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Discussion Starter #1
from my sig. what would you do next if you were me? i don't care if you say suspension, engine, or even just a looks mod, but i'm really just looking for more horse power for faster drag strip times. it has to still be able to corner and be streetable. i'm kinda thinking headers then alum drive shaft. i know i'm gonna get myself a convertor and valve body for christmas(i know its a long time away). right now i think i'll get the headers then the drive shaft then i'll try to save up some summer job money for heads. what do you guys think? i really want into the 13s before fun ford norwalk, but i don't think i'll have the $. i just ran a best of 14.37 @ 97.99MPH. what should i get next?
 

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Well... before I would suggest any additional mods, I'd look at your driving first- You don't post any 60 foot time information. That info would give us a bit more insight as to your level of skill in the way you drive your car at the dragstrip. If your 60 foot times were very good, then I'd suggest some new things to try out. However, if your launches leave room for improvement, my advice to you would be to not add anything, rather, make some adjustments in your technique to allow you to make the most of what you have now. With a 98 MPH trap speed and a 3550 Lb car, you should be able to run in the area of 13.85 with a good strong launch...
 

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to add: I think your TB is too big and is possibly hurting your low end torque numbers. Some will no doubt disagree, and that's cool, but my opinion is that a 65 will work better.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
first off its an auto so driving isn't really an issue. if i spin the DRs good enough it cuts 2.16s with no spin at all. the car generally weighs 3600. i agree that the throttle body is too big for the car right now. it ran the 14.37 with the stock throttle body in place. i'm saving the 70 for when i get some forced induction. i'm also thinking about getting some kenny brown subs and rear control arms and a strut tower brace. thanks for all the replies. keep um comming.
 

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Ok, well, I missed your weight by 50 lbs. :)
Also figured you have a manual trans.
2.1 60 foot times are so-so to be honest, even with an automatic.
I think you can do better then that if you set your mind to it, but that wasn't the focus of your questions I suppose...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i'm curious as to how to improve ones 60fts in an auto? i stall the convertor as high as it will go without spinning the tires at the line then gun it when i want to go. is there a better way? leaving from an idle isn't as consisitent and it also doesn't 60ft as well. please enlighten me.
 

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Try this... Air up your front tires to 55 PSI when at the track, this will reduce rolling resistance, which in turn may give you a little more room to hit the tires harder on launch. Experiment with the auto trans by trying to "flash" the converter, even a stock one, and see if you can't leave a little harder without spinning the tires. You may find another .10 in there. Dis-connect your front sway bar. (costs no money to do that) It might also give you a little harder launch. Rememebr- by stalling the converter, you aren't really getting any weight transfer, are you? You are binding up the suspension. If you learn to flash the converter and make use of the rocking motion that will happen wen you do this, you MAY see some improvement. It's worth trying, don't you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i thought that the convertor flashed when you just gunned it from a stop. how exactly do i get the convetor to flash? can you drive the car to the Track with the front swaybar disconnected? it's about 40 miles
 

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If you aren't going to do any hard cornering and drive carefully, you would probably be ok driving to the track, but it would be better not to do that if at all possible.
Regarding the converter issue, you can try to get the car to 60 foot better if you try what I have suggested- don't stall the converter, try to sidestep the brake and hit the gas but use a "touch" in your foot, don't just stab the pedal. You may apply a part throttle "hit" to get the car launched right and "roll on the throttle" as you pull away from the line. It may sound confusing, but you can do it. It would be easier to show you in person rather then try and explain it here...

Some other tips: When you get in line to race, try and follow behind some big-tired cars- cars with slicks or Et Streets, so that they will lay down a nice groove for you. In turn, AVOID getting in line behind a front-wheel drive car that may drag water to the line, or even a group of them that may do this. The track conditions will also make a difference. Talk to the more experienced racers at your track- walk the pits, ask questions. Most guys will be happy to help you if you approach them properly. Expereinced racers know which lane at a track is better for traction. AT GLD, it's the left lane. We run all the pro tree and clocks-off and rail dragsters during test and tune sessions in that lane, I have found over the years that I always hook much better in the left lane. Some guys never bother to learn these things and they wonder why they aren't doing as well as someone else who appears to have less power. FWIW, I've nearly ran 11's on pure street radials and have gone 11's on drag radials. I've taken the time to try many things and observe/learn as much as I can. Remeber that to know is to have power- keep learning, you'll end up doing better in the long run. And don't forget to share what you have learned with the new guys who come up behind you as time passes on.

Mt. Dew Red, Inc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i'll try flashing it nest weekend just to see what it does, but i tried that last year adn it didn't have the power to spin it even if i just put the pedal to the floor. i may or may not disconnect the front sway bar(depends on how lazy i feel).
 
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