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With your finger, you could put a thin layer of sealant along the China wall surface of the lower intake too. The two wet surfaces will help insure a good bond.
 

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Make your own intake studs with some longer bolts that are the same threads as the intake bolts so you can put them in the 4 corners of the heads and can slide the intake down into its position square straight and centered. Then once its down and into position unscrew the studs out and install intake bolts and torque down. Only need to thread the studs in a couple turns by hand.
 

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Better to have too much than too little. Also you’ve got to have a BUNCH around the water passages / corner there between head and block to really hurt flow. Possible sure but you’ve got to really want to do it imho.
 

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Make your own intake studs with some longer bolts that are the same threads as the intake bolts so you can put them in the 4 corners of the heads and can slide the intake down into its position square straight and centered. Then once its down and into position unscrew the studs out and install intake bolts and torque down. Only need to thread the studs in a couple turns by hand.
I believe he mentioned he did that above. And dropped it an inch unexpectedly, which could have set him a tad off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I made 4 alignment studs using hex bolts with the heads cut off. Alignment should be bang on but the lower dropping 1” (slipped) probably didn’t help. It was engaged on all 4 studs when it slipped so it landed straight which is why I didn’t remove it and start over. I’m almost convinced it’s the silicon end seals that are preventing a good seal around the water ports. My pressure test initially showed 0.5 psi drop after 1hr 40 min so the initial leak was less than a pin hole. Now it’s 1 psi after 22 min so it has gotten worse after 600 miles of driving.
 

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How many times do you go thru the torque sequence when bolting it down? I always go thru it a few times because it moves with the first sequence - I stop when there's no rotation of the bolts anymore at the torque spec.
 
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I initially torque in 3 steps as outlined in the Hayne’s manual. Then wait 24 hours to hit final torque again and fill with fluids. After driving it a couple of times, I pull the upper and hit final torque again. After that I don’t touch it.
 
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How many times do you go thru the torque sequence when bolting it down? I always go thru it a few times because it moves with the first sequence - I stop when there's no rotation of the bolts anymore at the torque spec.
If you use a torque wrench, it takes like 4-6 times before the torque evens out. The first time I did one I thought I had something wrong because of that.
 

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Wow I’ve never personally gone until torque evens out. Thanks for sharing. I might torque mine again after having a head off a year ago (removed broken lower intake bolt in rear against firewall naturally….)

I look forward to OPs next run at this. I think he will nail it with all this good advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Wow I’ve never personally gone until torque evens out. Thanks for sharing. I might torque mine again after having a head off a year ago (removed broken lower intake bolt in rear against firewall naturally….)

I look forward to OPs next run at this. I think he will nail it with all this good advice.
I hope you’re right! I’ve got a business trip coming up so I won’t be able to tear into it for another week. I’ll provide some pics once I have the lower off to see you if I can pin point the failure. I am going to stick with the MS93334 kit (steel core gasket) minus the blue end pieces of course.
 

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I used to do it once, then I heard about retorquing 20 yrs ago and after I installed the intake I checked the lower bolts and indeed found them all in various degrees of looseness! It’s REAL. I highly suggest checking them at least once after a few heat cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Update: Finally after 7 weeks of not looking at my car, rolled up my sleeves and pulled the lower intake off again. No real evidence of a coolant leak and those silicon end seals worked well to prevent any oil leaks out the front and back. As everyone suggested, did not use those end seals this time and went with Ultra Black (skim coat around water ports and a healthy bead front and back. After applying the RTV, waited ~5 minutes and with a friend, lowered the intake nice and slowly utilizing the 4 alignment studs. Waited another 20 minutes and went through the torque sequence. An hour later, torqued again and finally after 24 hours, torqued again (all the bolts didn't budge this last time). As you can see from the pic below, the RTV compressed nicely (bead was ~1/4-3/8" x ~1/4" high). I probably went a little overboard with the RTV but it was my first time applying it for this application so was a little nervous. I'll update again once I fire up the engine.

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Your leak problem is now GONE for sure. :cool:. Don’t forget to retorque after a few heat cycles of running the engine to normal op temps. Retorquing after initial install isn’t what I was referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Your leak problem is now GONE for sure. :cool:. Don’t forget to retorque after a few heat cycles of running the engine to normal op temps. Retorquing after initial install isn’t what I was referring to.
I hope you’re right! Yes for sure once I’ve driven the car a couple of times I intend to torque down the lower again one last time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Update: Finally got the engine together and added all the fluids. I had about a quart of oil left in the pan so after draining it to put the fresh stuff in, noticed copper floating around in small clumps (almost looks like copper antiseize). Spread it with my finger and sure enough flacks everywhere. Looks like this little bit of coolant in my oil has wiped out my bearings. When I started the engine this spring, it was running fine as usual. As I said in a previous post, rad was full of coolant and the overflow was down ~1/2". Damage was probably there from the first coolant leak.

So, I really can't afford a new/rebuilt engine and I don't have the ability or equipment to perform the work myself. Basically I'm going to fire it up now to check the work that I've done is good, replace the oil, go for a short drive, replace the oil and then put it up for sale giving full details on the issue. Breaks my heart to let it go this way as I've owned this car for 22 years and always maintained it dilligently. I feel like I failed...

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

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A lot of great information in this thread. Funny I’m having the same issue and I'm also from Ottawa. Need to start dismantling and purchasing gaskets.
 

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Been there done that got the merit badge myself Bestia. If like me, you may see a drop in your oil pressure.

I also could not afford a rebuild but I had my crank machined and new bearings sized. I and a buddy installed them. I don’t know if I should blame myself (most likely) or the machinist but i believe the bearings spun a month or so later at my first WOT test and it wiped out the block/ few rods/ couple pistons - it was bad. Very painful was that lesson.

I wish your situation ends far better than mine.
 
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