool. If the car fails the test (with or without the smog equipment present) the car owner can’t register the car until it passes the dyno roller test anyway so the visual test doesn’t really matter in AZ. The state of CA has a visual test AND a dyno roller test. I would imagine the Pro-M EFI “Coil on Plug” engine management system would fail the visual test simply because of the lack of a conventional distributor and the presence of 8 individual coils. I would also like to say the Zeitronix ZT4 is a much simpler install than the Innovate WB controllers. To put it in perspective, the innovate WB controller instruction manual is 13 pages while the Zeitronix ZT4 is just 2 pages! I can’t bash the Innovate DLG-1 kit, however, because I’m sure it is working for other people, it just didn’t work for me.

In closing, I’d like to give thanks to Pro-M Racing for making a simple to use engine management system, Mike Plummer, John Janek, Franky P and other Corral members for sharing information about the Pro-M EFI system. You guys really made it easier than it could have been. BTW, you can best believe I have saved the tune I passed emissions with and will copy that tune to a different file name and experiment with the copy to see if I can improve test results. As the Pro-M instructions say, the “Pro-M EFI engine management system will allow you to do whatever you could imagine to your engine, and control all of it with easy to understand parameters in a single processor. You do not need a spark box, or boost timing control, or nitrous controls, or anything else for that matter. It’s all here in one system”…Thanks for listening to my rant 😊.

02242020 MustangLX5_0emissionstest.JPG
20190409_100102.jpg
 

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Jim that's very good news, happy to hear everything continues to work out great for you. Hope it continues to in the coming years(y).
Agree with the ease of installation regarding the Zeitronix ZT-4 set-up. Only challenge was figuring out a good spot to mount the controller.
 

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I put mine behind the radio like you did. BTW, I found out my car passed with a vacuum leak on the upper manifold. One of the small vacuum ports on the upper manifold vacuum tree wasn't capped off. I capped it off at home and had to reset the fuel injector low flow rate from 28.5 to 28.2.
I'm also on another thread where some guys (who don't have a EFI system yet:)) are trying to say that the Holley, Megasquirt systems are better than Pro-M because they are cheaper. I tried to show them how good the Pro-M system is but "they ain't hearin' it"! I'll just laugh my butt off while they struggle with those other systems. I made my money back yesterday at the emissions testing station. I can REALLY enjoy the car now. Next mission: Paint Job!

V/r, Jim T
 

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Yes, Sir. I used the gray and white wires on the 6-pin power signal connector. I used "left=drivers side", "right=passenger's side". The blue and purple wires were capped off with heat shrink. I used the default transfer function that is in the ZDL data logger software you download from the Zeitronix website. You put it in the Pro-M EFI UEGO sensor transfer function like this (see the picture). Or you could call Pro-M racing and have them do it. Mike Plummer actually put the screen shot of his transfer function earlier in this thread. In fact, it was easier to put in the transfer function than it was to write this reply ;).
Capture.JPG
The Zeitronix WBs don't need "free air" calibration either. In fact, I passed emissions testing with the WB sensors from the Innovate DLG-1 Controller kit that I took out and the car works just fine. If the car fails emissions at some later date, like if the sensors drift rich or lean), I will just replace the sensors just like I would if my car were OEM and failed. If I was a racer, I would just fork over the $3500 for an exhaust gas analyzer and deal with the ongoing cost of calibration of the sensors. Another alternative would be to bias my race tune to the "rich" side for safety. But I'm not a racer (yet) so I'm not going to worry about it.
 

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Perfect, that’s what I figured, I’ll have Chris help me with it, I want him to double check my tune for me before I fire the new engine to make sure I’ve got everything correct. Here’s a pic of how I re arranged my gauges, I’ve got all of my digital gauges together now above the radio, they were a little distracting on the dashboard before.
C9229110-90E8-4DBA-B787-5EDEBCCEF454.jpeg
C9229110-90E8-4DBA-B787-5EDEBCCEF454.jpeg
 

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I guess I would be frustrated too but codes P0150 along with P2197 means you have not programmed your Bank 2 Oxygen sensor CORRECTLY with the values from the Pro-M EFI manual. Code P2197 means (O2 Signal Stuck Lean Bank 2)

Error code E9. Is being displayed on your wideband gauge because your battery is low or the gauge is wired incorrectly. Hence the reason why it goes away when your car is running/moving because of the voltage to the gauge goes over 12vdc. Recheck your wiring.

I can't stress how IMPORTANT it is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and take your time when doing the installation and setting up your widebands.

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer

Thank you for the help

Car sits most of the time got a new battery Optima red top and rewired the innovate controller no more e9 ya! Made sure that the dlg1 is synced to the lc2 control like the directions tell you and then I free air calibrated the 02s. But now I'm still getting the p0150 bank 2 sensor 1 and a new one p2198 bank 2 sensor 1. Car ideals great when warming up once it gets warm I'll drive it a a mile and check engine light is on pull up to light car cuts off start it back up I have to feather the throttle to keep it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
Thank you for the help

Car sits most of the time got a new battery Optima red top and rewired the innovate controller no more e9 ya! Made sure that the dlg1 is synced to the lc2 control like the directions tell you and then I free air calibrated the 02s. But now I'm still getting the p0150 bank 2 sensor 1 and a new one p2198 bank 2 sensor 1. Car ideals great when warming up once it gets warm I'll drive it a a mile and check engine light is on pull up to light car cuts off start it back up I have to feather the throttle to keep it running.
Again,
Follow the instructions that came with your wide bands, and use “LM Programmer” to change the “Analog Out” parameters in the wideband controllers as follows:


  • 0.5v = 0.5 lambda
  • 4.5v = 1.5 lambda
Then click on the “Advanced” tab to change the values below.

  • 0.25 volts = warmup
  • 4.75 volts = fault
Save the changes in the wideband controllers. Remember to set up both wideband controllers!

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
 

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Again,
Follow the instructions that came with your wide bands, and use “LM Programmer” to change the “Analog Out” parameters in the wideband controllers as follows:


  • 0.5v = 0.5 lambda
  • 4.5v = 1.5 lambda
Then click on the “Advanced” tab to change the values below.

  • 0.25 volts = warmup
  • 4.75 volts = fault
Save the changes in the wideband controllers. Remember to set up both wideband controllers!

I hope this helps

Ive
So thank you im a dumb a$$! No more check engine light no more codes! went back and I was programming the controller wrong was going thru the dlg1 and not the lc2 like a dummy. I got both sides programmed.
Thanks for the help with these systems! You guys really help people like myself work thru the errors we make doing this stuff!
 

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If I may chime in...hopefully its on topic. With my Innovate experience on my 92 Supercharged LX. I started with using the MTX-L controllers for my Pro-M system. I was having a mass amount of interference come through the radio, PI fuel corrections up to 1.20+ at idle, E9 code only on the drivers side controller when cranking the engine and a few seconds into the engine running (controllers wired correctly, properly calibrated, battery voltage was fine, rewired them quite a few times to make sure.) The CEL would pop on when driving, codes for being stuck rich and lean were both listed, even replaced both of the wideband O2s a couple times. So I decided to test each wideband controller individually then both...along with the radio being turned on (to check for interference. You could hear the sweep of the gauges coming through and as the “afr readout” changed, it was strange.) With one wideband controller wired up, key on and radio on, the radio didn't pick up any interference and no E9 code. Did this process with the other one and same thing. But when both were wired up together, interference was in the radio and the E9 code came back on the drivers side. From that, I concluded to replace them. So I went with a pair Innovate MTX-L Plus. Updated version, should be okay right? I Thought my issues were behind me. Well, no more E9 error codes, fuel corrections were perfect for about a week until they went up to 1.15 at idle. Driving, I never really had an issue with the MTX-L Plus oddly enough. I Installed a spark box (didn’t have one, and was having spark issues.) The fuel corrections were finally down to 1.00-1.06 at idle and perfect while driving it seemed. Fast forward from last year (skipping some stuff) and experiencing a lot, lol.
I had a new engine built, switched over to CoP setup. When I started the engine for the 2nd heat cycle, the E9 code returned with the MTX-L Plus! And it was on...you guessed it...the drivers side controller. Same deal as with the MTX-L, during engine cranking to the first few seconds of run time. It’s like everything is starting to repeat for me. I checked over my wiring, grounds, etc. all looks perfect. I’m thinking Innovate wideband controllers are an issue. I was checking out Zeitronix as a replacement. I saw the Zt4 mentioned, but if I went that route I gotta find what gauge to put in the empty hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #176

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If I may chime in...hopefully its on topic. With my Innovate experience on my 92 Supercharged LX. I started with using the MTX-L controllers for my Pro-M system. I was having a mass amount of interference come through the radio, PI fuel corrections up to 1.20+ at idle, E9 code only on the drivers side controller when cranking the engine and a few seconds into the engine running (controllers wired correctly, properly calibrated, battery voltage was fine, rewired them quite a few times to make sure.) The CEL would pop on when driving, codes for being stuck rich and lean were both listed, even replaced both of the wideband O2s a couple times. So I decided to test each wideband controller individually then both...along with the radio being turned on (to check for interference. You could hear the sweep of the gauges coming through and as the “afr readout” changed, it was strange.) With one wideband controller wired up, key on and radio on, the radio didn't pick up any interference and no E9 code. Did this process with the other one and same thing. But when both were wired up together, interference was in the radio and the E9 code came back on the drivers side. From that, I concluded to replace them. So I went with a pair Innovate MTX-L Plus. Updated version, should be okay right? I Thought my issues were behind me. Well, no more E9 error codes, fuel corrections were perfect for about a week until they went up to 1.15 at idle. Driving, I never really had an issue with the MTX-L Plus oddly enough. I Installed a spark box (didn’t have one, and was having spark issues.) The fuel corrections were finally down to 1.00-1.06 at idle and perfect while driving it seemed. Fast forward from last year (skipping some stuff) and experiencing a lot, lol.
I had a new engine built, switched over to CoP setup. When I started the engine for the 2nd heat cycle, the E9 code returned with the MTX-L Plus! And it was on...you guessed it...the drivers side controller. Same deal as with the MTX-L, during engine cranking to the first few seconds of run time. It’s like everything is starting to repeat for me. I checked over my wiring, grounds, etc. all looks perfect. I’m thinking Innovate wideband controllers are an issue. I was checking out Zeitronix as a replacement. I saw the Zt4 mentioned, but if I went that route I gotta find what gauge to put in the empty hole.
The ZT-4 can be used with the ZR-4 display gauge: Zeitronix ZR-1 : SEMA Award Winning ZR-1 Wideband Air/Fuel and Lambda Gauge .
 
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