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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a stick car that has been converted to carb.

Is there some kind of adapter that will let me use my stock speedo cable and one of there mechanical or electric speedometers?

Is there something I can put inplace of the VSS sensor and loose the speedometer cable altogether? I think there is a wire coming off the VSS, can i use that?

I am trying to replicate what florida50.com does, without having to pay there prices.

I already have the stock dash guages out of the car. Everything else should be simple other than the speedo.

I am using the silver face ultra-lite autometer series.

Woops, also what parts do I need to use one of their fuel guages in my car? Will it work with the Ford sender?
 

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I recently did a custom install myself. I got the "shell" from Florida 5.0, and had them cut two holes for the Tach & Speedo - all of my other gauges are on the A-pillar and in the vents. I got the mechanical speedo from AutoMeter, and had a speedometer shop splice the required adapter to the end of my existing cable (I removed the cable and mailed it to them - Powl's Speedo somewhere in PA). At the same time, I had them splice in a speedo correction box to correct my speedo for the 4.10 gears). I spent about $80 on the speedo, and about $80 on the cable mods so $160 total. Versus the electronic speedo which costs about $150 if I remember correctly, and you need a $50 speed sensor adapter. Not sure about those costs, but it was cheaper to go the mechanical route.

As for wiring the cluster, that was quite an experience. The Fuel Gauge will work fine if you connect it to the output of the anti-slosh module (part of the small printed circuit board snapped into the baqck of the original cluster). You will need to identify the various connections to the module (like power, ground, switched power, and the input/output signals). Then, just make sure to get the AutoMeter gauge rated at the Ford resistance.

I wanted to keep some of my idiot lights too, so I used 12V LEDs. They worked out fine, but you need to be careful with the polarity, certain ones get a +12v signal to turn on, while others get a ground signal to turn on - very fun.

And one last gotcha, there is a resistor on the back of the cluster (580 ohms rings a bell), that goes across the idiot light for the Alternator. I left this out when I did my install, as I have a AutoMeter Voltmeter and didn't see any need for the idiot light. Well, after a few days, my voltmeter was going down from 13V, 12V, 11V, until it hit 8V and my fuel pump wouldn't run and the car died. Apparently, that little resistor tells your alternator to charge the battery, without it, the battery is never getting a charge. I spliced the resistor across the original leads and all was well.

I can take some photos if you want - I am not sure how to upload them, so if you want I can email them to you.

Good luck with the project, it was actually fun putting it all together as I could take my time (since this is not my daily driver).

Actually, I have a crummy photo under User's Rides on Mustangworks (RED92LX50), it was very dark in the gargage, but the flash photo came out worse! I think the install turned out great, and I really like the new gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanx for the reply. Awesome info.

Questions.....

1. Isn't there a way around that alternator resitor depending on how your alternator is wired to your battery?

2. I was told the autometer fual guage part number atm-4318 (16-158 ohms) was the correct guage for ford.

3. I am using the stock plastic guage holder (white), and custom fabbing my own plastic panel to put the guages in. I am going to try and keep the stock white plastic with circuit board, so i don't have to reinvent the wheel when it comes to turn signal rewiring.

4. Did you retain the stock ford circuit board/paper? If not, how did you keep the output of the anti-slosh module?

Please email any photos you have to [email protected]. They would surely help, especially the alternator resistor.
 

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I didn't realize you were keeping the stock cluster, and trying to insert the mechanical gauges - I considered this approach, and it looked like alot of work, and I wasn't sure it would end up looking right. Actually, before replacing my cluster, I put on white-face overlays, and blacked out the side gauges, so all you could see were the tach & speedo. It looked really nice (I can send a photo of that too) - but I wanted all my gauges to match, and the stock tach has a bad reputation for accuracy.

When I put in the white-face overlays, I hooked up my fuel level gauge to the posts which fed the stock gauge. I actually gutted the stock metal "can" and soldered directly to it. This way, the signal is already being passed through the anti-slosh module, so it is a very easy hookup.


1. I am not sure, but I read about several people that have done custom dashes having the same problem, and splicing the resistor back in fixed their charging problems too. If you are keeping the stock cluster this wont be a problem.

2. I think the 158ohms sounds correct.

3. Should make the wiring a breeze, but the fabrication/mounting should be interesting.

4. I replaced everything, you can push a clip on the back of the cluster to release the pc board, then solder wires to the pc board connections to make the +12v, -12v, switched 12v, fuel sender IN, anti-slosh OUT connections (at least I think those were the connections). The anti-slosh module does not need to be in the cluster to work properly.
 
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