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FastGT94 said:
can you use loc tight on aluminum heads?
Not sure but

I don't want that white corrosive junk that appears and wrecks out your threads when different kinds of metal like Aluminum parts & steel bolts are used together.

Every steel bolt, plug, etc that I put in Aluminum gets anti seize.

Later
Grady
 

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Wow, those self locking bolts are very cool. I assume they work well if you are posting about them... but how do you like em? I was going to use some LocTight... but these bolts look like a better option.
I like them plenty. They're only $10-20 more than the Stage 8s....I don't have a ton of miles on them as I just got the car running again, but as you can see from the design they are NOT going to come loose. Neat product.
 

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midnightrider said:
Round track racers use a dab of silicone bridged between edge of bolt & header and swear by it..I use the stage 8, but they r a major PITA 2 install or remove......
Could you elaborate on the silicone idea? Do they just coat the last 1/4 inch of the bolt to the head of the bolt or what?
 

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I plan to use the ARP bolts with a little high temp loc tight but I'm worried about using that stuff on aluminum heads. I may just use a little rtv on the bolts instead.
 

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SilverSmith82 said:
Can you post a link of a number, I'm doing FMS shorties in a few weeks. Thanks.
You can find them without all the confusion of a part # HERE.
 

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Phantom5oh said:
I used the ARP header bolts on 3 different cars and have't had one loosen up on my yet.
EXACTLY!

I used their SS set on my prior 90 LX 5.0 coupe and never had a single issue with them backing out or coming loose - plus they are 12 points, NOT the big ass 6 points... It's easier getting a 12 point wrench on the end of the ARP bolts, because you have more flexibility with getting the right angle needed for turning the wrench.

You can get them at Maximum Motorosports (see link in my sig) for $37 for 16 of them. Excellent choice in header bolts.

I don't know about those using the Stage 8's - but it sounds like those bolts do the trick BUT they are extrememly hard to work with when installing OR removing. If you are one to work on your car alot or one who tries different combos and such, the last frustrating thing you need to deal with is trying to remove ANY bolts that are a PIA to remove or install again...

I'd go with the ARP's can't beat'em for the quality and price... easy to install easy to remove (if needing to remove).
 

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Tighten the header bolts down snug as you realistically can. Take the car out, let it get hot, put it in the garage. Once the headers/heads cool down, tighten them down again. If you don't do that, you'll have the thermal expansion etc and you'll never actually "torque" the bolt correctly, it'll just basically be tight momentarily and then loose from that day on until you tighten it after a heat cycle.
 

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Bolts like header bolts stay locked tight because of tension loading. The boat either compresses something elastic or stretches enough to keep preload on the bolt. The preload distortion and friction prevents it from turning.

If a header bolt is coming loose either something in the bolt clamping stack, like a gasket, is yielding and the bolt is going to zero tension as it shakes around. The stack the bolt is compressing gets shorter. Then it can rattle out.

The other cause is something is the bolt itself is stretching or the threads are pulling out.

Either you have soft gaskets compressing and letting the stack get shorter which removes tension, or the bolt or threads are yielding and not staying in the elastic area that maintains tension.

The only times in my life I have had header bolt issues was running thick soft gaskets. I'm sure some bolts are junk, but I've never run into that.

I have had a 40 pound turbo hanging off my header and never once had a bolt loosen, and I never used anything special for hardware or glue. As a matter of fact I coat ALL of my threaded things going into aluminum with anti-seize lubricant (just like I do lug nuts that get repeatedly changed). I never have and never will use a lock washer or thread glue on header bolts and I never every have a problem unless I use a weak gasket.

My headers get red hot in a pass and have 40-50 psi exhaust pressure and the bolts never come loose. I don't care what fastener I use, Cal Custom, Auto Zone, or fancy pants ARP. I do make sure my flanges are flat and I never use gaskets other than a special high temperature RTV.
 

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I got headers put on my car, like a year ago when I had an engine rebuild, since then I get an exhaust leak about every 2 weeks, and have to tighten and even replace missing bolts, and MAN those things are hard to get to. How do you keep them tight ? can you put some sorta loctite on them ?? Anyone have any suggestions ?
On 94-95 cars, If you installed aftermarket H/X pipe without hangers at mid section, that's the problem. you need to use the factory hanger bracket which is part of transmission mount bracket.
 

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I bought the Stage 8 bolts which have quality hardware, but the clips were a PITA. I now use the Stage 8 bolts with lock washers. I'd just buy the 12 point ARP bolts mentioned by Phantom5oh next time around. Edit: I give the lock washers full credit for keeping the bolts in. Stage 8 bolts alone (no clips) backed out.
 

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I think sometimes the gaskets expands and contracts causing the bolts to loosen. I used the factory style graphite gasket on mine and have not had problems with the bolts loosening.
 
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