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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys there seems to be a lot of good info here and I have looked at some threads already, but figured maybe someone could give some specific info I’m looking for. I’ll list the car info and then my questions.

Car: 1992 Muatang
Engine: 302 SBF (stock long block except cam and rockers)
Cam: E303 cam w/ crane 1.7 rockers
Power adder: ON3 single turbo
Injectors: Siemens 60’s
Fuel pump: aeromotive stealth 340

if more specific info is needed, let me know. This is my buddies car and we are just about done with it to do the test drive for learning the X. Here’s my question

how do you set base timing?

I know the base timing in the Holley ECU is set to 10 degrees, but I need to set the car back to 10 degree base (we pulled the distributor out of the car during our work). So now the distributor needs to be set back to base 10 degrees. Any info on how to get the car back to 10 degrees is greatly appreciated.

P.S. we did get the car running by giving it a little gas (pressing gas pedal a little) but it seems to have a hard starting issue and I think it’s related to base timing being wrong. Thanks guys!!
 

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What I did was mark the balancer for whatever you have the cranking timing in the holley set for. Disconnect the injector harness so the car won't start, have someone crank the car while you verify the timing with the light. Twist the distributer to align and lock it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Grn92LX- is it really that easy to set base timing?

I think the factory setting is 10 degrees from Holley when you first power the system on. If this is accurate, I will set the base timing on the distributor to 10 degrees as well. Then I’ll adjust IAC and throttle position for easier starting. Thanks for the info
 

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I'm not an expert but went through this recently. If the distributors has been out, you can get it close by pulling #1 cylinder spark plug and turning the motor by hand until on the compression stroke and just before TDC on the balancer and instal the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1. This will probably get you close enough to start it, you may need to have someone turn it over and adjust distributor by hand. Once you can get it running, temporarily disable the "Idle Spark" control in Idle Settings. The software default on mine was 10° as the timing reference angle. Check with timing light and turn the distributor to synchronize the initial (idle) timing, then lock it down.

Now use "Enable Static Timing Set" to lock the timing at whatever you command and verify with a timing light. I used a few static timing values of 20°, 25° and 30° to make sure the timing I saw on the light moved with whatever I static set it to. Last, momentarily rev the engine, and watch the timing advance with your timing light. It shouldn't move. If timing advances or retards, adjust the "Inductive Delay" until the timing maintains itself. If the ignition timing retards, increase this value. If the timing advances, decrease this value. That insures at higher rpm, the timing is still reading where it is tuned for and not fluctuating.

Once running and timing verified, you may ned to spent some time dialling in the throttle blade back and forth with tps auto-sets in between to get the IAC to read in the range where it should at hot idle.

As a side note, one thing as far as idle that I had overlooked and fought for a while before figuring out was that the fox body kit has the correct plug and wiring for the Ford pwm style IAC but it does require using and assigning an output. The harness is already wired and pinned for B3 output#4 on the J1 connector but I had to select Ford IAC in the settings and then assign (drag and drop) the iac pwm to output #4. I also set the hz frequency to 315. I had originally overlooked this step and couldn't get the IAC to do what I was trying to do and it would want to stall when coming to a stop as I put the clutch in because the iac wasn't "parked properly" and wouldn't catch the rpm's as they fell. I also had to give it a little throttle as I tried starting it to get it to go. It was a big breakthrough once I figured that piece out and it starts great cold and hot with out touching the throttle and holds idle nice when putting in the clutch coming to a stop.
 

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Grn92LX- is it really that easy to set base timing?

I think the factory setting is 10 degrees from Holley when you first power the system on. If this is accurate, I will set the base timing on the distributor to 10 degrees as well. Then I’ll adjust IAC and throttle position for easier starting. Thanks for the info
I was recently having problems getting my car to start so that way of syncing the timing was my only option.

BNF, I set the iac to Ford 5.0L in the handheld. I did not know you had to do all of that? So that means you need a laptop to do all that. I finally got my car running. Problem was a draw on the battery draining it and not enough cranking power/rpm's to start the car. Seems good now but haven't driven it yet. I do have to hold the pedal down to start it then it'll eventually idle fine just a little high.
 

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BNF, I set the iac to Ford 5.0L in the handheld. I did not know you had to do all of that? So that means you need a laptop to do all that. I finally got my car running. Problem was a draw on the battery draining it and not enough cranking power/rpm's to start the car. Seems good now but haven't driven it yet. I do have to hold the pedal down to start it then it'll eventually idle fine just a little high.
Unless I missed something in the wizard (I very well may of) my startup wizard tune had chev stepper style iac as default. I switched it to ford pwm on the handheld but couldn’t find a way to assign the input on the handheld and had to change it on the Terminator X software on my laptop.

Prior to realizing my oversight and assigning the output properly I had mine running good but has essentially tuned the iac out. I had to give it throttle to start and it did idle a bit higher than I wanted. Once I got it straightened out, it cold and warm starts without touching the throttle and I was able to drop my target idle down too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update: we spent the day going over everything I I found the base of the distributor was VERY dirty and I wasn’t getting a good ground through the housing. I removed the dizzy again and fully cleaned the area, cleaned the base of the dizzy and the hold down. I re-installed the distributor and set it to point at number 1 and had number 1 at TDC. adjusted the throttle position and did a TPS relearn again. I plugged in the injectors and the car fired right up. I was able to set my idle around 850 on the laptop and my IAC is around 14% plus I did the “idle spark” disable and I set the base distributor timing at 10 degrees which matches the 10 degrees in the ECU setup. The car fires right up and idles very nicely. This is where we ran into another issue

we put the front tires on it to get ready for a test drive for learning the ECU, however when we tried to push the clutch, we found the cable was melted. This car has run for a total of maybe 1 hour (that’s being a little generous as well). This cable is a brand new one from American muscle. it was also wrapped in heat shield wrapping as well. Also the turbo kit is wrapped. So now my question is, has anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you fix it and do you have any pics? Thanks again for all the help and support guys!!
 

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Unless I missed something in the wizard (I very well may of) my startup wizard tune had chev stepper style iac as default. I switched it to ford pwm on the handheld but couldn’t find a way to assign the input on the handheld and had to change it on the Terminator X software on my laptop.

Prior to realizing my oversight and assigning the output properly I had mine running good but has essentially tuned the iac out. I had to give it throttle to start and it did idle a bit higher than I wanted. Once I got it straightened out, it cold and warm starts without touching the throttle and I was able to drop my target idle down too.
Any recommendations on a cheap windows laptop? I just ordered the adapter cable. I'll fix the iac stuff as you recommended and I can input the proper injectors into the software that the handheld doesn't have. I have ford 42's and the handheld only goes up to 30's (should have all the ford injectors listed) so I used holley 42's on the handheld for now.
 

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Great info here, guys, I'm bookmarking this one for later when I get my own Term X install underway.

we put the front tires on it to get ready for a test drive for learning the ECU, however when we tried to push the clutch, we found the cable was melted. This car has run for a total of maybe 1 hour (that’s being a little generous as well). This cable is a brand new one from American muscle. it was also wrapped in heat shield wrapping as well. Also the turbo kit is wrapped. So now my question is, has anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you fix it and do you have any pics? Thanks again for all the help and support guys!!
You might want to post up in the Turbochargers forum to see if anyone there can help. Quite a few folks running On3 setups that post there regularly.
 

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I was recently having problems getting my car to start so that way of syncing the timing was my only option.

BNF, I set the iac to Ford 5.0L in the handheld. I did not know you had to do all of that? So that means you need a laptop to do all that. I finally got my car running. Problem was a draw on the battery draining it and not enough cranking power/rpm's to start the car. Seems good now but haven't driven it yet. I do have to hold the pedal down to start it then it'll eventually idle fine just a little high.
Yeah, unfortunately if the IAC output is unassigned you WILL absolutely need a laptop to rectify this. Which is unfortunate as a lot of guys think just the bits with the kit will suffice. While I cant say for certain, I would never disgrace myself enough to F with some ls(lame ****) trash, it appear Holley is preoccupied with tonguing the bum of a bunch of losers the government had to bail out. IMO
Anyway, its a shame they rope a brother in then zing, you need more ****. Holley, if youre listening(pftftftf! Yeah right) this is an epic oversight. But whuda I kno, jus a EE dropout(fuk livin behind a desk) bending wire fer a livin. 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳
 

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I always felt like if anyone was going to an aftermarket ECU a laptop is a requirement. For all my cars I do with Holley, I build them a base tune on my laptop before ever firing one up. The Holley base tunes are sketchy if you are not naturally aspirated.
 
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