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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Anyone have the limit specs on the rear main/flywheel flange diameter? I don't see it listed in my service manual. The crank has been ground before and one of the main reasons the engine came out was to fix the rear main seal leak that I haven't been able to solve.

It appears that that flange has also been polished to maybe take out a groove from prior seals. The new seals fit very loose over the flange. So I need to determine if I need to look for a new crank. I'm not interested in using a repair sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
What valve covers are you guys running that will clear stud mount rockers and the GT40 intake?
 

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I clearanced the internal casting bracing in my stock valve covers for my stud mount rockers aa well as removing the oil fill baffle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
You are talking about the factory aluminum fox valve covers? Since mine is a cobra I have the stamped steel covers and they are a long ways from fitting. Using factory ones would be great since I want to keep the oil fill tube and I don't want to have to run an intake spacer with taller covers.
 

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You are talking about the factory aluminum fox valve covers? Since mine is a cobra I have the stamped steel covers and they are a long ways from fitting. Using factory ones would be great since I want to keep the oil fill tube and I don't want to have to run an intake spacer with taller covers.
Yes, the stock aluminum 5.0 valve covers........
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I'm having a hard time finding a pushrod length that provides a nice narrow pattern on the valve tip. Any recommendations or should I look at buying different rockers?

AFR165 Heads
XE266 Cam
Comp Cast Aluminum Stud Mount Rockers 1.6
FEL-8548PT2 Head Gasket .047" Compressed Thickness
Hydraulic Lifters converted to solid for measuring
Unknown deck height, I didn't have block decked. It is a new-to-me used block


Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Circle
 

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What strokeme said. My rockers are modified just like this.
 
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
The engine is back in the car and final bits are going back together when I notice my distributor shaft is seized and locked solid. This surprised me since it looks to be a newer distributor and luckily I didn’t have any problems with it the last 5 years.

The pads on the bottom where it meets the collar are also worn completely off (pictured) which makes me think it was installed with incorrect clearance originally (not me). Metal Lamp Auto part Nickel Machine


Ordered a new reman distributor (motorcraft housing) and got it in. Tapped the shaft down to move the collar on the driveshaft down so the housing sits on the block.

If I hold the shaft down I can lift the housing showing I have clearance there. But if I hold the housing down I cannot move the shaft up at all. Yes, the cam is there so the shaft would have to rotate as it came up.

This has me worried that the collar is riding up on the bottom of the aluminum housing like the last distributor.

My gut is telling me the engine needs to come back out to check everything properly and likely
the driveshaft needs to be shortened some since it is pushing the distributor shaft up too much.

FYI: the old engine had a stock driveshaft and I am now using an ARP.

Do you agree?
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Ok, maybe if the gear is sitting too low (which it is!) then the bottom of it sitting on the pad in the block will push the shaft up overall, creating the same problem.
 

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stop with this reman stuff. contact prestige mustang or mps salvage and get a clean oem one with oem guts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Well, with the gear aligned with the furthest hole, almost in the chamfer of the gear, it only brought in the measurement to 4.068”. Do I dig into rebuilding this new distributor or has anyone shimmed up the housing? What the heck.
Cylinder Gas Nickel Pipe Plumbing fitting
 
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