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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing a custom cam and I have some questions. This is where I'm at:

Cylinder 1 is @ TDC of comp stroke.
Dot on original cam gear and crank gear are lined up.
I now take off both gears and install cam.

I have a new Ford Racing timing chain ready to go.
The specs for the cam can be seen here:
http://troyxtroy.stangnet.com/images/cam.jpg
Since my car weighs over 3200#, my recommended intake centerline should be 110* The lobe separation on my cam is 112*

Am I understanding correctly that my cam should be installed with 2* of advance?

So if I hold the timing chain with both gears sitting in the chain, lined up dot to dot and slid the gears onto the cam and crank, I would have just installed my cam straight up. Correct?

Now still holding the chain and gears in my hand dot to dot. If I want to advance the cam 2*, do I just turn the crank gear clockwise to the 2A keyhole? (Keep in mind that the gears are not yet installed. Engine is still @ TDC) This would force the cam gear to turn clockwise a little. So now when sliding on the gears, the crank gear is on the 2A keyhole and the cam has to be turned a little clockwise, so I can slide the cam gear on.

Is my cam now 2* advanced? Is my intake centerline at the 110* that I was shooting for?

Sorry so long.

Thanks for any help.

By the way, feel free to guide me through the distibutor install that comes next.

-Troy :confused:
 

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As far as I can tell everything you said is OK, but, your cam gear will stay in the same place and your crank is gonna have to move a bit to line up the dots. The dots will be lined up like they should but your keyway on your crank will be slightly offset. I personally think your doing it right.

After all this point your rotor at the #3 cylinder before you drop the distributor in. That way when it comes in contact with the gears on the cam and slides into place it will turn right to the #1 cylinder. It might not want to go all the way down, but just bump the engine over or turn it by hand and it should drop into place.

Hope this helps :)
 

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if your cam is custom ground why didnt they grind it so that you could install it with no advance or retard ?:confused:
 

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Back the truck up!

Dont confuse intake centerline with lobe separation! The two are not the same.

If you don't have the tools/experience to degree the cam, install it straight up. Most cams are ground with 4* advance in this position.

You don't rotate the crank to install the gear at 2* anyway, you positon the 2* keyway on the gear to the crank, slight adj. of the crank will be necessary to slide the gear on, but if you turn the crank to meet the 2* keyway as you're holding the gearset in the "straight up" position, you'll end up with a ridiculous amount of advance, ~ 16* per tooth!!!!!!!!
 

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i was under the impression that no advance was necessary with roller cams???? :confused:
 

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The cam was ground for a specific engine combo. The grinder told him on the card to advance it 2* if the car was over 3200 lbs and leave "straight up for a car below 3200. When you advance a cam the torque will start to climb and peak out a lower RPM to get the heavier car moving. And if the car is below 3200 it wont need the torque curve so low. On a heavier car 10ftlbs of torque at lower RPM is worth more than 10hp at higher RPMs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies.
Any other opinions?
-Troy
 

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get a degree wheel
 

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oh and make sure you have a magnetic dial indicator so you know tdc is exact
 

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Discussion Starter #10
M1fast87 As far as I can tell everything you said is OK, but, your cam gear will stay in the same place and your crank is gonna have to move a bit to line up the dots. The dots will be lined up like they should but your keyway on your crank will be slightly offset. I personally think your doing it right.
Exactly, I agree!


bigbaddbeau get a degree wheel
bigbaddbeau oh and make sure you have a magnetic dial indicator so you know tdc is exact
Got those! Now What?

Thanks
-Troy
 
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