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Discussion Starter #1
What would I need to do to make the fan come on sooner? I dont want have to rely on the maual fan switch.
 

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chip, EEC Tuner, TwEECer, standalone Fan Controller from Pro-M.

Any of these will get you there.

I did the TwEECer R/T.

Shawn
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Shawn95GTRag said:
chip, EEC Tuner, TwEECer, standalone Fan Controller from Pro-M.

Any of these will get you there.

I did the TwEECer R/T.

Shawn

Which of these is the least expensive method and approx. how much is it?
 

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Saleen302 said:
Which of these is the least expensive method and approx. how much is it?
Chip: - cost varies. A cookie cutter chip should run $250 on up.
EEC Tuner: $389
TwEECer (base model): $380ish
TwEECer R/T: $550ish
Standalone fan controller from Pro-M: $267

If all you care about is the fan then the standalone controller would be the easiest way to go. This option will also let you adjust when the fan comes on.

In all reality there are plenty of other things wrong with the factory calibration so that is where the other options look good.

If you go with a chip it's a 1 time deal. You're stuck with the settings till you get a re-cal (usually another $100 each time or so). This option lets someone who is supposed to know what they are doing set it up for you.

With an EEC Tuner or TwEECer you can make changes yourself. The downside is you have to know what you are doing or at least learn a lot on short order. I went this route and I'm happy with my decision. I got the TwEECer R/T so that I can datalog and see why the car is doing what it's doing. I believe you can do this with the EEC Tuner too but I liked the TwEECer's interface better.

Here is what my scalar tab looks like on my current calibration:



Shawn
 

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Hayden fan controller from pep boys... $35
 

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mahstang said:
Hayden fan controller from pep boys... $35
This will work too but #1 is that a two speed controller? #2 that'll require a lot more wiring than the Pro-M unit as well as cutting up the harnes under the hood.

Cutting up the harness may not be such a bad thing as the 94-95 CCRM has such a rep for being a POS. The only problem I've had with my car is the factory plug burning up and not making a good ground connection.

Shawn
 

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You don't have to cut anything with it. You just use those plastic pieces that fold over the two wires and tap into the other wires. The factory system remains intact. There is a lot of wiring but the system is adjustable anywhere from like 160 - 230 or something. I bought one but haven't installed it yet so I dont know how convenient it is or anything.
 

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mahstang said:
You don't have to cut anything with it. You just use those plastic pieces that fold over the two wires and tap into the other wires. The factory system remains intact. There is a lot of wiring but the system is adjustable anywhere from like 160 - 230 or something. I bought one but haven't installed it yet so I dont know how convenient it is or anything.
You could make that work, and for the $$ it's probably worth it.

You could probably use the Pro-M fan controller's instructions (I have 'em on my website) or even Slantman's page to find which wires on the EEC trigger the fan then wire in relays or whater it takes to fire off the ground or hot signals to the wires. Then all you'd need to do is wire through the firewall for the temp sender and figure out where you're gonna mount it.

I was assuming you'd use the fan controller firewall forward and bypass the CCRM all together. This is what I had in mind when I said 'a lot more wiring'.

Shawn
 

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I got one of those Hayden adjustable fan controllers and need some help wiring it up properly. From the Hayden I've got the red going to the battery, black to ground, yellow to red/green on the CCRM, and orange to ?. I had orange going to the red/orange on the CCRM but that did work, in fact the low speed fan didn't work at all and my manual switch to turn on the high speed fan would blow the fuse on the Hayden....I have the switch for the high speed fan grounding out the lt greeen/purple wire from the CCRM. What wire should the orange go to on the CCRM? thanks,
 

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kpl said:
I got one of those Hayden adjustable fan controllers and need some help wiring it up properly. From the Hayden I've got the red going to the battery, black to ground, yellow to red/green on the CCRM, and orange to ?. I had orange going to the red/orange on the CCRM but that did work, in fact the low speed fan didn't work at all and my manual switch to turn on the high speed fan would blow the fuse on the Hayden....I have the switch for the high speed fan grounding out the lt greeen/purple wire from the CCRM. What wire should the orange go to on the CCRM? thanks,
Are you hooking up the hayden controller so that it activates the CCRM or bypassing it all together? Assuming you're bypassing the CCRM you are having the Hayden controler run relays that switch the high current load, right?

Orange / lt. Blue is the high current high speed fan.

The Red/Orange wire is the high current low speed fan wire.

I think the low speed fan is a positive trigger via the Dark Blue wire. You could PM Slantman to find out for sure. This is his website detailing a manual switch hookup:

http://bellsouthpwp.net/s/l/slantman/COOLING.htm

From his diagram I can't tell if he pulled power to light the switch or feed the circuit. I'm pretty sure it's for both.

You could use his manual switch diagrams to wire up your hayden controller to run the CCRM like the Pro-M controller does.

Shawn
 

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that's the same diagram that I'm looking at in the Haynes manual. I'm not familiar with how the ProM installs. I'll do a search and see what I can find. Anyone do this Hayden install?
 
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