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Discussion Starter #1
My combo is in the sig, I don't have the money now, but when I get it I was thinking about giving Ed Curtis a call, do you think it would be worth it to go with a custom cam over what I have? Also, any other recommendations on what I could do to get the most out of my combo? Thanks.
 

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With a custom of similar size, drivability will increase.
The biggest difference in power will be in the midrange....AVG power throughout the entire powerband will be significantly higher.
& you could always go larger.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
& you could always go larger.
Do you really think I need a larger cam, I think the TFS stage 2 is pretty big, I was thinking if I went custom it would probably be pretty similar, thats why I'm not sure if it would be worth it. But lately alot of people have been praising Ed Curtis and it has me thinking I could do better. Any more opinions, thanks.
 

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There is a lot of power to be had in the shape of the cam lobe.
Similar advertised duration doesn't mean much. Ed (or any of the cam guru's) could make you a cam that's smaller then the TFS 2 & make significantly more power.
Everybody spouts off .050 duration #'s & total lift....well, that's just part of the cam story. The real power is @.200 lift....that's were our heads REALLY start to flow! Another thing to take into consideration is proper valve events.....helps midrange torque & drivability....somehow I doubt the TFS 2 cam is optimizing your combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Eric do you have any track times or dyno numbers from the 331?
I had a cobra intake and 24# injectors, and I ran it on street tires in 100 degree, 100 percent humidity. I was able to manage a best of 13.2 at 109.1. Thats the only numbers I have on it.
 

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I see no reason why you shouldn't be running 115MPH + in the 1/4.
What ICL is the TFS stage 2 installed on? Don't tell me dot-to-dot....
 

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I see no reason why you shouldn't be running 115MPH + in the 1/4. What ICL is the TFS stage 2 installed on? Don't tell me dot-to-dot....
I didn't actually install the cam myself, I might go talk to the guy who built my engine tomorrow and find out, what should I as him, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ask him if he Degreed the cam. & if so, what Intake Centerline he installed it on.
Will do, thanks. If it isn't degreed, how easy is it to do so? I don't see any reason why it wouldn't be done correctly though, the builder has alot of high performance experience with strokers/etc. Another reason why I'm not running 115+ could be my driving and I only ran one day and I had the cobra intake on at that time, it is definitely a little faster now. I will ask him though, thanks.
 

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Basic stuff needed to degree a cam is a degree wheel & a dial indicator.
All you are doing is verifying that the cam is installed as it was designed to be.
EI, the valve events @.006 or .050 match the card & what you find with the degree wheel.
All you do is TDC one cylinder (normally the #1). Pull off the roller rockers for that cylinder. Set up the dial indicator to read camshaft lift & slowing turn the motor over, reading the dial indicator. When it reaches .006, or .050 (whatever you're using on the cam card) note the degree on the wheel. If it's a few degrees off, the cam was not installed on the correct intake centerline & should be moved. Your builder should know exactly how to do this.

Another thing to take into consideration is that most off-shelf cams come advanced which may or may not be a good thing with a particular motor. If your builder is HIGHLY knowledgable, he will be able to figure out what ICL is best for your setup.
(I do this all the time :p)

A 9-position timing chain will be neccissary to move the cam within 1 degree of were you want it. Ed C. sells VERY nice RollMaster 9-position chains for ~$90. You can also use the FMS 9-position that is available from Summit for ~$75.
 
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