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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, I threw my stock rockers on my car today to see if it would quiet up my valvetrain since many people were thinking my FMS 1.6 rockers were causing my noisy valvetrain. Well I fired it up and heard tick-tick-tick...... I about kicked my door in I'm so MAD!!! I don't know if you guys realize this or not, but I have adjusted the rockers at a minimum of 30 times, and I kid you not! They were noisy last year when I had the stock lifters and pushrods in there, I adjusted preload by milling the pedestals down. This year I have replaced the lifters, the pedestals, I went with 6.300 length pushrods, and I have roughly 5/8th turn preload after zero lash. I adjusted them in firing order, and I did the intakes when the exaust began to open, and the exhaust when the intake began to close. I've checked to see if the pushrods were making contact with the heads... they are not. I checked to see if the valve retainer was hitting the rockers and they aren't. I also used an oil priming tool and visually made sure that the lifters had oil coming out the top of them. I'm running a felpro 1645 thick valve cover gasket and I beat my stock valve covers out for clearance to make sure they didn't hit. WHAT ELSE CAN I DO!?!?!? I was at whits end, now I want to break something!!!
 

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Don't SN95's have steel valve covers? If you can get your hands on some Fox style aluminum ones, they should help supress some noise. Also some cams are just noisier than others. The stock cam was designed to as quiet as possible. I doubt that was Ed's biggest concern when choosing your lobes. What does it sound like, 16 sewing machines?
 

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Are you sure its valve train then? Dont forget your basics, low on oil, or dirty and needs changing can go tick tick tick, too.
 

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Killercanary said:
I have adjusted the rockers at a minimum of 30 times,

I adjusted them in firing order, and I did the intakes when the exaust began to open, and the exhaust when the intake began to close.
Well bro, I hate to tell you, but you're going to have go for time 31 adjusting the preload.

You don't adjust the exhaust just when the intake starts to close, you adjust it when it is almost all the way closed.

Here's some more info for you... http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/425e.pdf

Good Luck
 

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I adjust mine by starting on #1 @tdc on the compression stroke, then I go in 1/4 turn increments using the firing order and do intake and exhaust at the same time on each cyl. After all 8 are done, one more 1/4 turn and I'm back to TDC.
 

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The way I am gonna adjust mine is rotate the engine till the rotor points to the #1 point on the cap, then adjust the valves, then rotate the engine to the next cyl in the firing order (#3) and adjust and kep going in the firing order. This way sounds easiest to me, but I never tired it yet. I have stud mt rockers though.
I adjust mine by starting on #1 @tdc on the compression stroke,
How do u know what stroke its on and does it matter? What do u think of my way?
 

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You've probably already checked this out, but, have you made sure that your header gaskets aren't burned out or leaking? A leaking header gasket can sound just like a ticking lifter.....


Just a thought.....

Also, I have stud mount rockers on my TFS heads and I adjust the rockers the long way. I do a 1/2 turn, snug the allen lock bolt, then do another 1/8 turn on the poly to ensure the rocker doesn;t back out. I start at #1 and do each cylinder one at a time. I wait for one of the valves to be fully open, then I adjust the other valve rocker since it's on the base circle at that point. Then I will turn the crank until the valve I just adjusted is fully open. Now the other rocker is on the base circle of the cam and can be set. I do that for each side going down in a line. It's the long way but it ensures that I don't miss any of the valves. :)
 

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Re: Re: Incureable valve noise- I've tried eveything, PLEASE HELP ME!

grn92conv said:
Well bro, I hate to tell you, but you're going to have go for time 31 adjusting the preload.

You don't adjust the exhaust just when the intake starts to close, you adjust it when it is almost all the way closed.

Here's some more info for you... http://64.90.9.168/cranecams/pdf/425e.pdf

Good Luck
It doesn't matter, the exhaust valve is well seated when the intake valve starts to close.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replys everyone. I have adjusted the rockers just about every way described above, but the way I did it last was the way I described above. I was told to do it this way by my dad's engine builder and Ed also said it was OK. Ed thought that it was my trunion(sp) bearings in my FMS pedestal mount 1.6's, so that is why I threw the stock rockers on, this way I could tell if it was the rockers or not, but it was even louder! My dad's engine builder is coming to my house this week sometime to go over the rockers with me, because at this point, no one has given me ideas as what to check. I have run heavier weight oil, and I currently have synthetic 10W30 in it. I changed the oil after the first heat up and cool down after the first reassembly this year, and its full too. I'm really hoping I can fix this as I lived with it last year, and to be honest it embarasses me when I pull in somewhere with my ticking like some old POS. Any more ideas?

It was said above about certain cams being noisy... what does that mean exactly, other than engine noise like lope?
 

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No, it just seems like some cams generate more valvetrain noise than others. Maybe it's that some cams tend to bring out any noisey parts more than others. The supposed reason the 89 and later stock cam was changed was to decrease valvetrain noise. I don't know if that means softer seating, more gentle over the top of the lobe or what. I'm working on a way to hopefully decrease valvetrain noise with my cobra rockers, I'll post results when I'm finished. Maybe you should stay tuned...

Billy
 

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Hey guys I had a couple of rockers ticking too. I just replaced the lifters and its much better but seems to still have one ticking. I have a 2031 cam w/1.7 rockers. I set the preloads with an indicator right above the pushrod on the rocker. . There pedastal mount so I shimmed them for .030 to .035 preload. I did a little expirimenting with the different methods for adjusting preload. It didn't make no difference which way I checked them the indicator bottomed out on zero. It seemed I could be anywhere close and it stayed right on zero. (I would think Different cam profiles have somthing to do with that) I did mine one cyclinder at a time at TDC the last time. One way to find the culprits is to pull the valve cover and start it up.(can get a little messy) and grab them one by one with your hand till you here the ticking go away. I think I'm going to try that because that one ticking bugs the **** out of me. Maybe make some sort of shroud to go around the head to keep the oil from getting all over. Just my 2 cents.
 
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