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I bought an 1989 lx with a t5 and 3.08 rear gears about a month ago, did all the maintenance on it now I want to get heads, cam, upper and lower intake, rear end gears, throttle body, injectors, and a maf. I just need help picking some parts that will work well together. I currently have a bone stock motor with BBk 1 5/8 long tubes and a BBk h pipe with high flow cats and flow master super 44 mufflers. Heads wise I'm really leaning toward the afr 165 or edelbrock performers. Cam wise I really like the sound of the Anderson n41 I was told that you would have to run 410 gears and being a street car and doing some occasional highway driving 65-75mph I don't know if that will work. Feel free to give any input, I need all the help I can get.

Thanks
-Beast
 

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Being a street car, I think the 4:10 gears would be a waste. They make 1st gear useless. I love my 3:55s, and wouldn't go any steeper than 3:73 with the T5.
 

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Assuming you're not planning a rebuild and that the engine is stock, stick with an inline valve head like AFR or Edelbrock.

Personally if I wanted a fun street car that I didn't plan on racing a lot, I'd look at a set of AFR-165 heads, a cam from someone like Ed Curtis (or if you want an out of the box cam, a B31 with 1.6 rockers or B21 with 1.7 works well in an N/A set up despite being called a "blower cam") and a Trick Flow Street intake (or equivalent). Couple that with some roller rockers, a gear swap and exhaust and you will have a fun street car.

I've found the best "compromise" gear for street cars to be 3.73's.......3.55's feel a little "laggy" and 4.10's are a bit too much.
 

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Thanks for your input I think I'll go with 3.73 what are they like at highway speeds?
Depending on rear tire size you will be turning 2100-2200 at 70 MPH.
 

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* depends *

The choice of components depends on whether you want to truly *go* fast or just bolt on a bunch of pretty stuff and *look* fast...

If you want a truly fast combination, I can do that.

If you want pretty, call Summit.


:salute:
 

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Ive got an '89LX, T5 car as well, and just did a complete top end. Im running the TW170 heads, TFS Stage 1 cam, TF 6.700" Pushrods, "GT40" (late model explore) intake, 1.6 RR, 70MM TB & EGR Spacer, 24lbs blue tops, C&L "Calibrated" MAF, Fuel Prssure Regulator, 255lph fuel pump, Pacesetter shorties & 3:73. While in there I replaced the lifters, timing chain, water pump and motor mounts. Timing is set at 12° and FP at 38.

You can read my post about the set up here in the same section, look for this title "Very Dissappointed after H/C/I install ". Now dont take my experience as the norm as it apparently isn't as Im sure you've read and will read in my and others post. Just be prepared that it may not be just slap on and go. Im in the process of rebuilding my tranny and should have it all back together over the weekend to do some more test and tuning.

Now onto some of your questions. All the above was done with the engine in the car. When installing the cam you'll need to free the A/C cooler and flip it to the passanger side of the car to get the cam in/out. Dont worry the lines are flexable. Also, id suggest replacing your fuel injector o-rings, unless your buying new injectors that come with them. Check piston to valve clearnce with your heads to be 100% sure you wont incounter any problems. Also check pushrod length. Some guys like to degree their cam, I did not. I set it at 0 and it runs and idles fine. Depending on your RR manufacturer you may have to trim out some of the "ribs" in the stock valve covers to get them to fit, I did. Dont forget the cost of gaskets, bolts, lube and the unexpected tools/items you may have to buy while doing the install.

I hate the 3:73 in the rear. Sure going around corners in 1st & 2nd its alot of fun throwing her around. However on the highway, it sucks!!! I like to keep up with the traffic, which is 70-80MPH in my area. At 70MPH Im running about 2700RPM. I dont mind the sound of the exhaust but running at that RPM for extended periods of time is not ideal in my mind. I will be installing 3:55 soon enough. After all, gearing higher is to make up for lack of HP. Once I get the car straightened out, I shouldnt have that problem.

At the end of the day, its a project and not my daily so Im having fun wrenching and learning. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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If you are running 2700 at 70mph in 5th gear with a T-5 you have more issues than your butt dyno needing calibration.


With any twisted valve (non-inline) head you stand a better than good chance of running in to P2V issues (assuming a stock short block).......for what you are trying to do (assuming I'm reading your post right) a smallish (165cc - 170cc) inline aluminum head would serve you well.

Yes you can get AFR 165cc heads in Pedestal mount or Stud mount, it really depends on what style of rocker arms you end up using. Again, if you're on a budget and just want to add some power to a "fun" street car, there is nothing in the world wrong with Pedestal mount rocker arms. The biggest and hardest decision you're going to have to make is camshaft choice.......you can go with an "off the shelf" cam, which will absolutely work just fine but will leave power on the table, or you can figure out which head and intake setup you want to run and get the basic engine information and car information to someone like Ed along with your head and intake choices and have him grind you one that will cost maybe a little more than off the shelf stuff but will make more power and likely have better driving manners as well.

Whatever you do, don't fall into the trap a lot of newer guys do and just assume you absolutely must spend more money and buy the top of the line, latest and greatest, gee whiz parts........they aren't needed for a fun street car and once you take things too far, either the street part of street car goes away, or the fun part does.

Edited to add: Yes a GT-40 would work fine with that set of heads....or a Cobra, Explorer, Edelbrock, Trickflow and I'm sure there are some I missed. Just stay away from "Race" and "Box" style stuff. When you look at the intake descriptions, you'll want to look at something that is effective in the 1500 -6000 range since you probably won't be turning a stocker much past 5500 or so anyway on a street car.
 

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Assuming you're not planning a rebuild and that the engine is stock, stick with an inline valve head like AFR or Edelbrock.
Assuming you're not planning a rebuild and that the engine is stock, go with a TW head so you can use more valve and clear the stock pistons. If you get a good induction, then you don't need a mile of duration (what causes PtoV) and you can also get a more street friendly cam that doesn't buck the crap out of you every time you slow down to turn a corner.
 

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Assuming you're not planning a rebuild and that the engine is stock, go with a TW head so you can use more valve and clear the stock pistons. If you get a good induction, then you don't need a mile of duration (what causes PtoV) and you can also get a more street friendly cam that doesn't buck the crap out of you every time you slow down to turn a corner.

In two separate cases I've seen Twisted Wedge heads have clearance issues on stock motors, one with an E-303 and one with a B-303.........so take that for what it's worth. So I suppose if you go with a small or even stock cam you could get away with them, but that defeats your stated purpose.
 

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In two separate cases I've seen Twisted Wedge heads have clearance issues on stock motors, one with an E-303 and one with a B-303.........so take that for what it's worth. So I suppose if you go with a small or even stock cam you could get away with them, but that defeats your stated purpose.
That's the exact opposite of why I WANTED the TW heads. More clearance. The rotated valve gives you this. This is why they're so popular for stock bottom ends.

My cam is MUCH bigger than either of those posted, and I had about 3 football fields of clearance.
 

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In two separate cases I've seen Twisted Wedge heads have clearance issues on stock motors, one with an E-303 and one with a B-303.........so take that for what it's worth. So I suppose if you go with a small or even stock cam you could get away with them, but that defeats your stated purpose.
There is clearly more to it than what you think, maybe milled a mile, maybe the cam was really advanced, maybe.... In ALL cases, with a 2.02 or bigger valve the TW has a mile more clearance.
 

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Thanks for your input I think I'll go with 3.73 what are they like at highway speeds?
Shtty, it feels like it needs one more gear. 70 ish will be right in the meat of the powerband. It will engine brake if you let off the gas. If you want to pass a car, no need to downshift to 4th, just give it a lil more gas. With 3.73's I'm in 2nd gear before I reach my mailbox at the end of the driveway and I'll be in 5th between stop lights. It's getting old.
 

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How much $ are we talking and how fast are you trying to go? Cash is king and you're only as fast as your wallet is thick. The typical $3k ish topend will get you somewhere between 270-300 rwhp with the 300 hp mark a little less common. The $3k ish typical suoercharger setup will be a little over 300 hp at the rear. Combine both and you'll be over 400 hp. The more power you make the more money and attention are required elsewhere on the vehicle such as suspension etc. If you think you'd be pleased with 300ish hp call summit and order either a tirck flow topend kit and all the accessories or call em and order a Vortech 6-8 lb boost kit.
Ps: the 300ish rwp on a street car would/should make a 12-13 sec 1/4 mi. You're running 14-15's now
 
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