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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Occasioinally, I would get this rpm dependent whistling from the passengers side head on startup that would go away. Now this pulsing whistling increases with rpm upto 3000 rpm then goes away at higher RPM's but is constant while driving. Kinda sounds like a slipping belt but upon listening with a stethoscope it's got a stronger grinding sound from this head than the other.

I'm thinking I need to have the heads reworked. And while they have the engine out that I should do the whole engine since I've alrealy got about 115K miles on the Odo and would like to eventually SC this damn thing. I have no problems with the bottom end and no oil consumption issues. So far the engine has never been cracked and is completely stock, only bolt-ons thus far.

NEED IDEAS on what this may be / INPUT on what the best options are / and INFO on GOOD DOHC SHOPS in my area

would like to have a fully prepped long-block but this seems to be a bit pricey costing about $8000 nowadays with a core exchange. what are my options and what are the costs??? was thinking that $5K would be enough but it doesn't look that way anymore. . . . .

I'm in the Philadelphia, PA area and don't mind driving a bit, but don't want a shop that will keep my car in the lot for months b/c their 'race cars' need the shop time. . . . .


Thanks for any assistance you can offer

Scott
 

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Locally, I recommend Kauffman Motorsports

T&J Performance in Atlanta if you're sending the motor out
 

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Hensler Racing in Columbus. He'll come pick your car up, and is a great mechanic.
 

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Al (boss330 here on corral) is an expert engine builder also -- you might want to check and see how backed up he is. He will tell it to you straight as far as how long, how much etc...

http://www.boss330racing.com

772-633-7660 phone

PM: Boss330

I'm sure they all will do a great job but some might be busier than others right now.. I would check them all out and see which one fits your schedule the best!!
 

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BoostedToy said:
I'll third that.
2nd street is in your neck of the woods and have built Rob Hnats motors. Jim Larocca isn't that far away as well that could do the job, not sure how backed up he is, and I highly recommend Lideo at Alternative Auto in Michigan if your willing to drive.
 

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My engine is in the final steps at Hensler Racing. I think you might have been trying to help out Scott Kim. Thanks though.
 

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Also forgot Randy Haywood at Haywood racing.

If your going to do the install yourself I recommend the following engine builders (in no particular order they are all good)

1. SHM
2. VT Engines
3. DSS
4. Haywood racing.
5. Modular Performance
6. Alternative Auto
7. Houston Performance
 

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ANYBODY HAD A SHORTBLOCK DONE BY KAUFFMAN MOTORSPORTS, GETTING READY TO PULL MYNE OUT SOON AND TAKE IT DOWN TO DAVE FOR FORGED INTERNALS. ANYONE CHIME ON IN HERE.
 

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Houston Performance did my work and Im very happy with the customer service and product I got from them.
 

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shawnsvtcobra said:
ANYBODY HAD A SHORTBLOCK DONE BY KAUFFMAN MOTORSPORTS, GETTING READY TO PULL MYNE OUT SOON AND TAKE IT DOWN TO DAVE FOR FORGED INTERNALS. ANYONE CHIME ON IN HERE.
I never had anything built by them, but every other aspect of their business is TOP NOTCH, so I gather that building would be in the same class.
 

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Dave is a top notch guy and does great work. Also JD's auto and performance is very close to you in Huntingdon and they also do great work.

Ashley
 

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I took my cobra down to kauffmans when they had the first shop they started in , and then took it down again to the shop they recentley moved into, Dave is one hell of a nice person, and went well out of his way to make me happy, and work on my car to his liking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks to: (riored1997GT, fourcam322, 99svt32V, streetracer, mnypit, boostedtoy, Dave King, shawnSVTcobra, aprather, cammin'4.6, VTengine) for all the replies with info.

NEXT QUESTION: What I'm looking for is a 4.6 with the ability to put down a durable SUPERCHARGED~550rwhp. What kind of $$$ am I looking at to have the whole Long Block prepped for this??? NOT INCLUDING SC-FOR THE ENGINE ONLY - including intake and head workup, forged rods and pistions, and of course all bearings and wearable engine items. . . . i'll consider the driveline adjustments at a later date as I want to take it one bite at a time :) this is probably gonna be one big bite to begin with. . . .

what kinda "dent" in my checking account am I looking at???
 

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All prices are estimations, but should serve as a decent guide. These are retail prices for NIB items:

Forged rods: $500-550 (800hp) or Billets $1200-1450 (1200+HP)

Forged pistons: $550-800

ARP longblock hardware: $400

Billet oil pump gears: $300

Bearings/rings: $300

Gaskets: ?

Balance: $300

RR motor: $2000

P&P (stage II) heads w/ new guides, seals, assembly: $1500

P&P stock 99 intake $250-500

Hensler built a 534rwhp/499rwtq 01 Cobra with stock unported heads (complete with stock cams), forged custom pistons/rods, and a stock untouched intake--full exhaust, nothing special. Boost was only 12psi out of an ATI D1, and it was on pump gas!

Remember, "durable" is a relative term at 550rwhp.
 
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